After reading many positive reviews, I recently purchased my first can of Kroil, and first jar of Renaissance Wax. I've been trying them both a little, and thought I'd post my initial opinions. I had not known about gun waxing until I read about it on the forums. I'm not an expert, but I've owned and maintained guns for 40+ years, mostly with Hoppes brand oil and solvents.

The Kroil is absolutely wonderful. I wish I had a gallon of it in a clear glass jug so I could admire it. I've cleaned a few guns with it, and freed up a very stubborn 99 yr old gummed up cylinder, and I can tell already that it definitely beats the other popular brands on my workbench. Two thumbs up for sure. It works better for me in the mini oil can shown in the pic, seems I waste less and can get it where I want it easier.

Now I know this will be a can of worms, but I have to bring this up, in the interest of striving for the best. I wasn't really as impressed with the Ren Wax as I thought I'd be. I'd like to see if anyone else had a similar impression, so please bear with me, since I'm still experimenting. I was expecting the white haze, and then to wipe it clean and feel the slick shiny barrier, like when I wax the car. Instead, it behaved more like paste wax does on wood, or shoe polish on leather ... kind of smeary at first, and requiring a bit of buffing. Afterward, I don't really feel the protective barrier that I expected, and fingerprints don't seem to wipe off as easily as car wax. I actually liked it alot better for the holsters and wood stocks, than I did for the gun.

The Mother's California Gold carnauba wax that I use on the car is one of the best, and will bead water for a year if I keep the car in the garage, and 4 to 6 months out in the sun & weather. I dont see the paste waxes being that durable. While the Ren is a good all around product for the museum documents and delicate artifacts, I'm still on the fence about it on hard smooth surfaces. I wonder if something mild enough for paper documents is going to be tough enough for gun steel. Sometimes an all purpose product can sacrifice a little at the extremes.

So I know that many car waxes have mild cleaning abrasives which I know should not be used on guns, but I did locate some abrasive free carnauba waxes designed for fine musical instrument finishes. One is Gerlitz, and the other is Clayton, and I am not affiliated with either. For the blue or nickel guns, I almost feel like the hard carnauba wax could provide a more effective barrier to finger oils, condensation, etc, than the paste waxes. I've heard back from the owner of Gerlitz, and he assured me that there are no abrasives in his carnauba instrument wax, and he's going to send me a complimentary can to experiment with, since I inquired and told him about the gun waxing. He is interested to hear about the results. When it arrives, I'll try it out to see how it behaves. I know it will have to be kept away from frosty or rusted areas, and oiled wood, but either way, it could be easily stripped back off of smooth surfaces with alcohol or Kroil. In the meantime, I've tried some other car wax on an old revolver, and the results are looking excellent. The wax wipes off very nicely, and the gun has a nice shine and feel.

At this point, to me, for a "working" gun that I carry, tinker with, clean, and lube on a regular basis, I think the oily rag wipedown is sufficient. For the perfect finishes that sit in a fuzzy pistol rug in a safe, I can definitely see the benefits of the waxed finish and the moisture barrier it can provide, as well as a good clean shine with no oil smears. Good for photos too.

My questions. Has anyone tried any car type waxes or carnauba wax on a gun? Does anyone know of any articles or testing of different types of waxes and their effects on blue or nickel gun finishes?

The can of Gerlitz instrument wax will be here any day. Will update.

Josh P

I've used Kroil as a Lubricant/protectant for 20 years on my guns
and love the stuff. Never have "waxed" a gun of any kind. I'll
leave the waxing to my F-150.


chuck

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They hold no Quarter

I was recently allowed a peek at the preservation center at the National Firearms Museum (AKA the NRA Museum). Renaissance Wax is all they use. Although when speaking with the head of that area, it was "micro-crystalline wax" that he kept repeating, not the brand name. Renaissance Wax is used exclusively there and sold in the gift shop. RW is used by museums world wide not only for guns but for the preservation of all things metal and wood.

Renaissance Wax is not intended to "feel" a certain way it is intended to protect the guns. Apparently the NFM will only use "micro-crystalline" wax to protect what must be the finest gun collection in the world. If it is good enough for them...

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Dave

I can't really say that I have any "Safe Queens" so I do not own/use the Ren. Wax product. I shoot my guns on a regular basis, and after cleaning them I just wipe them down with a clean flannel cloth with RIG #2 Oil on it. That has worked for me for the past 30+ years.

If I did have a Show Piece that did not get shot and was just for admiring, I would probably get the Ren. Wax and give it a shot.

I do have Kroil on my bench and I do use it for stubborn screws, bolts, rusted parts of machinery and equipment, but for as for rust prevention on firearms I like the RIG Universal Grease and he RIG #2 Oil products.

Chief38

John,
Sounds to me that you might be putting the RW on too thick. Try a thinner coat and see what the results are.....

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Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446

I like to polish my nickel plated guns with Mother's and then wipe them down with Johnson's Paste Wax. It works well enough for me.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I have been experimenting with Ren wax on the wood stocks with good results but have not yet graduated to blue steel. Does the gun metal need to be completely degreased first and, if so, what is the most effective and safe degreaser to use?

Russ

Renaissance also makes a product called "Prelim" that is a very, very mild abrasive (I believe similar to Flitz) that works well on metal. I have found that it doesn't work all that well on wood as it will tend to leave a whitish residue in any scratchs, gouges, dings or pores in the wood.

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Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446

If it's good enough for the NRA and British Museums it will work for me. I do believe the continued use WILL NOT cause or have wax build up effects.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I own a high end automotive detailing company, and I can give you a few pointers for car wax use on guns.

Your current Mothers California Gold is whats called a "pure" carnauba wax, as in its a wax without cleaners. Any abrasive cleaners in a wax will be labled on the can/bottle as "cleaner" wax. You can use what you have, go to the Harley Davidson dealership and pick up S100 Carnauba, or you can use any type of sealant on the market (a sealant is a man made formula often having longer durability and dirt repellancy than a carnauba).

I often wax my gun metal and wood with car wax. It keeps fingerprints easier to wipe off, the wood looking nice and the whole firearm protected. I also use any sort of vinyl or rubber dressing on any rubber parts such as the buttplate, synthetic stocks etc.

I wasn't impressed with my first wax job either, but after the initial pain went away..........

It is getting closer to swimsuit time! Ouch!

When I use Renaissance I apply it with my finger, just touching the wax in the container, then applying a very thin coat to the gun. A micro-fiber towel works very well for polishing, also a cotton rag. I haven't tried the others mentioned here, but find that Renaissance does a great job on my blued guns.

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Endeavor to persevere. <><

kcmitch-that's exactly the way i use and it seems to work fine that way. the micofiber towel is great.

+1 Me too.

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Dave

I've used NU-Finish 2000 for many years.

I just love the aroma of Kroil, right up there with Hoppes, in my opinion.

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Recycled Bricklayer

I can only speak to my experience with Ren Wax. I like the product and to me, works great on my nickel finish Smiths. I am sure that there are other products out there that will do the job just as well, but I prefer Ren Wax. Just my opinion.

OP here, and thanks for the comments. I'd like to stress the fact that I'm not knocking the Ren Wax, and I do not doubt that micro crystalline is a great product for firearms, I'm just trying to take it a step further to see if it is the "best" for the actual metal part.

For me, the biggest reason for waxing, is moisture protection / rust prevention, and that is the reason for experimenting with the car & instrument waxes.

As for the NRA museum, that's great, and I would not doubt that paste wax works well, but for museum pieces in a climate controlled room, moisture & condensation are probably not an issue. I don't expect museum guns to be taken out in the rain and snow on hunting trips, or carried for 12 hrs in a leather holster or in pants pocket soaked with sweat, rain, mud, etc. To them, it may have been more important to have one product that works well for metal, leather, wood, and paper, rather than the moisture barrier that I'm looking for.

Glossy Tundra, my can of Calif Gold says "cleaner wax" on the can, but I did try it on an old gun, and it worked great. The abrasives aren't coarse enough to scratch, but I suppose it could wear a finish thin if you rubbed enough, so the pure carnauba is what I want to try. No need to spend $100 at the Harley shop, the guitar wax in my original post is pure carnauba for about $6 a can.

My next experiment will have to wait until the weather warms up. I want to compare the different waxes on the trunk lid of my car to see how they compare. I encourage anyone to try whatever non abrasive car wax you have on a gun frame and see how it feels when you wipe it down with a microfiber or flannel cloth, and let me know what you think.

JP

OP, I like that you are testing these products in the conditions you have to endure. I look forward to the updates, and what products work for you.

guitar1580, It's S100 not $100. Gooood stuff.

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Dum vivo cano

Glad to see what you have works, but dont use it more than on occasion. The cleaners will fade the finish over time. S-100 is only $15 .

Yes I have heard that the S100 is good, but it seemed expensive the last time I checked our local Harley shop. My non Harley friends kid me that HD stands for "hundred dollars" every time you go to the shop.

Yes, I wouldn't recommend the "cleaner" style wax for guns. The guitar wax is abrasive free, and the complimentary can from Harvey Gerlitz should be here tomorrow. I think it's going to work very nicely on a clean smooth S&W.

JP

Soo, You were joking.

Anyhow, I've never waxed a gun either.

Good thread and I'll be watching for more results.

$100. You got me.

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Dum vivo cano

I did not like RW. On NIB blued gun it enhanced fine swirls from factory! I like Flitz and Mom's mag pol, they clean and protect. I see folks on here say that Flitz is abreasive, but the container says it's not. Flapjack.

Ren Wax works well on pocket knives, but requires fairly soon reapplication if you carry the knife daily. I tried it on an old Ruger 10-22 stock, and I think the wood looks darker now, although it may be my immagination.

Yes flapjack, I like the Flitz too, but I've only used it on my nickel N frame, not a blue gun. I always thought Flitz and Mother's were both abrasive.

I finally got the Gerlitz guitar wax this week and tried it on an early 90's red Ibanez Voyager, and a 70s blue S&W model 10, neither of which have perfect finishes.

I have to commend Harvey Gerlitz for personally answering my questions promptly, and for sending me the complimentary can, and the super soft fuzzy rag, in appreciation of my interest / questions. I told him I'd recommend it on the guitar and gun forums, "if" I like it.... and I definitely do.

It performs much like any good carnauba car wax, but without the scents, colorings, abrasives, etc. It seemed easy to work with, and definitely leaves a lasting protective slick shiny barrier which seems like it will last. I did not use it on the stocks, but shined them with Ren Wax.

For hunting or working guns which may be subjected to rain, sweat, or moisture, I think the Gerlitz carnauba wax could be highly effective in rust prevention.

For the old red banged up guitar - thumbs up also. It is dull from pick marks below the strings, and would actually shine much better if I rubbed it out with some very fine compound that I have, but it would just get scratched up again. I just gave the red paint one waxing, without removing the strings or detailing the bridge and black hardware. It shined up quite nicely, and it feels like the paint has a protective layer ... although it's as slippery as a greased hog ... it almost shot out of my lap while I was putting the back covers back on.

All in all, I'm not saying that the instrument wax is better or worse than Ren, Johnson's, or old fashioned oiling, but I'd say it is up there with them, and a viable option for some guns & some situations. Nice shine, slick pocket draw, great moisture & fingerprint barrier, holds up very well. I would recommend it, and will continue to use it.

The new server rocks, lots of pics here, hope ya'll like. Let me know what you think. Waxing the Harley next ... think spring.

Josh P

I'll take both. PM to follow!

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Still Running Against the Wind

Sounds good Roy. As per standard modern practice, just go ahead and send a blank check.

JP

I can't help myself... here goes... "wax on... wax off"

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Isaiah 55:8-9
Phil. 4:13

I let the REN wax sit overnight after application before buffing off.

You are obviously NOT applying the Renaissance wax/polish properly. Please conatct me.
thank you,
Dennis

I am The Exclusive U.S. Agent/Wholesale-Distributor since 1993
for Picreator Enterprises Ltd. of London, England.
Manufacturer of 'Renaissance micro-crystalline wax/polish','Vulpex liquid soap','Pre-Lim surface cleaner','Renaissance metal decorroder','GroomStick archival cleaner'& other unique restoration supplies used by museums, galleries, professionals, manufacturers, retailers & collectors Worldwide!

Dennis Blaine
6819 S.E. Sleepy Hollow Lane
Stuart, FL. 34997-4757

Phone 772-219-0436 [USA] 1-800-229-5530
Cell 772-631-4156
Fax 772-219-7674
Email: [email protected]

Years ago I started doing some serious hunting. Before
that, I was a fair weather hunter. Hunting in all conditions,
and everyday soon had me worried about rust. Started using
Johnson's car wax. That, and oily rags were all I used prior to
learning about RenWax here on the Forum. So impressed with
it, that All the firearms have a coat of RenWax now.
Hey, whatever works; just so you're happy with the results.
(Haven't had a chance to show this one for a while.)
TACC1

Attached Images

ESCORT M61 3.jpg (60.6 KB, 135 views)

I've had good luck with RW - I use it by putting a small amount on my finger and rubbing it in circlular motion in a small area - cont. to do that overlapping each prior area when doing the next area. Easy to buff off since it is going on in a thin layer. Once buffed, I find that finger prints do not show - so if you have finger prints that are tough to get off, something is not right. Either your firearm was oily or you put the RW on to thick and didn't get it all buffed out. Try a small area using your finger as above and see if that works better.

Naturally, it's your firearm, so use whatever you are happy using, but I think RW works great. Here are a couple of photos of mine after R/Waxing:

DSC01240 (Medium).jpg

DSC01295 (Medium).JPG


Pete

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Don't tread on me

Lesson one, Daniel-san: