Jay-Pee Swivel Holster Fit

NY-1

Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Messages
585
Reaction score
1,745
Location
NYC
I recently acquired an older Jay-Pee swivel holster in fairly decent shape. The seller didn't know what model of revolver this holster was intended for, and the holster itself isn't marked with any model.

Is there a way to determine what revolver this holster is supposed to fit? A Colt Police Positive (38S&W) fit with plenty of room to spare, didn't deform the holster at all, and could easily be rotated to overcome the holster's interior spring/flap retention. Conversely, a S&W heavy barrel Model 10 is large enough that the leather bulges to take its shape, the fit is as tight as can be, and getting it past the retention flap and out of the holster is seemingly impossible without inserting a rod or shim in between the cylinder and the spring-loaded flap, and wrenching the gun sideways in order to create enough clearance to remove it.

sG9IxYE.jpg


KQ9beZJ.jpg


GzsMbSL.jpg


Ap8MV6N.jpg


yert6tz.jpg


XPwwpsI.jpg


rheta03.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
You need to try a model 10 with the pencil barrel. Years ago I trained with department that issues J P swivel holsters with the safety strap. I almost laughed when the order to draw was given and everyone grabbed the holster with their off hand coming across their body and used the strong hand to release the strap and draw the revolver. The swivel might be more comfortable to wear in the cruiser but I certainly would not want to be required to wear one.
 
Push the revolver down in the holster, then pivot the butt-end forward while keeping downward pressure. The revolver will roll out.

There's no room to push the Model 10 any further down into the holster at the moment, though pivoting the grip toward the body does seem to help. I've been told that the retention on these holders (a metal-reinforced leather section that juts out and blocks the cylinder and recoil shield) is especially stiff when the holster is new or otherwise hasn't seen much use. That seems to be the case here. I think I'm going to let the Model 10 sit in it for a few days and work that retention piece a bit to see if it loosens up.

You need to try a model 10 with the pencil barrel. Years ago I trained with department that issues J P swivel holsters with the safety strap. I almost laughed when the order to draw was given and everyone grabbed the holster with their off hand coming across their body and used the strong hand to release the strap and draw the revolver. The swivel might be more comfortable to wear in the cruiser but I certainly would not want to be required to wear one.

I've been meaning to obtain a pencil/tapered barrel M&P or Model 10 for the collection one of these days. It's just behind a 5" Model 27 on the to-buy list for now. And that's a great mental image - I can't imagine the swivel helps much when there's a separate strap involved, but it sure is comfy when sitting in a car. This holster's interior thumb/spring setup seems to be fairly intuitive, provided that the leather is broken in enough that you can actually draw the gun out. As it stands right now and as I mentioned above, I'm gonna try to work at it and see if it becomes more pliable.
 
That’s an NYPD Jay Pee holster. They came in one size for the Model 10 and the Ruger Service Six. I have two of them. One well used that the gun comes out easily, and another that must have been a back-up because it doesn’t have a mark on it. That one is super tight. My Service Six and Model 10 fit in them both. The way we were taught is to slide the thumb between the flap and the cylinder and that creates the gap needed to draw the gun. Yours looks new enough that it just needs breaking in. Guys would take their duty rigs home and practice drawing until it loosened up a bit. The well used one I have allows the guns to come out with ease.

When the Ruger GPNY came along, they must have made a holster slightly bigger because I cannot get my GPNY into either of my Jay Pee holsters.
 
That’s an NYPD Jay Pee holster. They came in one size for the Model 10 and the Ruger Service Six. I have two of them. One well used that the gun comes out easily, and another that must have been a back-up because it doesn’t have a mark on it. That one is super tight. My Service Six and Model 10 fit in them both. The way we were taught is to slide the thumb between the flap and the cylinder and that creates the gap needed to draw the gun. Yours looks new enough that it just needs breaking in. Guys would take their duty rigs home and practice drawing until it loosened up a bit. The well used one I have allows the guns to come out with ease.

When the Ruger GPNY came along, they must have made a holster slightly bigger because I cannot get my GPNY into either of my Jay Pee holsters.

Thanks for the insight. I'm gonna work on trying to break this one in over the course of the next few days, otherwise it looks like my Model 10 has found its permanent resting place with how much it wants to stay in there. Haha. I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with how well such a simple retention system works.

I still maintain that the Speed/Service/Security Six line of Rugers is superior to the GP100 that replaced them as far as size, balance, and weight are concerned. The former are noticeably more svelte and stylized.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the insight. I'm gonna work on trying to break this one in over the course of the next few days, otherwise it looks like my Model 10 has found its permanent resting place with how much it wants to stay in there. Haha. I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with how well such a simple retention system works.

I still maintain that the Speed/Service/Security Six line of Rugers is superior to the GP100 that replaced them as far as size, balance, and weight are concerned. The former are noticeably more svelte and stylized.

If you want to speed it up, wrap the gun in a thin dress sock. That will make it ever so much wider and speed it up. But just jamming that right thumb in there will pull the cylinder away from the leather and allow you to draw it. Your thumb will be a bit sore but it loosens up pretty quickly with enough practice.
 
Thanks for the insight. I'm gonna work on trying to break this one in over the course of the next few days, otherwise it looks like my Model 10 has found its permanent resting place with how much it wants to stay in there. Haha. I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with how well such a simple retention system works.

I still maintain that the Speed/Service/Security Six line of Rugers is superior to the GP100 that replaced them as far as size, balance, and weight are concerned. The former are noticeably more svelte and stylized.

I agree. I have an NYPD Service Six and a Model 10. They both fit perfectly in both the holsters. The worn one is easier to draw from but the new one works just as a new one would. Jam that thumb over the cylinder and it clears the holster.
 
What you have is an NYPD Regulation Swivel Holster, designed for the 4 inch Model 10 (standard or heavy barrel), the Ruger Service Six, and the Colt OP. Retention is by the leather ledge which blocks the cylinder. Release is by a slight twist of the revolver so the top strap creates space allowing the cylinder to pass by the leather ledge. It really is a nifty system and NYPD never had a problem with revolvers being snatched despite the lack of a safety strap. The NYPD Regulation Non-Swivel retains the revolver in the same manner. They loosen up with use.
 
What you have is an NYPD Regulation Swivel Holster, designed for the 4 inch Model 10 (standard or heavy barrel), the Ruger Service Six, and the Colt OP. Retention is by the leather ledge which blocks the cylinder. Release is by a slight twist of the revolver so the top strap creates space allowing the cylinder to pass by the leather ledge. It really is a nifty system and NYPD never had a problem with revolvers being snatched despite the lack of a safety strap. The NYPD Regulation Non-Swivel retains the revolver in the same manner. They loosen up with use.

I guess that would work after it’s broken in but they’re really tight at first and a twist doesn’t move it enough to clear the leather lip on the holster. Jamming your thumb down between the gun and the flap creates the gap as well.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top