Good Day:

I have an IWB holster made by Monica Kuehn for my 1911 LtWt Cdr. It is a pretty little thing and sits deep like I want the 1911 to sit. Only problem is that over the years, my hip has polished the back side of the holster to where it is super slick, no tack at all. I will get all set up, but it will take that side of my pants down like it was greased. Much more so than the all-steel 1911GM and holster rig, that has the flesh side of hte leather out on the back of the holster. Obviously the MK IWB was made grain-out on the back.

I was wondering if there is a preferred way to tacky-up the back of the holster to help keep it in place?

I will see if I can post photos. OK, links to photos. O, no links either. I love image hosts who make it difficult to share images.

Posting photos on this site is as easy as it gets.

There is a tutorial somewhere.

As for the holster, how about a wire brush to raise the worn smooth, once rough out backside?

I don't know if you would go to such an extreme on a quality leather rig. However, this is what I've done to some of my nylon Desantis and also kydex rigs.

I buy a couple of thin rubber sheets for plumbing use from the Ace or Tru-Value. Usually a pack of 3 in like 5"x8" size. Cut out a piece that fits the back of the holster. I then use good-old contact cement to secure one to the other. That rubber really grips your skin, or undergarmet, quite well.

A couple of big and thick rubber bands wrapped around the holster.
I use them on a couple of slick leather pocket holsters.

I think I will try this in the short term. If it doesn't work, no foul.

OK, another image posting attempt, htis time as attachments.

Attached Images

	monica_k_holster_front_800x800.jpg (61.2 KB, 46 views)
	monica_k_holster_back_800x800.jpg (60.6 KB, 50 views)

Are you sure it's the holster and not the belt you are using? A good belt should keep it from sagging. Just another point of view here.

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Why duck?? It's a 9mm!

I would take a wire brush to that holster!

From you initial description I thought it was a rough out holster, not a smooth leather outer surface.

I’m thinking you need to snug up your belt.

If you want more stick the rubber sheet option sounds good.

I am good on belts. I have quality 1.5 single, 1.5 double, 1.75 double - thick leather gun belts and 1.5 & 1.75 nylon reinforced 5.11 gun belts, too.

FTR, the holster loops max out at 1.5 double-thick leahter gun belts or 1.5 reinforced 5.11 belts.

If I snug anymore I won't be able to feel anything below my waist.

The key pieces of evidence:
1. With this holster and a 1911 Lightweight Commander I get serious sag.
2. With a different rough-out holster and an all steel 1911 Gov't Model (much heavier) I get no sag.
3. Both holsters Milt Sparks VM2 clones.
4. Both holsters usually caried on 1.5 double thick leather gun belt or 1.5 reinforced nylon 5.11, though I can get away with a 1.5 single-thick with the 1911GM & rough out.

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I think I will approach the issue this way, given y'all's input.

1. Try the rubber band technique. The rubber band(s) will likely cover no more than 10% or the back surface area and will likely be tolerable.

If #1 does not work...

2. Rough up the back side contact points (avoiding stitching) with a tool made for that I saw at Tandy leather. It is aggresive, but smaller than most wire brushes and made to score the leather for later glueing.

I will not glue a slab of rubber to the holster. May as well get a kydex plastic holster. If neither solution works, I will put in an order to either Milt Sparks or Kramer and use the IWB holster I'd normally use for my 1911 GM.