Model 60 - no dash - birth date? value?

[sw6866]

I inherited a S&W model 60, from my elderly aunt. It appears to be barely, if ever, shot by her. Personally, I ran about 4 or 5 cylinders of standard pressure .38 through it, since I got the gun about a year ago. The serial # is: R119XXX.

Would someone be able to tell me when the revolver was manufactured?

In excellent condition (see pictures), with the original matching grips and box, what do you gentlemen think it would be worth?

I am asking about worth, because I am considering trading or selling my model 60. The primary reason is, when I wrote to S&W, they told me the gun was too old to safely fire +P ammunition. I think .38 +P is adequate for self-defense, but I have real reservations about the effectiveness of standard velocity .38 special. Regardless of the revolver's condition or sentimental value, I don't really want to trust my life to a caliber I don't have 100% confidence in.

In its place, I am thinking about getting a model 640. Either the no dash .38 version, that can shoot +P ammo, or the .357 version.

Thank you for the advice!
Rich

 

[bigggbbruce]

What it's worth is keeping.

S&W is CYA on +p ammo. If mine I would shoot standard 38, and carry 38 +P. Since I don't get in daily fire fights(in fact never) your gun will last through a few rounds if needed(and many more)

 

[Wtlnrdr12]

I had a mod 60, from about 1977 or so. Ser# R105370. Loved that weapon. I cut the spur off of the hammer, and cut slots in the remainder for cocking grip. Also polished off the ridges in the trigger to make it smoother on the finger, and polished up the sear assembly. It was an awesome CCW!! I'd consider keeping this little beauty. If not, let me know on a price for sale. Thank you, and best of choices.

 

[fat tom]

Value often depends on where you live and what the local market is like. Around here,they are plentiful and don't bring any premium for a no dash variant. I recently sold one that was ANIB with all paperwork and tools for $565 shipped (I've seen similar guns bring more in an auction setting). Your gun has a few blemishes,no tools or paperwork and possibly a replacement end label (I said POSSIBLY ). If I were you,I would accept any offer of $450,or more. Also,I wouldn't be the least hesitant to load it with +P for my carry load. For what you have in it,it would be a keeper imo. It's for sure you couldn't replace it for that!
f.t.

 

[jsfricks]

I don't think you would have any problems running a limited amount of +P in your model 60. But with today's technology in bullet design, you would never be under gunned using standard 38 Special defensive ammo in it.

 

[kthom]

As much as I love my 640's (in both configurations you mention), I also am very proud of my M-60 no dash, and it has no family history. I strongly suggest you start saving your nickels and dimes for the time when you find a good 640 and then you will own two great little revolvers. Like you, I am plenty comfortable with .38 Special (with the newer good ammo) for my personal protection needs. I have never had a concern with using good +P ammo in any of the steel framed .38's, including my M-60. I do not shoot these rounds for practice beyond firing a few to determine point of aim and function. I use standard loads for practice and carry the +P loads for business. I also carry +P loads in my 640-1 for business, finding the .357 mag loads much to loud and blasty in these short barrels. I like the Speer Gold Dot +P loading made especially for short barrels with a 135 grain bullet a lot. But I also carry the full wadcutter Buffalo bore +P loading in the cylinder with the old standby 158 grain lead SWCHP loading (sometimes referred to as the FBI load) which has a long standing reputation for getting the job done. The SWC bullets are easier to reload quickly and less apt to be fumbled since they can enter the cylinder chambers a bit easier than the full wadcutters.

If you can only afford one revolver and must sell the M-60 to get your desired Model 640, then I'd choose the steel 640 Centennial style frame. That's my favorite for any style of concealed carry, and for personal protection purposes, I shoot only double action so the lack of an exposed hammer spur is of no consequence to me. A man oughta own and carry what he prefers if it's possible to do so, but if you can manage to keep that M-60 with it's family history and find yourself a M-640, I say it will be worth your time and money to do so. I don't think you will have any regrets if you do this! Besides, family history aside, that's a mighty fine example of the great M-60 revolver you have there. Good luck!!

 

[sw6866]

Thank you for all of the good feedback. I really appreciate it.

Sounds like the consensus is to practice with .38 and carry .38 +P.

I think I will go back to my original plan, which turns out to be exactly what "Wtlnrdr12" suggested ... bob the hammer, add cocking serrations and carry when needed. (The revolver does have a beautiful single action pull, which was a nice surprise with my first J-frame)
Member

 

[murphydog]

Thank you for all of the good feedback. I really appreciate it.

Sounds like the consensus is to practice with .38 and carry .38 +P.

I think I will go back to my original plan, which turns out to be exactly what "Wtlnrdr12" suggested ... bob the hammer, add cocking serrations and carry when needed. (The revolver does have a beautiful single action pull, which was a nice surprise with my first J-frame)
Member

This sounds like a good plan ammo-wise.

I'd respectfully suggest finding an identical replacement hammer to alter as you see fit, and keeping the original to be able to restore it to factory stock configuration. The part is readily available but may need minor fitting.

 

[shouldazagged]

Good decision. If you change your mind at some point, or (more likely) decide you'd like a second J-frame, the 640 in .38 special is a splendid carry gun. Personally I feel no need of .357 Magnum in a J.

I second the idea of having the trigger face smoothed. I have mine both smoothed and radiused by a smith. They just feel much better that way to me, but it's purely a matter of taste.

 

[Lobster Picnic]

There's no reason for a newer gun if you want to carry +P ammo. The Model 60 will handle it fine. If you have any doubts about using +P, try some of the standard pressure ammo from Buffalo Bore. I use the 140gr hard cast full wadcutter. That also make standard pressure 158gr hollowpoints.

 

[murphydog]

Ditto on altering a spare trigger as well .

 

[H Richard]

My Mod 60 (no dash) shipped in 1976, and it has had (cumulative) several boxes of +P put through it and many times that in standard velocity. It still locks up as tight as ever.

 

[sw6866]

Ditto on altering a spare trigger as well .

I agree, on modifying a second/spare hammer & trigger, and keeping the original parts intact. Any suggestions on the best place to find those?

Different topic:
Does everyone like the stock front sight? If not, any suggestions on enhancing the front sight? (I would rather not permanently alter the stock front sight.) I've people have used nail polish, to make the front sight more visible.

 

[gmborkovic]

Sir, bob the hammer? Have you lost your senses? Leave it alone and buy a J hammer all ready cut. Why do you guys want to keep cutting and hacking on nice old S&Ws? Im befuddled.

 

[murphydog]

I agree, on modifying a second/spare hammer & trigger, and keeping the original parts intact. Any suggestions on the best place to find those?

Different topic:
Does everyone like the stock front sight? If not, any suggestions on enhancing the front sight? (I would rather not permanently alter the stock front sight.) I've people have used nail polish, to make the front sight more visible.

Posting a Wanted to Buy ad here, online at one of the gun-related sites, or one of the parts suppliers (Numrich, Jack First, Poppert's) will probably find them.

Many use the nail polish or model paint on the front sight.

 

[GerSan69]

Thank you for all of the good feedback. I really appreciate it.

Sounds like the consensus is to practice with .38 and carry .38 +P.

I think I will go back to my original plan, which turns out to be exactly what "Wtlnrdr12" suggested ... bob the hammer, add cocking serrations and carry when needed. (The revolver does have a beautiful single action pull, which was a nice surprise with my first J-frame)
Member

+1 on glad you went back to door #1.
Now, I'm definitely not a fan of bobbing hammers, so I agree about keeping yours intact and getting a couple parts.
Look on GunBroker. Do a search for "S & W Hammer" or trigger. Usually several on there. A guy I've used for parts on GB goes by Magnum Mark. His stuff is good plus to excellent. He sometimes has factory-bobbed hammers listed; if you don't see one, you can always message him and ask. He gets back within a day.
Second source: eBay. Always many parts there, too.
Just remember rule #1 of guns: it's OK to sell or trade off, but make sure you'll never want another one like it down the road, because as the years go on, you'll have less and less a chance of getting another. (Don't ask how I know.... I'm still smarting after 30+ years for getting rid of a Model 520 for next to nothing.....)

 

[flintsghost]

I have and use a model 60 quite a bit older than yours. Mine is a pre-R prefix model with a 6xxxxx serial number. I use and practice with +P Speer short barrel whenever I shoot it. No problem at all and it's not even getting loose.

 

[Tam 3]

Qualified every 90 days with a "r" prefixed Mod. 60 for 6 years with +p or +p+ ammo. Just for kicks I put a cylinder's worth of factory 38/44 down range one time. She now resides in my desk, ready to go. Not for sale.

Regards,

Tam 3

 

[jrog100]

I inherited a S&W model 60, from my elderly aunt. It appears to be barely, if ever, shot by her. Personally, I ran about 4 or 5 cylinders of standard pressure .38 through it, since I got the gun about a year ago. The serial # is: R119XXX.

Would someone be able to tell me when the revolver was manufactured?

In excellent condition (see pictures), with the original matching grips and box, what do you gentlemen think it would be worth?

I am asking about worth, because I am considering trading or selling my model 60. The primary reason is, when I wrote to S&W, they told me the gun was too old to safely fire +P ammunition. I think .38 +P is adequate for self-defense, but I have real reservations about the effectiveness of standard velocity .38 special. Regardless of the revolver's condition or sentimental value, I don't really want to trust my life to a caliber I don't have 100% confidence in.

In its place, I am thinking about getting a model 640. Either the no dash .38 version, that can shoot +P ammo, or the .357 version.

Thank you for the advice!
Rich

Why waste the money on +P when standard 38 special has been getting the job done for over 100 years? I mean, if you think you need the extra horsepower, get you one of those hi cap wonder 9s and leave the 38 in the safe.

 

[jrog100]

I have and use a model 60 quite a bit older than yours. Mine is a pre-R prefix model with a 6xxxxx serial number. I use and practice with +P Speer short barrel whenever I shoot it. No problem at all and it's not even getting loose.

why use +p???