Alright yall. Last time I was here I was thinking about getting the Smith and Wesson 40VE I am managing to save up a little more money to the 450-500 range compared to the 300 for the sw40ve.

I went to a local GS the other day and was about to walk out with one, but my background check is on delay. Im glad it did cause its given me more time to decide on other guns.

First how do you go about deciding cal. I'm thinking a 40 is just right for a beginner . Wont have to graduate early from a 9 and 45 is a little m.uch, plus the ammo cost .

I am now stuck trying to decide, assuming I go with the 40. I like the newer Walther PPQ, EAA Witness P, Springfield XD and even the Taurus PT840. Before yall start saying Glock and 1911 and M and p, I have considered these and Am trying to decide on the one's listed as I like the features and reviews from them.

Thing is Ill have to order from the Internet because stores around here are very limited. They all can be had for 500 or less online. Is it a bad idea to have a different place run a background while one is on delay? I was told yesterday the delay was prob from my ID having a different address than on my app.

Also their is a gun show coming to town next week ... Should I attend this in hopes of them having what i want? Are they over priced usually ?And once your cleared on the background is it quicker the next run?

Thanks y'all

I had an XD in .45 for a while, it shot well and carried well too. My brothers son in law (my nephew in law?) has an XDM in .40 and couldn't be happier. I just never grew much of an attachment to mine. It was a tool I used as trade stock for my 27-2.

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Even older, even crankier....

For a beginner I would suggest a .22 LR. Once you master that - step up to a .38 Revolver and then a .45 ACP. The .40 is more of a "snappy" round than the .45 and while it is not uncomfortable to shoot, I would say it is not a "beginners" round. Just my opinion of course...........

Welcome to he forum by the way!

Chief38

For a beginner I would say to look into a NRA BASIC PISTOL COURSE. Learn the FUNDAMENTALS. Practical application would be to learn the fundamentals, BUY and PRACTICE them a bunch with a .22LR pistol or revolver as the ammo is cheap and you can Practice Practice Practice.

You will then be more informed, a better shooter in general and more able to make your own choices of future firearms.

The firearm NEEDS TO FIT YOUR HAND and fit it properly with the straight line relationship of Hand Grip to forearm. Too Big and the Grip is cocked at a slight angle in the hand which leads to less control. The firearm should just feel "RIGHT" in your hand, as in FIT LIKE A GLOVE.

I personally would not consider a 40 as a beginners firearm, forget the High Capacity, Wall of Lead, RAMBO stuff, learn to shoot properly, safely, and
HAVE FUN DOING IT.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

A .40 SW auto really isn't the best choice for a new shooter. It's going to be louder and kick a bit more than a 9mm. Ammo costs are also higher.

However, if you are on delay for the Sigma, that means you told the dealer that you'd buy it, making at least a verbal contract. Keep your word, pay your money, and get the Sigma.

It really won't be any better or worse than the other guns you've mentioned anyway, and at least it is cheap enough. I have one in .40 myself. Never use it for anything, but eh, a spare is nice.

Totally false. I run NICS checks everyday. Your address isn't even part of it. Yes, it's on the 4473 and the gun shops records, but it's NOT part of the NICS background check. Only the important stuff to identify you is given to NICS; name,place of birth/height/weight/DOB/SS#(optional)/race/state of residence.

There are many reasons that an app can be delayed, but your addy isn't one of them. You were delayed for some other reason, and you will be delayed again if you go somewhere else.

No, it isn't quicker the next time. Each purchase begins the process again. I have regular customers who always get delayed. You can contact NICS to find out why you're always delayed, if that's the case. Since this is your first purchase, I wouldn't worry about it. There's something causing it. If you have an active investigation going on, such as a CHL application, that can cause it.

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Proud USAF Dad

Since you asked for opinions:
As stated - 40 isn't a very good starting place.
I always (anymore) suggest that beginners start with a 38/357 REVOLVER and MASTER IT then move up to right at anything. You really can't beat the S&W L Frame revolvers. You can shoot light .38 target ammo at first and get progressively heavier loads as you MASTER each new amount of BANG and recoil upto and including stuff that will take out a bear if necessary.

The other, and best, advice that you got above is Go To Some Classes - THE NRA BASIC PISTOL CLASS being THEEE best starting place.

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In dog years I'm dead.

The others are giving you good advice on starting out, with a 22 cal gun. That will allow you to get the basics down first. Take a look at the M & P's 22 handguns. I have one and its a great gun and when you decide at a later time to step up to a larger cal, the change will be easy. You will also save money because the 22's are economical and fun to shoot

Just keep in mind that you are planning on buying a gun that many think kicks harder than the old .45 service auto, and it scared GI's for decades! It takes training and practice to master.

If you MUST have an auto, try to find a Beretta M-92FS, which might appear in your price range. It's a classier gun than those you mentioned (I think) and a lot of bang for the buck.
It is battle proven, and don't believe the yarns that the 9mm is always a poor "stopper." I know a man who has killed nine insurgents in hot battle with a 9mm, and with GI "ball" FMJ ammo. I knew another, a former Rhodesian police official who ran a counter-terrorist program, and his men usually felt okay using 9mm's. They shot people, not gelatin!

But I really think that in your stated price range, I'd buy a .38 or .357 revolver. (A .357 Magnum will also fire .38 Special loads when full power isn't needed, like about 90% of the time.) Get one in stainless steel, either a S&W or a Ruger GP-100. There are many police trade-in's on the S&W's and if you learn how to buy a used gun, you can get a good deal. Your basic revolver should probably have a four-inch barrel, unless you have enough expertise to want something more speciailzed.

When you do buy an auto, try to get one with a soul, not just a functional shooting machine.

If this dealer has any good revolvers or a 9mm Beretta, maybe he'll let you buy that in lieu of the gun to which you committed. Had you not already placed your order, I'd say to definitely attend a gun show for better selection! But you have to know what you're doing, and have a feel for prices. They are NOT always as high as some here infer. And some dealers will haggle. I hate that process, but it may save bucks.

And get your ID corrected before some cop gives you grief for having an outdated one, if that is the case. I'm guessing that you aren't trying to buy out of your home state, or the dealer should have caught that.

Why would your address on the 4473 not match your ID? Most shops here match your info written on the 4473 to your DL before they'll run the NICS. Your problem sounds like a State/local/store policy.

If you don't want the gun don't buy it. The dealer had in his stock. If you find something else you like in the store offer $10 for their "paperwork trouble". First gun should probably be .22, but if you can't justify another gun for a long time go with a 9mm. Ordering a gun off the internet adds too much to your limited budget.

Isn't there a time limit on NICS holdup? 72 hrs nor something??

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SOS USA

If you have already put in at the shop, I think you are somewhat bound to complete the sale. I like my Sigma .40, but I'd suggest you try the Sigma 9mm if you have to get a Sigma (your dealer might be fine with this). The 9mm will be a lot easier to learn on. I had plenty of experience in the military with the 9 before I got the .40 and it still took a little while to get use to the "snap" of that round. It's not like it will rip out of your hands or any nonsense, but it will be noticed when you fire it. Funny, my kids prefer my .45 over the .40 even though they were afraid to go higher at first. Then they tried it and found it's easier to shoot. I agree actually.

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"... shall not be infringed."

The gun show may give you a chance for HAND FEEL AND FIT of many different firearms.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Agree withall those that stated "get a .22 first" to learn to shoot with. You will be able to do 10 times the shooting that you could with any centerfire handgun, and learn properly how to shoot well before wasting money on all that .40 cal ammo. Go to the gun shop, and appologise for changing your mind on the Sigma, but buy a .22 from that shop. If you buy from the internet, you must pay shipping, then pay a local FFL to receive it. Better add $50 - $75 to the price listed on the internet for the "real" price. Support your local gun shop, it can pay off later when you buy more.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Once the 4473 is complete and the NICS check is run the shop will have to account for the 4473 form. If you get cold feet or change your mind after the NICS check it's up to the GS as far as policy concerning the sale. They CANNOT make you buy that gun. You may run into a store policy that says you will loose your downstroke if you don't transfer it to another gun purchase.

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SOS USA

Thanks for all the feedback yall. I may consider a 9 but nothing less. And no revolvers. I probably wont purchase another gun for awhile so i want to be happy for the long haul.


The gun show will give me a chance to feel and decide better. The prices I'm not sure of, but cheaper than dirt and other similar place have them cheap..


But if my background check is always delayed I can't buy on the spot there

Forgot to mention this will be a sd/hd , range gun

The others poats have some good suggestions. I would suggest a S&W 9MM police trade in, of which there are an abundance right now, and at decent prices. There is a great deal written about them, including here on the forum. A good place to begin your search might be Robertson's trading post. Flapjack.

+1 on the police trade ins. At the last Kenner show, a guy had S&W M&P .45ACP with night sites for $399. My brother bought one in Mississippi for about the same price. I have seen several S&W 9mm for less.

I have a .45 ACP M&P and I load 200gr target loads for it. Recoil is about the same as a 9mm and it is accurate.

At some gun shows you can buy these.

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Corripe Cervisiam

While I second the opinions of those who say a .22 is the way to start, heck that vast majority of folks on the form started this way, I would look hard at the XD. Yes it is more of a tool then some guns (but those guns that really get me excited are much more expensive), but I own a .40 and 9mm and they are rock sold on performance, easy to maintain, and quite honestly I do not worry about the finish like I do on a gun costing 4x the price. I really think they deliver a great product for the price and have several (non-gunnut) friends who have been very happy with them. That said, I can also point you toward several folks who share the same view about Glocks.

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always trust your cape...

Yes, but most dealers won't follow that law. At my store, we won't transfer the weapon without the NICS approval to "proceed". The 4473 is valid for 30 days. If no response is received from NICS by then, we void the 4473 and file it away.

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Proud USAF Dad

My thought on this is there's something missing (not intentionally) from the OP's situation. If you had a "NIC's wait" and didn't get a response from them in 72 hrs., would you feel comfortable going to another dealer an having a NIC's check run on another gun. Granted, when the check hits the system it will "bump into" the prior hold. But it should be legal?

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SOS USA

Is this 72 business hours? I'm starting to wonder what the deal is

It's 3 business days.

Going to another dealer is perfectly legal, but expect the same result. The NICS check was put into a "delay" status for a reason.

ATF agent explained to me, years ago, that when NICS wants to look into something, they have to contact another agency, such as a local jurisdiction that can answer their question. Most of the time they're just looking to see that something was cleared up. However, NICS is at the mercy of that agency to get back to them, and some never do. That's why the 3 day clause exists. If you don't get an answer within 30days, your app is void. At that point, you can contact NICS to find out why you were delayed. You'll need the NICS transaction #, which the dealer can give you. (it's assigned when the NICS check is requested) If the dealer can't/won't give you the info on how to contact NICS, PM me.

Edited to add: I once had an Army Major get denied. ***? He got Army CID involved because of his clearance issues. Turned out he had just recently been a victim of identity theft, and the thief did something bad. The denial actually saved him a lot of further troubles. I only know this because he came back to me to let me know what happened. PS...bad guy was swiftly caught and the Major got his new Glock

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Proud USAF Dad

Thanks, I will

Will they not tell me anything before 30 days? I was thinking of calling today