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08-12-2024, 11:41 AM
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Plumbing repair gone wrong - my fault
I don’t consider myself a “bubba” when it comes to home repairs but botched this one. I had a back flow preventer on an outside faucet that was leaking badly. Needed to take it off and replace. They have a set screw that locks them on the faucet. Checked out you tube. Only way to get them off is to drill out set screw or cut off with dremel. Should have used the dremel method. Either way be careful not to damage the faucet (bib). I was carefully drilling out the set screw and bit went through bib. I think the dremel method using cut off wheel would have been better. Fortunately I have a plumber friend who owes me work and is coming this evening to replace the faucet.
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08-12-2024, 12:43 PM
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They strategically placed the set screw on the bottom of all 3 of mine. I used needle nose pliers, and pulled the guts out of one.
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08-12-2024, 12:48 PM
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New to me, never heard of putting a BFP on a hose bib. What is the purpose?
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08-12-2024, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt
New to me, never heard of putting a BFP on a hose bib. What is the purpose?
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Prevent back flow contaminated water from getting into water system if you left hose in a bucket, etc. My front bib doesn’t have one. Some codes require them. the set screw has a break off head so once it is in the head is broken off so the device can’t be removed without cutting it off or drilling out set screw. A real pain in the you know what.
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08-12-2024, 01:02 PM
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I noticed at my sister's in Charleston, SC, every hose bib I saw had a backflow preventer screwed on. Never saw any set screws, though. I would think the only reason would be if the hose was in a swimming pool or watering trough it would keep that water from siphoning back into the water co.'s supply lines.
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08-12-2024, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wood714
They strategically placed the set screw on the bottom of all 3 of mine. I used needle nose pliers, and pulled the guts out of one.
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Looks like mine.
Picture after I finally cut it off only to discover I had drilled through the bib threads. Should have cut first
rather than trying to drill out the screw. A dremel cut off wheel will cut through the brass easily.
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08-12-2024, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrefrig
I noticed at my sister's in Charleston, SC, every hose bib I saw had a backflow preventer screwed on. Never saw any set screws, though. I would think the only reason would be if the hose was in a swimming pool or watering trough it would keep that water from siphoning back into the water co.'s supply lines.
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It is there believe me. They have a rubber washer just like a hose and if that goes bad over time or it fails you can’t get the thing without destroying it or the faucet or both 😩
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08-12-2024, 05:25 PM
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If you think the codes here can be a pain on BFP valves, you should try living in the UK. There will be no backflow, ever, is the mantra over there. Even mixer faucets don't actually mix the hot and cold until it is falling through the air.
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08-12-2024, 08:38 PM
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I take a hacksaw and cut 3 slices in it . That relieves the bop enough that I can take pliers and take it off . Like the drill and dermal method , just don't cut too far . If you do , just take a small file and dress up the threads .
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08-12-2024, 09:12 PM
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Just keep the hose out of the pool, birdbath, pond etc where it can siphon water back into your home. Be smart. Think for ourselves!
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08-12-2024, 09:59 PM
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Over the last 50 years, I've had to remove a few hundred things from threaded faucets. (Between the Laundry Rooms and the outdoor faucets at the Apartments) When anything is stuck, don't try to just unscrew it. The hacksaw or Dermal Tool is your best bet. Usually, one good slice all the way to the threads, stich a flat screwdriver in the cut and twist. That should break everything free, then unscrew it. I saw many of my men not follow instructions and break off the hose bibs!
If you cut deep enough to cut through a couple of the threads, use Teflon Tape or pipe dope when screwing on the newest appliance.
For those of you not used to cold winters: Remove the hose from the outdoor faucets before the temp. drops. The "Frost Caulk" will freeze and sometime not leak until you turn the water on in the Spring. I have silver soldiered these back together, but it is a mess either way!
Ivan
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08-12-2024, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaTom
I don’t consider myself a “bubba” when it comes to home repairs but botched this one. I had a back flow preventer on an outside faucet that was leaking badly. Needed to take it off and replace. They have a set screw that locks them on the faucet. Checked out you tube. Only way to get them off is to drill out set screw or cut off with dremel. Should have used the dremel method. Either way be careful not to damage the faucet (bib). I was carefully drilling out the set screw and bit went through bib. I think the dremel method using cut off wheel would have been better. Fortunately I have a plumber friend who owes me work and is coming this evening to replace the faucet.
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I'd tap the hole put in a machine screw with some sealer. Cut head off.....If in the threads. Just cut close and taker a triangular flle file bolt into the "valley" threads..........A one hr job at the most........Or cut your water off. Screw off the old bib and screw on a new one......20 min. job.
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08-13-2024, 08:32 AM
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Update- My plumber guy put in a freezeless / anti-siphon hose bib last night and also upgraded the interior shut off valve to a quarter turn lever type replacing the old style twist one. He is a master plumber and does great work. Recommended this type as the best. Our house is 40 years old.
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08-14-2024, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenna
Just keep the hose out of the pool, birdbath, pond etc where it can siphon water back into your home. Be smart. Think for ourselves!
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The back flow doesn't stop at my house, it can be sucked back into the municipal water system. I have heard of hoses in swimming pools sucking the pool nearly dry. Usually happens when there is a break in a main in a low area.
Here is one water company's explanation of how back flow happens. The real examples in the article don't sound real good!!
Backflow Prevention | Municipal Water Authority of Adams Township
73,
Rick
Last edited by riverrat38; 08-14-2024 at 10:39 PM.
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08-15-2024, 01:29 AM
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I know some municipal water systems require a BFP on the main supply line at the meter. If so, I do not see why BFPs on hose bibs would be needed. Likewise, some systems may require BFPs on lawn irrigation systems. We have no such BFP requirements here.
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08-15-2024, 01:55 AM
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"We have no such BFP requirements here."
Surprisingly, no such rules here in da Burgh, here, either (that I know of.) But, don't get us started on the NEC Codes on steroids!!
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08-15-2024, 07:41 AM
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Backflow preventers is a sore subject with me right now. On a lawn irrigation systems here code requires a BFP be installed 12" higher than the highest sprinkler head in your yard. That means you have to have a BFP sticking a foot high out of your yard wrapped with electric heat tape and covered with a fake plastic rock. It looks goofy and adds many hundreds of dollars to the cost plus if the heat tape fails the pipe will freeze and break. The new alternate method is to put a BFP high in your garage in the hot water tank closet where it stays warm from the gas HW tank and you save money and don't have an ugly fake rock in your front yard. My brand new house I just built is done this way and right before I moved in I show up and see water gushing out of the garage. The Backflow Preventer failed and water was spewing out from under the cap and and found a hole where the water pipes came in and went into and flooded my house. Luckily it only cost me about a grand because I have LVP and ceramic tile flooring and with the cleanup and dehumidifiers everything is now fine. I found out the BFP the lawn sprinkler guy used was for outdoors and for about 25 bucks more you can buy a dripless model that would have prevented this problem.
Last edited by Farmer17; 08-15-2024 at 07:47 AM.
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