I own many firearms, 4 hand guns but zero wheel-guns. I dont want to spend $700 ither. Im guessing a .357. Looking for stopping power without the posibility of semi-auto jam. .25 is too small. .38 ammo is near the same as .357 (right?) .44 or larger my wife(&wallet) would fear.

What are your thoughts? What do you own? Cost to shoot? Post links if you can.
Thank you
Basic

New S&W's can be pretty pricey but I like them a lot(don't own any yet). Go for a .357mag K or L-frame like the Model 686 so that the heft can soak up the recoil. You'll be able to shoot .38 special & .357 magnum. You can find .38 special for about $15 or so a box. Try to find it used so you don't have to pay so much. (Might want to check out the Ruger .357's as well...Don't know if I'm allowed to say that on this forum lol).

You're looking for stopping power. Overlooked here so far are the fixed sight revolvers, the Model 13 and 65. Don't think that they are not worthy of some good, fun plinking sessions at the range, because they are. In short they are every bit as much fun to shoot and reliable, trustworthy guns are their adjustable sight cousins.
The 13 is the blued .357, and the 65 is stainless. The only problem you'll likely face is that it'll be harder for you to find one (what does that tell you?)

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Geoff. Since 1960.

There are some deals out there on Dan Wessons from time to time. look for a gun made in Monson, Mass., the Plamer and Norwich guns quality control was a bit spotty. You may have to look a bit, gunbroker.com and gunsamerica.com, has them listed.

Wrong forum BTW. But s&w 686 or the Ruger GP100. If money is an option, get a used 686, they haven't really changed, except there is a seven shot option.

Rent some at the range then decide which one.

I walked in to a gs a month ago, set to buy a S&W 642 Airweight, but walked out with a Ruger LCR. Love it.
Lighter and better trigger. Ymmv.

Because this is the forum for a 22 caliber rifle, and because no one else has mentioned the elephant in the room, I will.

People say the 40 S&W is "snappy" and harsh shooting, compared to the 357 Magnum it's a Powder Puff. Seriously, 3 or 4 cylinders of range ammo and you'll understand why probably 95% of 357 Magnum owners shoot the much milder 38 spl. in these revolvers 95% of the time. That stiff recoil means that recovery time will be extended and accuracy will also likely suffer due to poor recoil management.

Another issue is that the 357 Magnum has a distinctly LOUD report and this is one reason why I think it's a poor choice for a Defense caliber. Shoot a 357 Magnum indoors without any hearing protection and it's a near certainty that you WILL lose some of your hearing. How much depends on how big the room is and how much soft furnature is in that room. Fire a 357 Magnum in a hallway and you'll probably lose all of your hearing. Yeah, they are that LOUD.

Now for a bit of good news. That is that any 357 Magnum can also be used with 38 spl., 38 +P, or 38/44 loadings. All of which work well for defense provided you shoot straight. As for the differences, in terms of Muzzle Energy the 38 spl. runs around 200 ft.lbs, the 38 +P around 250 ft.lbs. and the 38/44 can get up to 350-450 ft.lbs. BTW, the 38/44 is basically a custom loading that led to the development of the 357 Magnum and today only Buffalo Bore markets a load I would classify as a 38/44 loading, see the following link.

Heavy .38 Special +P Pistol & Handgun Ammunition

Revolvers. First, for a first 357 Magnum I recomend going with a revolver that has some mass. At near 700 ft.lbs. of muzzle energy for some loads starting out with a 340PD that weighs under 12 ounces is IMO just plain STUPID. I would recomend the S&W 686, Ruger GP-100, or S&W model 627, all in a 4 inch barrel length. If yourbudget is tight, the 686 will be both the easiest and likely most economical to find, it's been produced in very large numbers and good used samples are easy to find. Prices for a used 4 inch 686 should run between 375 and 525 dollars, depending on condition. You can also sometimes find used Rugers in 357 Magnum at slightly lower prices but it's a matter of luck in finding them.

Because there are specific issues in terms of function with revolvers I would suggest that you find a real revolver specialist to go with you whenever considering the purchase of a used revolver. At the least you'll want to do a google search on "how to check a revolver" and do some reading. However, some of these net postings are INCORRECT in some aspects of checking timing so don't assume any net article is truely correct.

I have a Taurus model 66 .357 magnum in stainless. Also shoots .38 special. Great, accurate gun and it's a clone of the S&W model 66. Steet price around $400.

It's also available in several barrel lengths and in a blued finish.

Ah yes - Taurus.
A pistol for those who demand a product from a foreign manufacturer with spotty (at best) quality control - Ah yes....

Since you dropped into the S&W forum - How about this?

You can obtain a used S&W Model 10 (38 Special) and learn to shoot it competently. A .357 Magnum is great for shootouts with goblins in cars and trucks, but for in the house the .38 Special is a way better choice.

The M-10 is a true classic - and everyone needs at least one anyway.

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In dog years I'm dead.

Well, you obviously don't like Taurus. Mine has been a reliable shooter and extremely accurate. And the fit and finish is excellent.

Yeah, it's made in Brazil not the USA.

As far as the .357 mag goes it gives you the option of .38 special or .357 so it seems to be the best of both world as far as choosing whatever caliber suits your fancy.

I just posted a less expensive alternative to some of the other choices.

I agree that a .357 in stainless steel with four-inch barrel is the best basic revolver. DO NOT get one of the small .357's, which have horrible recoil and muzzle blast.

The recommendations for the S&W M-66 or 686 or the Ruger GP-100 are very sound. You can always just shoot .38 ammo if you find .357 too loud and too strong in recoil.

If your only purpose is home defense, you will load .38 ammo, anyway, as the .357 is too loud indoors, as one man mentioned above. Use .38 Plus P ammo unless you are outdoors and may need to kill a big dog or a cougar, bear, etc. In Ill., this is unlikely, but if you camp, or hike, large feral dogs and maybe a bear are factors. So are some human adversaries, especially if on drugs. But a well chosen .38 load will usually stop people, and you can't use .357 indoors! It will play havoc with your hearing.

BUT... in your state, can you even legally carry a gun outside of your home? If not, concealment isn't a factor.

I would definitely limit my brand choices to S&W and Ruger, and I would not buy a new S&W, as I do not tolerate the lock incorporated in them. We can't discuss that much as a matter of board policy, but I'd buy an older gun, from the 1990's or the '80's. You can find them virtually new. Many feel that quality control was better then, too. Ruger's quality has been pretty consistent. If anything, their present guns are better than those from a decade or more ago. The main difference that I've noted is that their extractor rods don't rattle as much as they once did on the smaller SP-101 model.

Many ex-cop guns are on the market, so you may find an M-65 S&W. I'd definitely get stainless over blue or nickel in a serious using gun. You still need to do maintenance, but it's less urgent. And there is no exterior finish to wear off and look bad. You can polish small scratches off of a stainless gun, too, and if it gets wet, it probably won't rust until you can clean and oil it. Salt water spray is still very dangerous to guns, though, if you go near or on the ocean.

If you look at a K (medium frame) S&W, especially check the barrel throat for cracks. A relative few have suffered cracked forcing cones from using very hot 125 grain Magnum ammo. Do not fire that in these guns. It offers exceptional stopping power but is loud and is abusive to guns. Use it only in L (Med. large) or N (large) S &W's or in Rugers, which are better designed to handle a long diet of hot ammunition. If you fire only.38 Special loads and occasional 158 grain bullet .357's, even the K-frame guns stand up well. In general, try to limit .357 use in these guns to maybe 15% of ammo fired. You need that power only occasionally, anyway. And mostly in the outdoors.

Hang around here and read the posts about revolvers and ammo. There is a separate ammo forum. Read that. You will get as many opinions as respondents, but I think you'll see a trend to concur with what I posted here.

I DO NOT support using other brands of revolver for a first one. Colt's DA guns are out of production and older Colt designs have cylinder timing issues, and parts and service are now spotty. Foreign brands are either very expensive here (Manurhin and Korth) or have iffy reputations. They also have lower resale value! Many dispute the service policy of one South American company as being very good in practice. They get a lot of complaints on the Net.

Look around and read a lot. But there is a very good reason why the S&W basic police type guns were so popular. They are reliable, not too big and heavy, and they are extremely accurate in the right hands. And there are a lot on the used market.

I love all things Smith and Wesson, but this is the gospel truth! A friend of mine bought the LCR, and it had an astonishingly excellent trigger. The likes of which haven't been seen by thyn eyes in ages! That Ruger is a homerun!

If I were a Brazilian living in the USA I would probably buy a Taurus and not even care about their QC.
HOWEVER - I'm an American living in the USA and support the other folks that work for a living to support their families here in the USA.
Somehow I see that as more important than saving a few bucks. If I do need to save a few bucks I buy used MADE IN THE USA stuff whenever possible.

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In dog years I'm dead.

It depends upon what you want.

A few years ago, there were a lot of 3" and 4" 65s floating around. On the other hand, good luck finding a 3" 13 for anything like a reasonable price. I didn't see any here at gunshows at ANY price. I wanted one for a carry gun and eventually gave up. I settled for a 3" 65. I don't like stainless, but the 3" 13/65 is such an ideal configuration for a defensive revolver that it overcame my dislike for stainless. In fact it's the ONLY stainless gun I've EVER owned.

The recommendation for going to a range and shooting several different revolvers is an excellent idea. I recommend staying away from the smaller framed guns (Jframe and the LCR) unless the purpose is strictly self defense and you practice A LOT. Used Kframe S&W's are an excellent choice if weight is a factor. The Lframes are more durable, the Nframes are indestructable. My personal favorites are the Model 27 and Model 28. If you look around alot and are patient you will find a Model 27 in your price range. Model 28's are much easier to find for less than $600.00. Both are actually the same gun, just the 28's are not finished as finely.

Good luck in your search!

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Even older, even crankier....

If cost is an issue, you're not going to find any revolver - other than a .22 - that is as cheap to feed as a 9mm auto. On a limited budget, you're also going to be stuck looking for used revolvers as well (at least if you want a Colt or S&W), which might mean that you'll get one that is actually going to be less reliable compared to a value priced semi auto pistol. You have to know what to look for when shopping for a used revolver, and if this is your first one, there might be a learning curve.

People complain about the cost of .357 Sig ammo at times, yet it is actually generally cheaper than .357 mag.

If you can find someone to take with you, go poke around and try to find a fixed sight K frame in .38 special. Load it with 158gr +P LSWCHP ammo - which you'll probably have to order. You'll also want to (heresy I know) put a Hogue monogrip or some such on it.

An L frame 686 or a Colt Python would be a better, probably top of the heap offering and you'd have a nice .357, but neither is cheap (even used/abused). Around here a decent shooting used 686 is 500 dollars or more.

Otherwise... Glock, Sigma or even (gasp) Hi Point 9mm pistols are going to be a better bet.

FWIW, I picked up a Smith M65-5, 3" bbl with a box of 357 JHP for $420 last November. About a month ago l found a M66-2, 4" bbl, matching box and papers, for $440 (i missed that one, though, in a moment of brain freeze!). My point is that, once you decide on the perfect S&W revolver for your needs, keep yer eyes open and sooner or later you will find what exactly you're looking for at a very reasonable price. Guns like that are out there. Be patient grasshopper!

Blessings,
Hog

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Isaiah 55:8-9
Phil. 4:13

How true.
Also - Haunt the classified section here at this forum.
Good stuff from good folks.

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In dog years I'm dead.

[QUOTE=Basic;136460717]I own many firearms, 4 hand guns but zero wheel-guns. I dont want to spend $700 ither. Im guessing a .357. Looking for stopping power without the posibility of semi-auto jam. .25 is too small. .38 ammo is near the same as .357 (right?) .44 or larger my wife(&wallet) would fear.

What are your thoughts? What do you own? Cost to shoot? Post links if you can.
Thank you

I friend of mine who carries all the time just bought a Ruger LCR .
The Ruger Lightweight Compact Revolver (LCR), a 13.5 ounce, small frame revolver with a smooth, easy-to-control trigger and highly manageable recoil.
He got the .38+P model. I got to shoot it last week. It is light, and has one of the best out of the box DA tiggers I have ever fired. Recoil was hard but I was able to get back on target quickly.

He got it because his semi-auto had a few hickups as they all do. He teaches CCW classes and thought that 5 out the barrel every time was better than a semi in one shot mode.
The same reason cops carried Revolvers for 70 years.
There are speedloaders for the gun.

Cost ~ $450.00 out the door.
Used $400.00 or under.

I am thing about getting one. They make them in .22lr, and
.357 also. I think the .357 would be a bear to hold.
Guy22

I just got my 686 plus a month ago 2 1/2 " barrel and let me tell you it is a fine revolver trigger is like butter. I went to the range yesterday and shot about 150 rounds of 38 130gr and some of my 125 gr plus p gold saber defense ammo as well as 50 of the 158 gr 357 all performed flawlessly out of my gun and the hot 357 did not bother me one bit I killed a small zombie target at 15 yards 12 of my 14 rounds were spot on the kill zone and one head shot. donnot overlook the 686 I was very impressed and don't. regret it one bit.

Thank you all.

I didnt expect this much homework on the first day of class.
Im more than willing to dive in, again thanks. Feel free to continue. Maybe some pictures of what you own/enjoy
Basic

Check this out Basic, a S&W Governor. You get to use .410 shotgun,.45ACP and .45 Colt all in one pistol. Fun gun and very accurate and all for about $600 plus tax. Mine is my EDC loaded with .410 Federal 000 Buck for those up close and personal moments. Good Luck!.

Good advise here from DeadAye - and you can pick up a M-10 shooter for under $300 just about anywhere. Once you have mastered it and you still think that you just have to have that .357 Mag (cause you do) - look at all the models and go shopping for the one that trips your trigger the best.

Pete

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Don't tread on me

Grand grief, Charlie Brown! That is about the last thing I'd suggest for a revolver beginner!

The Guv has very low recoil,is easy to handle,fits my hand perfectly and is easy conceal. It has less "Snap" than my 642 and I`m shooting 230gr .45ACP!. So why would a first time buyer have any trouble with it??.I don`t understand?.

I have to jump on the 686 bandwagon. I have owned one in 4inch for many years and it has never failed. Smooth to shoot but as mentioned it does make a pretty good bang with .357 mags.s&w .357 mag 686-3.JPG

That looks a bit bigger than what Im thinking.

And as for taurus.. I can one up ya, My first hand gun was a .380a HIGHPOINT. Yep, I said it, HighPoint! I know cheap let me tell ya. I just had to have it, make a great doorstop

I like the look of this

and most anything with a 3.5 - 4 inch barrel

Iv not heard of Charter Arms.

Lust factor of 10 !!


But its a 500, I fear looking for the price. Ibet she runs 800 or better.
Is there anything out there with looks that could kill & will not cost a dollar with every pull?

Don't sell the .38 spl short. The lighter recoil and accuracy are more important than the power of the mag.
Ammo cost is also a good reason. Georgia Arms sells great quality practice ammo for $12-14/ 50 rds. This compares well with 9mm.
The final fact is a good used Model 10 will cost $100 LESS than a Model 13 or 65!
MOST IMPORTANT! They are just FUN!

Every thread needs a pic or two.

Attached Images

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	IMG_0639.jpg (119.1 KB, 20 views)

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Field Researcher. IGC

The best thing to do is look at several different revolvers at a gun shop if you can, I had a Model 13 that was a nice gun, but there are the Model 19's and either a 586 or 686 will work too. Don't forget the Model 28 if you can handle the larger size handgun.
You were asking if the .38 Special is like the .357 Magnum in power, well they are not. The .357 averages 1,200 fps plus while the .38 Special has much less.

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Vaya con Dios

I find my Ruger Security Six adequate for me; 4" 357 SS. It was cheap, bought last year for $265 OTD. There are still deals to be had.