Renaissance Wax advice needed!

[akdude]

Few question and cant find answers anywhere!

Is it safe for use on Cerakoted and anodized guns?
Can or should it be used on Polymer like gun stocks and pistols frames, heard it shouldn't be used on rubber?

I know it should not be used on silver ware or items used for food consumption!

Does it gum up gun internals like Frog-**** (Frog lube)?

Want to use it on some old guns I don't shoot but maybe 1 or 2 X a year!

Thank You.

 

[ditto1958]

OP, I don’t think I’d use it on the internals of a gun.

Other than that, it should be safe to use on any gun, and should be an excellent way to protect a gun that will stored away for a bit. It’s good stuff.

 

[OldChief]

I've treated all my firearms with it and no problems at all. It isn't meant to be a lubricant. I just coat the external surfaces including wood and etc.

 

[hkcavalier]

Wax is pretty much the opposite of lubricant.

There is no way it's going to hurt a gun finish or any plastic/rubber.

Froglube, being coconut oil + additives, gets gummy at low temps because of what it is. Competition shooters seem to love the stuff while guys who don't shoot much, or hunt (often in cold weather) hate it. I do a lot more of the latter myself. My supply of Froglube got demoted to oiling softball gloves which is does quite well.

 

[FredBart]

It is a very high quality wax. You should not use it on the internal moving parts of a firearm. I would not use it on polymer frames as it has no benefit there. It is acceptable for the slide or any external steel parts. It is quite expensive per ounce, but a little goes a long way. I feel that Meguiar pure carnauba wax may be just as good for most applications ( not cleaner/wax).

 

[akdude]

So I guess its safe on Cerakoted guns and parked guns?

 

[Peak53]

They've already been ruined, so why not

 

[Arisin Wind]

Why put the wax on the Cerakote finish? It is extremely rust resistant.

 

[akdude]

Why put the wax on the Cerakote finish? It is extremely rust resistant.

Because I oil all my guns!

 

[akdude]

They've already been ruined, so why not

Only have 1 Cerakoted and anodized gun a M9A3 Beretta and they are not cheap!

 

[Arisin Wind]

Because I oil all my guns!

Well then, oil or wax it up.

 

[03hemi]

Best thing for Cerakoted or anodized guns is a silicon embedded cloth.

 

[jim46ok]

Properly applied Cerakote will withstand Acetone, and other harsh solvents. Check their website.....I wouldn't worry.

 

[akdude]

Thank you to all for the info!

Sadly I cant find really any info on the Renaissance wax except to have a window open and to apply sparingly and then wipe it off!

My situation is this I finally bought a Beretta M9A3 which wasn't cheap and I don't intend to shoot it on a regular basis and from alli hear the Renaissance Wax is the best for storage.

I only have this 1 gun which is both Anodized and Cerakoted and I was simply concerned.

I hear not to use the R Wax on rubber or Polymer which seems weird, since some Polymer stocks etc. have been known to crack in very cold weather!

 

[tlay]

I use it on all parts of the gun, internal and external. No problems. You can even use it on the box!! No kidding. I was told that the product was invented for museum use to use to protect a lot of different items that would decay being exposed to the air.
The proper way to use it is with your finger. Put it on and rub in until it starts to get tacky them buff with a very soft towel of microfiber cloth. The temperature of your finger melts it.
I introduced my friends brother to it. He runs a Museum in Pennsylvania that has a lot of Christopher Columbus items. He says it is great.

 

[jmr986]

If I keep it in the basement the surface is cool to the touch. Sometimes if the gun surface is cool, I'll blast it with a hair dryer to help melt the wax (before the wax is applied).

 

[JSR III]

Renaissance Wax is a Microcrystalline wax that is recommended by the curator of the Springfield Museum that houses the S&W collection. Guns there are stored for long periods of time and they needed a product that would last. If its good enough for the S&W collection, then its good enough for me.

I wouldn't worry about the Anodized and Cerakoted guns as their finishes are not likely to rust.

It doesn't take much and is better than oil because oil dries up and also holds dust. Once the oil has dried the remaining dust will attract moisture and moisture causes rust. Many older guns with freckling rust on the finish are the result of dust and moisture.

Wax, like on your car, keeps moisture away from the metal finish.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

Concern about rust is valid, but if you do something to keep moisture away from the guns it becomes less of a concern.

Dry packs, silica gel, etc. are good for specific weapons, and there are special storage bags that will further reduce exposure to moisture. Brownells, MidwayUSA, or even your local gun shop can help.

Periodic examination and wipe downs with a good CLP-type material is arguably cheaper than most alternatives. (That doesn't assure that all internals are protected, but there are little tubes that can be used with the CLP-type material that lets you put drops or squirts deep inside the gun.

 

[akdude]

Thanks for all the Info! I do think it is a great Wax was just shocked that it did not actually make any finish shine like Oil since it said leaves a "Sheen" but actually dulled the finish of all my pistols except 2 which have a Enamel baked on finish!

So what I been doing was wipe guns down with a clean cotton cloth apply Ren wax then wipe and then apply Oil over the gun and they all shine again!

I did put it on my NIB M9A3 which is anodized and Ceracrap coated and it reduced the normal shine then applied Oil and now all looks as before.

So I will keep using it on all my guns and then apply Oil over them.

Was actually surprised how the Ren Wax brought out hair line finish surface scratches in some old blued and parked guns, which I had never noticed but once covered with oil could not see them anymore!