Max Load Dilemma

jmclfrsh

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I’m working up loads for my new-to-me 6 1/2” 29-2.

I found a good plinking load, but I’m in a pickle on my higher-velocity load and wondered what some of your thoughts are.

Using Starline cases, Federal Magnum large pistol primers, Hornady 240gr XTP bullets and H110 powder, I started at the minimum load, 23.2 at 1350fps, and worked up to the max, 24.0 gr at 1400fps in .2gr increments.

I shot two six-shot groups at 10 yards with each load. My dilemma is, the 23.2 at 1350 shot decent groups, the ones in the middle were not acceptable but the 24.0 at 1400fps - the max load according to my Hornady reloading manual - were awesome! Far better than the others.

I went from slow to fast loads twice, letting the barrel cool off reasonably well between each group.

I normally do not load maximum loads, but there are no clear signs of high pressure - if there were, I don’t care how well they grouped, I would not load nor shoot them again.

But I do not want to beat up my revolver. I’ve considered loading up some of these for home defense and hunting only, maybe a box, and just shooting my plinking load the rest of the time.

I wish a lower-limit load resulted in groups like the max one did, so I could load those! But it is what it is. The max loads were cloverleafed into one hole on both groups.

Do you think a couple of hundred full-power loads over time could loosen up a 29-2?

This gun is very tight, having hardly been fired by the previous owner - like a handful of rounds, and he bought it new - so I don’t want to beat it up, either.

Your thoughts? And I appreciate your opinions on this.
 
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To answer your primary question: The limited use you propose won’t hurt your gun in your lifetime.

A couple observations:

Those max loads are way overboard for home defense. A mild 44 special equivalent is more than enough.

Groups at 10 yards aren’t much use in evaluating 44 mag loads in a 6 1/2” barreled Model 29. The minimum range would be 25 yards. You’re not shooting a 380 Bodyguard, after all.
 
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A few hundred rounds at 24 grains isn't going to kill your 29-2 with the 240 XTP. That gun was designed to handle full power 240 grain loads. Now, feeding it a constant diet of them, say in the thousands, would definitely start to loosen it up some over time, but I don't see where they will hurt your pistol for occasional usage.

Another powder that works well in 44 Mag is Accurate #9 and I find it to take downloading better than H110/296 and you might also look at Alliant 2400 too.
 
I collect model 29s and I never shoot full house magnums. Don't enjoy it, don't see a need for it, not good for my smiths.

I have a 1000 case of starline 44 special brass.

Loads I use are:
Bullseye ~ 5.1 grains
W231 around ~ 5.3 grains in that range
2400 around ~ 12.5 - 14 grains
HS-6 my favorite 8 - 9 grains with cci magnum primer

All of these shoot super accurate out of all my 29s, they feel good and make the impression that you shoot a big bore revolver, not powder puff loads and not stout either. Really nice, I can shoot them all days long and the guns get better with each trip to the range.
 
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For your lighter target loads....

You need to use a faster powder for your target to medium loads.

Decide what velocity you want and select a powder from the tables that will get that velocity in the upper third of it's range.

There's no reason your gun can't be awesomely accurate with another powder that's more suited for target loads and long range sessions.

You can load in the .44 Special range if it works for you.
 
I shot many heavy cast bullet loads (250 grain SWC and just under maximum charge of #2400 powder) in several 29s from the early '70s until a few years ago. I still have two of these guns, a 29-2 6" blue and a 29-3 4" nickel.

Some years back, most handloaders didn't load the .44 magnum down, though they would make up standard pressure .44 Special loads. I'm not sure now why I used to shoot the heavy magnum loads. They kicked hard, were noisy, and really not fun to shoot.

My guns surprisingly remain tight, but I no longer load or shoot .44 magnum ammo. .44 Special cast loads are pleasant to shoot and quite accurate in .44 magnum revolvers. Some needlessly fear a buildup in the cylinders from shooting .44 Special rounds. This is easily removed with a brush during routine cleaning.
 
I collect model 29s and I never shoot full house magnums. Don't enjoy it, don't see a need for it, not good for my smiths.

I have a 1000 case of starline 44 special brass.

Loads I use are:
Bullseye ~ 5.1 grains
W231 around ~ 5.3 grains in that range
2400 around ~ 12.5 - 14 grains
HS-6 my favorite 8 - 9 grains with cci magnum primer

All of these shoot super accurate out of all my 29s, they feel good and make the impression that you shoot a big bore revolver, not powder puff loads and not stout either. Really nice, I can shoot them all days long and the guns get better with each trip to the range.

What weight and type bullets are you using?
 
Agree, if you want mid range loads, switch powders. H100 is great if you just want to full power all day. It just doesn't download well. A medium burner like unique, be86, power pistol, wsf, all will produce good 1250fps+/240gr loads. Fwiw, none of my revolvers see jacketed bullets anymore. Too expensive, too hard on the forcing cone. Today, with coated kead bullets, littke point in jacketed bullets for busting paper or tin cans. I even hunt with lead bullets & would use a lead HP if I down loaded for self def loads.
 
What weight and type bullets are you using?

fast powder: Bullseye 5.1 grains, Dardas cast 200 gr RN

fast but slower than Bullseye: W231 around ~ 5.3 grains, Dardas cast 200 gr RN

slow powder: 2400: 12.5 - 14 grains w cast 200 gr RN, this is an ok load for medium hot loads

medium slow powder: HS-6 my favorite: 8 - 9 grains with cci magnum primer, 210 gr Sierra JHC: This does not download well, < 9 gr with cci 300 primer there is unburnt powder, but with cci 350 primer and 8.4 gr shoots literally like a laser, this stuff also meters the best.
 
H-110/W-296, in my experience, works best when it is near or at maximum safe pressure. If you are looking for loads that exceed 44 Special, but are less powerful than full-on 44 Magnum, then perhaps you should look at a powder that is slower than Unique, but faster than H-110/W-296.

2400 would actually be a good choice. It is an older, flake type powder, but works well when loaded to less than maximum pressures. HS-6 or Accurate Arms #7 would also be good choices.
 
H-110/W-296, in my experience, works best when it is near or at maximum safe pressure. If you are looking for loads that exceed 44 Special, but are less powerful than full-on 44 Magnum, then perhaps you should look at a powder that is slower than Unique, but faster than H-110/W-296.

2400 would actually be a good choice. It is an older, flake type powder, but works well when loaded to less than maximum pressures. HS-6 or Accurate Arms #7 would also be good choices.

I have actually moved back to 2400 after decades of h110, because it down loads better. Even for hunting loads, 50fps more vel isnt really helping much.
 
FWIW; I did shoot my 629 "loose" with a bunch of max loads. When I first started reloading for my 44 Magnums I had a good case of "Magnumitis" and worked up to close to and sometimes max loads. I had to have my 629 sent back to the factory to have the barrel "clocked". I have since grown up and my 44 loads are a still Magnum, but lighter...

Personally, I like a load that I can shoot all day and have left H110 behind. But I would keep working on a load that will give you good accuracy, but not hard on your gun, and you (different bullets?). I use a lot of 2400 now and some WC820 and have worked up some loads that are fairly accurate. I believe almost any load will be an OK hunting load unless you're after grizzly (a 250 gr bullet @ 1000-1100 fps will put down any deer)...
 
A few boxes of those max loads each year is not going to wear out/damage a modern N frame....that is what it is designed to do.

Back in the 1970's I raced my 68 Chevelle many times at the local 1/4 mile drag strip, it was fun and I'm still driving it. I no longer race it at the strip....the car is fine, engine rebuild and the car is good to go .
I just got too old...I can't get my engine rebuilt !

Shoot that gun and enjoy it...life's a lot shorter than you think.
For accurate 44 magnum loads try 2400 !
Gary
 
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Spend $50,000 on a car ... drive it .... wear it out ... buy another.

Spend $1,000 on a gun ... shoot it ... wear it out ... buy another.

Am I overthinking this?

OR;
Buy a $50,000.00 car and abuse it, never change the oil or any routine maintenance. Get a new car after present car dies prematurely.
Get a $1,000.00 gun, shoot max loads, rarely clean, or maintain. Buy an new gun after previous gun shoots loose after just 1,000 rounds...
 
I suspect that if you check Hodgdon's load data for that powder/bullet combination you'll find Hornady's Maximum is the STARTING charge weight for Hodgdon. While it may seem odd experience has shown me that the best path to accuracy is the Hornady 9th and it seems that with may calibers the most accurate load is the listed Masimum by Hornady. Reading between the lines perhaps what Hornady actually means is Maximum Accuracy instead of Maximum Pressure. Because it sure seems that way.
 
I don't load or shoot a lot of max power loads, but only because I don't enjoy them as much as downloaded target loads. For the same kind of punishment, I'd rather shoot 200 target loads than 50 hot max loads.

All that being said, if the hot loads are the ones you like, load 'em and shoot 'em to your heart's content. Your wrist and your wallet will both give up long before your model 29 does.
 

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