I've been waiting on parts to come in before starting on this particular guitar. It is one of the entry level Squier pieces that was dropped onto the bottom strap button, pushing it in a 1/8th inch. I had already drilled out and installed 1/2 inch oak plugs to remount both strap buttons and changed out the saddles to vintage telecaster style but with intonation. However, the list of issues/upgrades wanted on this one was a bit longer.

The fingerboard was supposed to have a 9.5 inch radius but is closer to halfway between 7.25 and 9.5, and the fretwork left a lot to be desired. It has loads of fret buzz all over. I also wanted to change out the plastic nut with a bone and the standard tuners with split shaft tuners off a Affinity level Squier. I will be pulling all the original electronics out and replacing them upgrades such as CTS, Puretone, Wilkinson, etc.

Spent yesterday evening pulling the stock nut and the frets off the board. Then I sanded it down to a proper 9.5 inch radius going through 60, 150, 220, and 400 grits. I gave it a light coat of lemon oil to make cleanup of the superglue easier when I install the new frets. I know they went to laurel wood on the fretboards as it is cheaper, and it definitely is not rosewood. But, it is not bad looking at all.

As I get more done on it I will post a new thread now and then.

Attached Images

LaurelFingerboard.jpg (80.6 KB, 63 views)

A piece of advice: In 4 decades of building, restoring and repairing guitars I have never used any type of glue/adhesive installing frets. Just tap them in, crown and dress with fret files.

Enjoy your project as bringing an inexpensive guitar to life is as pleasurable as making it sing.

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Music/Sports/Beer fan

I've been dabbling in it myself.
I cannot say mine is even as dignified as the squire as it's squirted from a roll of plastic filament.
It's interesting though. first you approach it for the novelty of a 3D printed instrument, then you revisit it with much greater respect as these things punch well above their weight.

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it just needs more voltage

There are usually multiple paths to reach the same destination.

Well, you get what you pay for, and sometimes even highly rated tools turn out to be duds. Got the frets installed and leveled. Went to crown them before dressing the fret ends and the inexpensive tool I got for that does not do much anything. So now I am waiting for a better, more expensive crowning file to come in. Hopefully the 15 5-star ratings are a better indicator of this one's function. Live and learn. Guess I will work on the electronics while I wait.

I always dress (level) the frets, when the strings are on, tuned up,
and the guitar's truss rod adjusted, if it has one.
Crowning/shaping is another task.
I only had to glue a fret in once, when the rosewood was too soft,
in that one slot, on the treble side.
Different tang widths, can be used, to bow a neck back, when the adjustable truss rod is broken.
Correct string gauge, is important to pull it up straight.

Pic of the back of my white Tux jacket.
Just turn around, don't miss a beat,
and answers the question.
Just kidding about the Tux, it's a picture hanging in a buddy's
NYC theater, that has lotsa live music.
I gifted it to her as a birthday gift for her 75th.

Attached Images

SOPSAX2.jpg (27.9 KB, 25 views)

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John, you probably addressed this in an earlier post, but do you play guitar as well, or is it that you just enjoy restoring them?

I don't play any musical instruments at all, but I do often find them beautiful as objects. E.g., violins or saxophones. I could see having a musical instrument or two around primarily for display.

I made sure the neck was straight before sanding in the 9.5 radius. Once I got the frets in I checked for straightness and adjusted the truss rod before leveling. I will adjust the truss rod for a bit of relief after I get everything else done and the strings back on, in tune, and stable.

One of my projects is a early '60s single pickup kids starter guitar with a 'steel reinforced neck' and no adjustment. The action height on it is about 4 to 5mm. Just like you said, I plan to get some oversize tang frets as well as normal frets of the same height and install however many oversized are needed to get the neck to just past straight with no string tension. They also managed to place the bridge on the body by measuring from the nut instead of the zero fret, so the intonation is way off. Plus the bridge is a simple metal bar with string slots lightly filed into it. I am going to install a Les Paul style intonating bridge and get everything measured up right.

I like the idea of using string gauge to get the right relief without a truss rod. Nice thought.

At this time I do not play. It really tickles the fancy of the tech in me to do this kind of work. That feeling probably comes from my paternal grandfather who was a carpenter and worked with his hands and brain all his life. I have given thought to learning how to play. It would be interesting to see if I have the coordination to match up the left and right hands on the strings.

Try the open D or G tuning.
Get a slide, and Rock On.
You might cut a higher nut and raise the bridge a bit.
Might be shopping for a Dobro soon after.
A Marshall head and two 4x10 cabinets?

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I can understand the geometry of Relief, for someone that uses a capo,
and just strums basic chords.
Never had a guitarist who wanted anything but a correct neck angle,
to the body, easy on a bolt on neck, a dead straight fingerboard,
and a slight lowering down, on the last few frets, as necessary.
Accomplished Rockers, Country, Jazz etc etc.

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The old style Les Paul type bridges, would bend concave.
I forget who made more robust bridges long ago.
Back in the early '70s, the crew at CBS/Columbia/Epic, would send the
new hopefuls, over to the shop, to install six piece bridges,
on Telecasters etc etc, so they played in tune.

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