The Hollywood flip - put to the test.

Somewhere on U-Tube there has to be a video of how many rounds it takes to set fire to the wooden fore stock on an AK-47. From memory it takes over twenty five 30 rnd mags before it starts smoking and around thirty before it actually catches fire. I never did it with an M-60 but a friend of mine told me about firing enough belts through one to cause the barrel to sag, he said it started cooking rounds off on its own after that. They hooked up a number of full cans into one endless belt and squeezed them off, range duty had its perks.
 
Sorry, but the hyperventilation is sadly amusing. It's his gun and he's experimenting.
It's not a tutorial. Breath into the bag...
 
Sig220.45
Remind me to never sell you a revolver!
Next test I expect from you is tacking up a wanted poster with the butt of a SAA.

No it would have to be a Ruger SA. Many Ruger fans will tell you that they are built so stout you can hammer nails with them. Cannot count the number of times I have heard that line.

OP thanks for the post. Cannot say I would ever flip a cylinder, but it sure is fun reading posts of the flabbergasted brethren.
 
Another point you might want to check after excessive flipping would be the condition of both the cylinder stop and cylinder stop notches.

I have no way of proving this "theory" of mine (other than flipping my own revolvers-which I won´t do) but I assume if the cylinder is spinning when it gets slammed into the frame, then its rotational inertia should be stopped by the cylinder stop smacking against the cylinder notches.

I tend to believe this inertia would be too much for both parts, and therefore both of them should show dents or deformation due to this.

Of course I´m referring to the case in which the cylinder is first spun by hand and then slammed against the frame.

ND.
 
It’s just common sense that you don’t abuse a fine gun. Besides you would have to have a means of measuring wear/damage. Metal to metal is not good. It’s same as letting a slide on a pistol slam shut time after time with no cartridge to slow it down. In closing, do it all you want to your gun. Don’t ever do it to mine or it will be last time you are around me, and I’ll let you know it without hesitation.
 
The Real Hollywood flip

You are getting away with it...for a while. The thing you didn't mention was spinning the cylinder as you flip it. That is the proper Hollywood flip and that will cause damage to hands, extractors and cylinder stops. If the Cylinder isn't spinning it's not a real Hollywood flip.
 
I've had a few of mine cowboyed shut and didn't make a big deal about it. They were usually handing it back at that point anyway. I did show one fellow how to close the cylinder on a "good" revolver and he got the message.
 
My question is does anyone have a wrist strong enough to apply roughly 30,000 psi to the steel to a vintage S&W? ................ From a materials perspective, steel parts are not subjected to anywhere near yield point when closing a cylinder or a doublegun,
If you're quoting a yield strength, are you talking tension or shear? Given the low value I assume you're just making an example. You're also ignoring ductility. However, you have to realize that the yoke isn't an inch square bar. It's a rather delicate tube.

It's usually done where the customer can't see it, but armorers are taught to straighten frames with the customary babbit bar. Much thicker cross sections.

BUT I do not do either. Why not? Not sure, but maybe out of respect to those who abhor the practice. Technically, there should be no issues with doing so, but due to the fact that parts can break for any reason, why give someone another excuse to complain about your practice?:confused:

Well said.
 
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