What Holster Do You Guys Carry Your 1911?

flip flappy

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I just ordered a Sig 1911 XO today and thought I better get to doing some research on holsters. Never owned a 1911 before. I plan to carry it cocked and locked and like to have one for IWB and one for OWB. I like Kydex for IWB and leather for OWB. I have seen some holsters with what looks like a thumb break or something to protect the exposed cocked hammer. Others don't have anything to protect the hammer. Will you guys please enlighten and educate me on what is best?
 
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Consider the Galco FLETCH. You can carry cocked & locked, or hammer down. It rides high, flat & close to your body, and very stable. Available RH, LH, Brown, Black, and Havana. Very high quality, doubled stitched, and excellent fit. Made in the U.S.A.


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Consider the Galco FLETCH. You can carry cocked & locked, or hammer down. It rides high, flat & close to your body, and very stable. Available RH, LH, Brown, Black, and Havana. Very high quality, doubled stitched, and excellent fit. Made in the U.S.A.


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I like the looks of this. Do you feel more comfortable with the thumb break and do you feel you are able to draw your pistol out of it effectively? Thanks for your response.
 
Here is my 1911:

For OWB DeSantis HRT (Made for FBI Hostage Rescue Team)
Carry C&L with the strap adding another measure of security.

For IWB Sparks VMII (Versa Max II)
I don't know of a better IWB.

Used them both for going on 20 years now.
 

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The two 1911 holsters I use for the purposes you intend are a Brigade Leather IWB leather holster and a Horse Shoe Leather small of back for OWB carry. Neither one has a snap as I prefer to have quick access and no fumbling around. I carry cocked and locked. Both are excellent quality, very comfortable and concealable... and both take special orders that can take a year to receive. I have spoken with both holster makers and have three Horse Shoe Leather (London based company) holsters for various firearms. The customer service is good, professional, and courteous, but both have waiting lists and stay busy due to the quality they produce. Check out their websites and reviews. Unfortunately, I have a suitcase full of 1911 holsters that never worked out for me. So, check these guys out... might cost more than you want to spend, but might save you a fortune in unused holsters. Good luck.
 
I like the looks of this. Do you feel more comfortable with the thumb break and do you feel you are able to draw your pistol out of it effectively? Thanks for your response.

I've been using thumb break retention holsters for about 45 years. Both with semi-automatic pistols, as well as revolvers, and I am very comfortable, and confident with them. They are simple, and they just work.

The Galco FLETCH in particular, has always been my favorite. I even have one for my S&W 640 j-frame!
 
I have been using a Tucker Gun Leather "The Answer" IWB for my 1911's for 10 years. I have been very happy with it and can use it for compact, Commander and full size 45's.
 
I like the old Bianchi Shadow. Smooth, low profile, thumbreak, pancake holster that holds the pistol securely. Simple and effective for about thirty years now.
 

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I have seen some holsters with what looks like a thumb break or something to protect the exposed cocked hammer. Others don't have anything to protect the hammer.

That strap actually exists to do two things: hold the gun in the holster, and prevent a discharge. The former is obvious, the latter will become so.

The 1911-pattern pistol features a grip safety, and a manual thumb-activated safety. It's also got a short, relatively light single-action trigger pull (even a conservative carry gun might have a trigger as light as 5#, and some match pistols go to 2# or less!).

In carry, the grip safety is easily deactivated unintentionally. It's powered by a relatively light leaf spring, and typically deactivates when pushed in ~2/3rds of the way in most setups.

The thumb safety, if you note, is not only located on the body side, it's also a fairly large paddle. This means it's very easy to deactivate it unintentionally, just moving around. That's why you frequently see standard or even under-sized thumb safeties on defensive pistols. The standard-sized thumb safety is quite easy to operate for most hands, and some even use it as a thumb-rest.

Most 1911 pistols sold today are what's called "Series 70". This means that they have no firing pin block. A Series 80 pistol does have a firing pin block, but they're almost universally maligned.

Now, it's quite easy, as well, to booger up a 1911 trigger. If you damage the sear/hammer engagement surfaces, or bend your sear spring the wrong way when adjusting it, or even during assembly, you can have a situation where the hammer can fall right off the sear.

The half-cock notch is actually designed to "catch" the hammer slightly. In other words, if the hammer falls off the full-cock notch, it catches and stops on the half-cock notch, or the half-cock notch slows the hammer down enough to prevent a discharge.

But, if you have a Series 70 pistol with no firing pin block or a disabled/malfunctioning Series 80, and the thumb safety is disengaged, and the hammer is jarred off the sear, and the half-cock notch fails to do its job, you can have a completely unintended, mechanically-induced discharge. Since so many people monkey around with their 1911s (Lord knows I tinker with mine), or build their own (working on it), these aren't exactly completely unknown events.

Alternatively, if your trigger is light, your holster is way too soft, or your trigger shoe is way too wide for carry, you can simply accidentally pull the trigger with the gun holstered. Remember, most 1911s have a clean-break trigger--minimal take-up, and no movement during the pull itself. For that to happen, all you'd need is to have the thumb and grip safeties deactivated, which is easy to do.

Bad news if the gun happens to be holstered when you do this!

Hence, the thumb strap. It physically sits in between the hammer and the firing pin, putting an end to all that badness while securely holding the gun in the holster.

Now, in a normally-functioning gun that's suitable for carry (i.e.--not the SA Range Officer with the sub-2# "cheater" trigger you use in Bullseye), having such a mechanical failure is extremely unlikely. With a carry-friendly trigger pull, it's simply difficult to do mechanically. That's because the trigger pull weight is mostly dependent on the pressure that the sear spring puts on the sear and disconnector. If you've got a moderate-to-heavy trigger pull, then its more difficult to jar the hammer off a worn sear/hammer engagement surface. If it's going to slip, it's more likely to slip when you chamber a round. And that moderate-to-heavy trigger pull means there's sufficient pressure for the half-cock notch to "catch" the hammer on the way down, and break its fall.

Welcome to 1911s.

Were I to carry my 1911, I'd frankly be fine with anything. If I could get it, the thumbstrap style is quite nice. I actually pack mine around the range with one regularly--can you imagine telling the officer, "Yes, I got robbed of all my guns and ammo, because they were all on the bench?" I like the security, and I like the hammer-blocking nature of it.

I wouldn't dismiss a Kydex, or something else that gave decent retention. But my gun is a full-size, all-steel Gov't model. It's heavy enough to bounce out if not secured.

The one caveat I would place on the thumbstrap is that it's not the best thing in the world to be shooting out of. It functions fine, but the snap button hits the gun every time you draw and holster.

You can get thumbstraps that can be buttoned around the front for shooting. Or you can get a Threepersons-style holster, which has a hammer thong--literally a thing like a leather shoelace that serves the same purpose. I would probably not carry with a Threepersons, but they were designed for that, and I have never used one, nor looked too closely at one for a 1911.
 
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I use the Blackhawk Serpa holster for both my 1911 and S&W M&P 45. Reasonably priced and they work. Many of our local LEOs use the Serpa.
 
I carry my 1911s in Garrett Silent Thunder holsters almost exclusively, the one exception being a nice Black Hills Leather rig that I've had for a number of years and wear on occasion. I like the Garrett holsters because they a kydex lined with smooth leather, you get the fit, retention, and adjustability of kydex and the smooth leather lining protects your gun's finish. I have several of them that I use for OWB and IWB concealed carry and competition, I like the Silent Thunder STX 2.0 for OWB carry, it is comfortable, conceals well, and you can adjust the cant as well as the tension.

My Garrett holsters do not have retention straps, guns 'bouncing out' of properly fit holsters has never been an issue for me, even with full size steel 1911s, and, as I said, you can adjust the tension on them to hold the gun as tight as you want. If you buy quality leather, the holsters are often tight enough that it takes some breaking in to achieve a smooth draw. I have a thumb break on my Black Hills holster because I occasionally wore it on duty and a retention device was mandated.

Your SIG is a quality pistol, I would not be concerned about carrying it cocked and locked with out a strap blocking the hammer. As Wise A's lengthy bit of fear mongering points out, multiple stars and planets must align for your 1911 to discharge on it's own in the holster, I've never heard of it happening in 30+ years of carrying 1911s. Also, quality holsters won't disengage properly functioning thumb safeties, though ambi safeties can and do sometimes get disengaged if the outside safety lever isn't protected.


Garrett Silent Thunder STX 2.0 and Garrett double mag carrier, this is my regular carry set up-
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Garrett Silent Thunder Champion & triple mag carrier (the gun is a Springfield EMP4, it's my 14 y/o's action pistol rig) this would also make a good concealed carry rig-
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Black Hills Leather rig-
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I only the 1911 at the range. That pig is way too heavy to tote around on the hip all day long.
 
This is a cross draw very easy to draw when driving-- which can be also be worn as a sholder holster when riding a motorcycle. My saddle maker buddy made it a little wide so it doesnt dig in.
 

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I don't know what's the best but I swear by Jason Winnie.

I used both J111 (open top) as well as J131 (thumb break) with my M&P and I do prefer the thumb break. It just gives more retention.

I have a black J111 for a 5" non-rail in stock if you are interested.
 
I have been using my Galco v hawk for around 4 or 5 years now. Very comfortable with an all steel full size 1911.
 

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I have been using Simply Rugged for my 1911 compact and my 44 special for some time and I am very happy with both. These are made in Arizona and are all leather. You can get plain steer hide to tooled exotic leather, mine are the former. They have a pretty extensive listing on their web site.
 
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