Wifes car: 1996 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3.1L, 64,000 miles, owned since new. Tilt wheel, multifunction signal stalk.

Have had some sort of electrical problem over the last several months that keeps expanding and getting worse. The typical m/o is that the problem will start out being intermittent and then progresses to complete failure over a number of weeks.

- The, 'you don't have your seat belt' indicator on the dash started out with intermittent failures and now doesn't work at all.

- The door locks would not lock when the vehicle reaches X speed (or the door is closed), and will not unlock when the key is turned to off, though you can still lock and unlock using the button on the door. For awhile the door locks would just lock and/or unlock on their own while driving or sitting idle at a light, now they don't even do that. (but the button on the door still works)

- The radio volume on the dash radio has intermittent failures, yet the volume button on the steering wheel works fine.

- Yesterday the left turn signal started intermittently failing to work, multiple times during a short drive. You will turn it on and it won't work, then try again a short time later and it works. When it's in the not working mode you can push and hold the lever in the lane change position and the indicator light will light and stay on steady as long as you hold the lever there.

I scanned it with my obdII reader and of course it shows no trouble codes.

These problems started with the door lock deal and started up around the time we had a week of sub freezing temps a couple months ago.

I seem to recall potential problems with the turn signal stock on these cars but I don't know if that could be tied in with the door lock, radio volume, and seat belt indicator?

Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

History as it relates to electrical type issues:
- At 14,000 miles the dealer replaced the pcm due to an intermittent no-start problem.

- The car has always burnt out headlights at a rate which seems higher than normal. All connections are clean and free of corrosion.

- The car has had the alternator replaced twice in the 64K.

- The car seems to go through rear turn signal bulbs more frequently than typical. Last year there was a similar intermittent right turn signal problem but it went away by itself. All connections are clean and free of corrosion.

Thanks

I'm no expert. Electrical problems are the worst. Looks like you have multiple problems that aren't neccessarily related to each other.

As far as the turn signal problem, sounds like a broken wire that's grounded out. The only way to find out is to trace the wires. You may have to pull the steering wheel. After you remove the airbag of course. You will need some special tools to do so. Make sure you disconnect the battery first.

Sorry I can't help more. I'm sure others have some better suggestions.

Sounds like the computer has a loose screw . Something linked to the computer is doing it, most of the stuff you talked about work off the ground - Like the switch in the seat when you sit down makes the ground for the little red light to come on, then when you click the belt in it open's the ground to the light. Simple but works, when you deal with electric everything is a switch in one way or the other. Check your connections on the ground system.

Too tired to skull "F" it tonight
I'll chew on it awhile and get back to you Wayne.
Burns out headlights and tail lights?
All those indicator's would tend towards ground issues?
But, one question. Was the car ever in a significant wreck?
Do all the functions (beyond the T/S being inop) still function on the other column mounted controls, dimmer, intermittent wiper, 4 ways etc.?
Does the car have tilt wheel?

Take it to the Oldsmobile dealership-they ought to be able to fix it.
More importantly-you answered your own question. It's your wife's car so who cares if some stuff doesn't work
My wife drove a 1993 Plymouth Grand Caravan. She kept complaining about it kinda falling apart (only had 245,000 miles on ir-the AC was warm, the headlinder made you think you were driving in a tent, at certain speeds it "sounded funny" yadayadayada.......... I told her that noting was wrong-she just needed to recognize it as an old car and that it had certain traits that she should by now be used to.
I had to work so I couldn't make a week long vacation and I let her take the Suburban cause ot had more room and she needed to tow a boat which meant I drove the Plymouth for the week. She got home Sunday night and Monday morning she had a new car The guy at the dealership offered me $200 for the plymouth in trade-I made him give me $250 cause I had just filled the gas tank Sunday

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I hear there are some great deals on Toyotas, this week!

Yes tilt wheel.

All functions on the column besides the intermittent turn signal still function - cruise, washer, wipers, dimmer on turn signal stalk still work. 4-ways, horn, radio volume & channel and the other two functions on the wheel still work (can't remember what they are at the moment)

We have owned the car since new and it has not been in any accidents, although at the rate it's going I'm fixing to make it have an accident.

The headlight replacement frequency is more notable than the rear turn bulbs. The wiring looks good and the plug is clean, they are not being knocked out due to environment, they are hardly ever used, but still burn out in what seems to be a short time to me.

One other item that I forgot to mention in the OP. The car used to have a, 'you left your headlights on dummy' chime when you turn the key off. This doesn't work anymore.

Thanks

That strategy worked up until the turn signals not working episodes. Apparently having to push the turn signal stalk to the momentary position repeatedly to mimic a blinking turn signal (one blink at a time) was too much for her to accept.

I messed with the turn signals some more this morning and the left side is still intermittent. When it doesn't work, flipping to the right turn and back to the left usually gets the left working again. In addition, one time when I had it on left turn and it was not working I pulled the stalk back (high beams) and the left turn started working. Since then the left turn has worked through 10 cycles so far.

Based on this highly technical testing I'm going to call the stalk bad and replace it. Seems like about $80 from gmparts direct. Probably need special tools for the lock plate and steering wheel bolts but I may have those made from a previous steering wheel battle on another gm car of the same year. Whether I can find where I put those tools is the real question.

Not sure on the other problems but the signals are the most urgent.

First order of business, try a new flasher unit for both the turn signals and 4 way flashers. (each system has it's own) What voltage is the alternator putting out when running? 12.8V-14.2V are the range all the systems are designed to operate. Getting up to, or too much above that range can cause light duty solid state stuff (warning modules, digital displays, chimes etc.) to go haywire. Getting that high or higher can cause the filaments in incandescent bulbs to fail early as well. So the first thing I'd check is what system voltage the voltage regulator is allowing the car to see.
Just remember, the advice is worth every penny your paying for it!
(EDIT)
OK, our messages crossed one another in the ether.
Mentioning that last symptom defines T/S switch issue.
Easiest way to test prior to tear down, is to plug it into the bulkhead connector at the bottom of the column and energize. If that's the cause, it should return T/S functions. The other stuff I mentioned above still applies...

Well, I just got bit by madame Karma for my little post.
The switch for my Driver's side window just went out in the suburban

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I hope the window was "up"?

Makes it hard to go through the drive thru. About 50k miles ago, I was working on my Mercury in the driveway and a neighbor came over. After finding out how long I had driven the car, and how many miles I had on it, he said, "That car don't owe you nothin'." I believe the same could be said of your Suburban.

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Thanks SD. Good point about checking system voltage. I'll try and do that tomorrow.

Can you clarify on the last part about using the connector at the bottom of the column to test the switch? Am I correct in the stalk and switch are two different part numbers and it's the switch that usually fails? (I have not been inside it yet)

I've bought several actuators for Chevy Tahoes from this place.
Chevy Suburban Power Door Lock Actuator at 1AAuto.com

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Just so we're on the same page Wayne.
We are now talking about the actual turn signal switch, correct?
I ask, only because the "stem" or "stalk" can have a set of switches that may vary with option packages. Cruise, pulse wiper, etc.. Many people refer to the "turn signal switch" when they actually are only looking at the actuating arm FOR the turn signal switch. That arm can have several functions, as well as several switches, dependent on option packages.
So, are you purchasing the turn signal switch itself, or another switch also operated off of that same common lever?
I don't want to give you any bum advice based on not knowing enough of the details?
(EDIT)
Wayne, feel free to P/M me on this at anytime.