22/32 Possible Restoration

[Retired W4]

A while ago I purchased this old beater revolver, SN 276570 (front grip strap, cylinder, which is not counter bored, yoke, barrel flat. Assembly #'s on yoke, yoke cut (frame) and side plate match. The bore is not perfect but OK. The blueing has been touched up and that is especially noticeable on the cylinder and barrel. It's all there, except for the stocks and it function.

Restore or Not?

I'm considering chemical stripping it and having it professionally re-blued. That, of course involves time and money, not to mention the cost of proper stocks. Although I do know where a set is.

Any ideas as to what it would be worth when it's all finished. I can provide more detailed pictures for evaluation.

 

[22hipower]

I've never been satisfied with any gun I've had re-blued. If you have it done by one of the good shops it will probably be worth about the cost of the refinish when you're done. I'd be inclined to put it back together and shoot it. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Restore or not? I've had several guns professionally refinished and I doubt I'll ever get back what I put into them. Your HFT is probably worth around $400 in its original condition. It will likely be valued around that in a refinished condition as it will have 0 collector value. If you just can't stand how it looks, soak the parts you want blued in a 50% solution of vinegar. That will remove the blue and any rust on the surface. Then hand polish the surfaces to make them shine or you can have them bead blasted. Then rust blue it. It'll still be worth around $400 but you'll have a lot less in it.

 

[stansdds]

You can spend $150 to $300 for refinishing and you will still have a revolver that is worth no more than it is right now.

 

[Retired W4]

Thanks guys. I think I will just clean as best as I can and reassemble. I think I can get the wood for $275-300. I'll see what it looks like after a deep cleaning and go from there. I will post pics when that process is complete.

 

[MajorD]

Stansdds is correct. Let’s say it cost you $200. Refinishing ( mid to good level ) will run $400. It will be then a $500 gun. Refinishing rarely adds value, and in old classics, if not done very well will decrease value.
My preference is to simply clean up as best as possible and enjoy shooting it.
Some of my best shooting guns have been neglected beaters bought cheap because of finish issues. Every one likes a pretty shiny gun, but those neglected specimens have a place in my heart.
One of my little satisfactions in life is to take one of these rough looking guns to a shooting match, and shooting a better score than the majority of shooters with the new fancy stuff

 

[ColbyBruce]

Personally I would bead blast blue or brush nickel that thing not expecting to recover the money I spent to have it refinished. I would then use and enjoy it. Had a blood splattered 2” #15 media blasted and blued a few years ago and it was presentable enough that someone took a liking to it and traded me out of it.

 

[mikepriwer]

The problem with refinishing (meaning getting the gun back to looking like its original finish) is that it's expensive, and unless recut, the roll markings will never be the same. This is ignoring the fact that the gun now has 0% original finish.

Apparently you don't have any information about it's early provenance, so as of now, there is nothing that make the gun significant. The barrel and cylinder seem to have the worst of the finish, but some sort of simple cosmetic refinish on those two parts will never look like the rest of the gun.

Given all of this, I see no reason to spend a lot of money on the gun. If it's not a good shooter, or if you have no interest in shooting it as it is, and there is nothing really important about the gun, then what's the point?

I'd like to hear why you are considering a refinish.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[Retired W4]

Well, I got it cleaned a lubed and back together. All the little internal parts were actually in very good condition. Some one had blued the inside so I polished the bearing surfaces, like where the rebound slide works. It's got a great action. Now to shoot it, finally.

 

[Alk8944]

Mike is correct about re-finishing. In actuality the gun is probably worth what you paid for it as a "shooter", and nothing you do to it will change that except getting a set of stocks for it. Since the gun is currently 0% original don't worry about period correct stocks, any that fit will work! Period correct stocks could be very expensive and a waste of money unless you Just have to have them!Your gun is probably about early to mid 1930s.

From what you describe the photo actually looks pretty good. If it were mine I would just shoot it and enjoy it as-is, Just don't shoot any high-velocity loads, the gun wasn't designed for them and if a case head blows out you could be injured, which is what the recessed cylinder was intended to prevent!

 

[Hondo44]

Happy to hear what you decided to do. It’s better than 50% of the HFTs that are out there and still original! If S&W would still restored guns that old that’s the only restoration I’d consider, but of course they don’t. And I wouldn’t have it done by anyone else. If you did, it would be worth less than most of that 50%.

The way it is with the addition of correct target stocks with matching wear, it’s more original and worth more than it ever could be. The roll marks are untouched, the sharp edges are still there, and the rebound slide pin is still domed; all still original! That’s what I like to see. If it were mine it would see more range time than my other nicer ones.

How much do you have in it? If you or your heirs sell it someday I doubt that you’d lose money even after adding the stocks.

Enjoy!

 

[Retired W4]

I bought it last year for $400, I figured if nothing else it would be a good parts gun. Turned out to be a functioning 22/32 I put a beat up set of hard rubber stock on it to fill the gap. They do the job, except for the rebated back strap. I'm headed out to a buddy's place to shoot it.

 

[Warren Sear]

I would re-assemble the gun, get a set of well used grips/stocks, and then enjoy the gun. End of story.

 

[Rpg]

Put it back together and shoot it.

I can’t imagine refinishing it unless you have a government grant. It looks fine as it is.

If it were mine, I’d be hard pressed to spend $300+ on stocks unless I couldn’t shoot it well without the stocks.

The refinish conundrum appears here frequently. The general consensus is that you won’t increase value commensurate with the cost of the refinish, and in some instances it will actually decrease the value of the gun.

The only good reason to refinish your gun is because you want to refinish your gun. That’s OK. If you’re just trying to impress someone (like the guys at the range) it’s probably not worth the cost.

 

[DCWilson]

I just want to add that the serial number puts it in the early post-WWI period. Other I-frames with reasonably close serial numbers were shipping in mid-1919, so that's a good provisional date for this one as well.

Since it has a rebated backstrap, you are looking for Regulation Police stocks. That's consistent with the date I suggested above. Before WWI and after about 1921 -- I forget exactly when -- the .22/32 HFTs had the two-screw extension stocks. In between, they were shipped with the RP stocks that were used on the .32 Regulation Police target model as well as the stock RPs. If you want the larger two-screw stocks, they would certainly fit that gun. But to be consistent with the original configuration, early medallion RP stocks are the way to go.

The familiar Patridge blade did not become standard on this model until 1923, so -- leaving aside the matter of front-sight options -- that beaded twin scallop thin front sight is appropriate for 1919.

 

[Hondo44]

I agree completely with David’s post above.

Also:
During the period of the rebated back strap/RP grips as standard (thru about 1924 when the two screw target stocks became standard once again), the target stocks were also supplied by the factory as an option and have lettered as such.

Prior to 1920, gold medallion RP and target stocks are period correct for your gun. After that period of your gun until 1929 no-medallion stocks are the norm.

Happy hunting. If I spot any I’ll let you know.

 

[Green Frog]

As DCW and Hondo have mentioned, that revolver would be “proper” with Regulation Police type stocks. I may get flamed for saying this, but both of the 22/32s I’ve owned had RP stocks and I find them superior in both looks and utility to the two screw targets made for that era of I frames. I just can’t warm up to they way they look or feel! As a bonus, the RP stocks show up a lot more often at fairly reasonable prices.

Froggie

 

[Retired W4]

Ok, I shot it with some RWS subsonic I happen to have at ~15 yards. Groups were ~6". Those tiny sights were killing me. My buddy wasn't at home so I didn't have a chance to see what it would do with a better set of eyes and steadier hands. The hard rubber grips didn't leave much to hold on to but there was no recoil to speak of. If a beater set of RPs come along that would work just fine. It was a good day, and that means a lot. Thanks all.

Tom

 

[fleabus101]

Hello Tom , I sent you a PM..
I think your early Smith here is a neat Smith !!
Randy..

 

[2152hq]

A have a nearly twin to that one. I bought it as a 'project' gun.
Trying to strictly refinish one and match Factory is very tough. Even those that say they do usually don't.
Then when it's all done you still have a refinished gun. It may be one of the better jobs depending on who does it. But it's not #1 Factory,,or #2 Factory Refinished.

There are still factory NOS bbls available for these from Numrich for under $40. In the White, but w/o any markings.
Presents you with a new bore, also presents you with fitting it up, final polishing, markings and bluing as well.
More $$

As a 'project gun',,they are nice because you haven't paid for orig finish and you don't want to anyway.
New grips are usually in the plan as well.
The Ok but not great bore would make me hesitate to put work into it as that's about the first thing checked over.

Parting it out is another option though I really don't like doing that unless the gun is a total failure and loss.
That Pre-War rear site alone is likely worth nerly 1/2 ofwhat you paid for the gun. But then you have to sell the rest of it.
It can take a long time to recoup your money in the Gun Parts Business.

Neat, handy little revolvers.
Maybe a cut back to 3 1/2" bbl'd custom job with some ivory and a touch of engraving...

Oh Hell,,just shoot the thing and enjoy it!