Considering buying this 52-1

[CKPOMEH]

Buy it and shoot it, don’t stick it in the safe! It has enough “character” to not be considered a true collector’s pistol. The metal looks better than the grips but I don’t think it’s been refinished.
The safety is strictly a firing pin block so it’s working correctly. I would advise against using the safety as a dry fire tool, repeated hammer falls will peen the safety and hinder its operation.
The only thing I see in the pictures that is a small concern is the damage around the trigger pin. Someone removed it with less finesse than he should have. Make sure the trigger function is correct, the pin was removed for some reason.
As to shooting it, unless you reload ammo can be a problem. Only flush seated wad cutters will function and they are not too common these days.

Thank you for the great observation and suggestion on the trigger - I see it now, too.

I assume a proper operation of the trigger would be almost no slop (better than the 1st and 2nd gen S&Ws which could be mushy), light pull (~3 pounds?) and a short reset?

I have never handled one of those before. The trigger definitely felt much better than the 39-2 and 459 that I have.

 

[paplinker]

I help a buddy at a gun show table that has a few of these for sale and has sold a few of all three variations. The dash 1s were bringing $1600 for average and 2 grand for in the box with a spare mag.

He had a dash 2 with four extra mags. On the first day he had 3 guys begging him to part with a couple and at $175 or $200 a piece he parted with two of them.

 

[Sevens]

The only thing I see in the pictures that is a small concern is the damage around the trigger pin. Someone removed it with less finesse than he should have. Make sure the trigger function is correct, the pin was removed for some reason.

Actually, I would say maybe not exactly that. There was a “no drill” scope mount design for these pistols that made use of this hole and that’s a tell-tale mark of it left behind. My extremely late TZT-prefix 52-2 has basically the exact same marking around the full circumference of the hole and the previous owner had exactly that scope mount.

There was another different no-drill mount that replaced the right side stock. I don’t believe either of them was the miracle answer that buyers had hoped.

(oh and the stocks/grips — no, the 59 and 459/559/659 plastic grips don’t properly fit the 52 or 39 and x39 pistols.)

(and curiously and tangentially related… the 52 and 952 stocks are also not swappable! That particular one is frustrating because they SHOULD be. The geometry between the holes is not compatible. It’s rare that I gripe about a PC gun, but that was just silly.)

 

[murphydog]

Cool gun and a decent buy at $899.

Any one want to comment on what appears to be foreign proof marks on the left frame and slide?

 

[sceva]

Cool gun and a decent buy at $899.

Any one want to comment on what appears to be foreign proof marks on the left frame and slide?

The OP asked the same thing ( , and I see what I think are German import marks on it - I know some people are put off by those, they do not bother me much - anything else on those?)

No one has chimed in about them; I am curious too. Evidently it was re-imporded at some point.

 

[BE Mike]

Unless you reload .38 SPL 148 gr. HBWC ammo, I would pass. Factory match ammo is very pricey. If you do reload, there are specific things you need to do for proper functioning ammo in a "S&W 38 Master".

 

[Drm50]

The OP asked the same thing ( , and I see what I think are German import marks on it - I know some people are put off by those, they do not bother me much - anything else on those?)

No one has chimed in about them; I am curious too. Evidently it was re-imporded at some point.

Not to long ago I had a High Standard Supermatic with German proofs. I see absolutely no detraction from a firearm with foreign proofs. Only from a collectors standpoint would it matter. I would guess most of these have been brought back by our military guys.
The US military weapons that have Importers Stamps on them kill the value in most cases because their value is primarily to collectors. I also have a FN Hi-power completion pistol that is made in Belgium but has American importer stamping in right side of frame. Scarce pistol and importer marks don’t hurt it.

 

[Plinkasaurusrex]

Unless you reload .38 SPL 148 gr. HBWC ammo, I would pass. Factory match ammo is very pricey. If you do reload, there are specific things you need to do for proper functioning ammo in a "S&W 38 Master".

I have a model 52 no – and have been loading for it. It functions perfectly using either double ended or hollow based wadcutters. What specific things need to be done, if you reload? I don't think I've been doing anything out of the ordinary.

 

[huthike]

I find reloading for my 52’s pretty straightforward as well. I’m no expert - if I can do it..

 

[CKPOMEH]

The OP asked the same thing ( , and I see what I think are German import marks on it - I know some people are put off by those, they do not bother me much - anything else on those?)

No one has chimed in about them; I am curious too. Evidently it was re-imporded at some point.

I am adding a zoomed picture of the three import marks below.
Left appears to be the Coat of arms of Germanyt (not sure why the N - this was the Nazi Germany symbol...)
Middle one I cannot make out what it is
Right one is 66. I assume year of importation or manufacture.

I have a Colt Diamondback with alike importation marks, I attached a zoomed in picture as well below - similar pattern - crest, pineaple looking middle stamps and 69 - this Colt was indeed built in 1969, I have confirmed.

Given the 57XYZ number on the 52-1 indicates something like 65/66, it is very likely 66 is the year of manufacture - i am extrapolating off the Diamondback here...

If anyone has ideas on that middle symbol, it would be interesting to find out what they are...

 

[Drm50]

I find reloading for my 52’s pretty straightforward as well. I’m no expert - if I can do it..

I agree, have Button Nose, DEWC & HBWC. I recently sold the Lyman HBWC mold, single cavity and now do Hornadys. I load a lot of WCs and only 50% are in WC cases. They all work well.
Also WC ammo can be bought for about the same as run of the mill 38sp. Look at S&B brand. I recently lucked into some Blazer aluminum cased WCs. 100pks. Never saw it before and don’t know if still being produced.

 

[Krogen]

It's interesting that some of us caution against dry firing with the safety on. I understand how it may not "feel" quite right. However, the manual indicates this is how dry firing should be done to protect the firing pin. It's not the first time an owner's manual contradicts general thinking.

 

[Sevens]

As for dry firing and the manual, that’s interesting for sure — and changes my mind not even a tiny little bit.

As for handloading of the .38 Wadcutter ammo specifically for a Model 52, I have read laundry lists of different takes, suggestions, ideas and some things that begin to sound like voodoo. There’s one fellow that goes to great lengths to explain that he refuses to size any of his .38 brass for which he makes his 52 ammo.

I’m fine with any crazy stuff other guys wish to do when they build their ammo and as a matter of fact, CONFIDENCE in one’s ammo is important so I not only respect all their black magic, I condone it — at their bench for their use.

I don’t do anything out of the ordinary. I always use R-P brass because in my experience, it’s the thinnest brass on the market. Of course I size it. I definitely flare the case mouth, I use swaged HBWC exclusively, I use 2.7gr Bullseye always and I give it a slight roll crimp.

And my 52-1 and two 52-2 pistols -sing- with this ammo.

 

[Beecherkid]

Actually, I would say maybe not exactly that. There was a “no drill” scope mount design for these pistols that made use of this hole and that’s a tell-tale mark of it left behind. My extremely late TZT-prefix 52-2 has basically the exact same marking around the full circumference of the hole and the previous owner had exactly that scope mount.

There was another different no-drill mount that replaced the right side stock. I don’t believe either of them was the miracle answer that buyers had hoped."


The scope mount that requires the right hand grip removed and the trigger pin replaced with their screw is the Leupold QI Base, part number 52143. Along with the circle mark on the left side around the trigger pin, there is most likely a scuff mark on the right hand side by the pin. I have one.

 

[Krogen]

As for dry firing and the manual, that’s interesting for sure — and changes my mind not even a tiny little bit.

I'd like to hear why your approach is better than that prescribed by Smith & Wesson. You mention in the earlier post to "dry fire away" with the safety (hammer block) off yet S&W indicates the safety being on benefits the firing pin during dry firing. Two opposite philosophies; why is yours better?

 

[Jim Watson]

The crosshatched shield in the German proof marks shows it was tested at the Munich proof house.

"N" proof mark is Nitro, not National Socialist.

Ve are sendink back your brutal .38 ve civilized Euros shoot .32s.

 

[Sevens]

I'd like to hear why your approach is better than that prescribed by Smith & Wesson. You mention in the earlier post to "dry fire away" with the safety (hammer block) off yet S&W indicates the safety being on benefits the firing pin during dry firing. Two opposite philosophies; why is yours better?

To be clear, I never said my philosophy is better. It is definitely the approach I would both choose and suggest.

Quite simply, repeated hammer fall is sending energy somewhere, and in my opinion, the firing pin is far easier to both source and fit. It’s also going to finish-match better as you cannot see it.

So if one part is going to take a repeated beating and MIGHT be damaged, I definitely choose the small, drop-in part rather than the larger, harder to find, fitted and finished part.

 

[pasound]

I load 38 HBWC and DEWC's for target shooting. Magtech has 148gr LWC's, loaded flush, and are still available at some bulk online sites. No idea whether they are HB or DE, but they work well. I'd think they would be fine in a 52.

 

[CKPOMEH]

Thanks, everyone for the suggestions on ammo. I, unfortunately, do not hand load (have not gotten to it yet, at least), so will be buying ammo at least initially.

Would something like that work fine in it? Or, shall I seek a specific brand that may be better in the WC rounds?

Sellier and Bellot Pistol For Sale .38 SPL SB38B 754908500178

Thanks agin!

 

[Beecherkid]

Thanks, everyone for the suggestions on ammo. I, unfortunately, do not hand load (have not gotten to it yet, at least), so will be buying ammo at least initially.

Would something like that work fine in it? Or, shall I seek a specific brand that may be better in the WC rounds?

Sellier and Bellot Pistol For Sale .38 SPL SB38B 754908500178

Thanks agin!

That ammo should work fine.