Can you re-temper steel?

Bassamatic

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Out on my craftsman mower yesterday and hit a good sized root, banged around pretty good so I went back to the garage, jacked her up and pulled the bent blade. I used my cutting torch to heat it up-not a white hot- just a mild red and pounded her straight on my anvil. Went back and refinished the mowing, balance seemed good, no vibration at all.

Got to thinking about it today and wondered if I took out the temper with the first heating, could I re-heat the blade and dip it into some oil to re-temper it? Or not?
 
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Sir, I doubt there's much if any temper in a lawn mower blade. Most can be cut with a file. That makes sense when you think about it--a hard blade could shatter and fling shrapnel all over if you hit a rock or something.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
Might be best to just buy yourself a new blade, but to answer your question, yes, steel can be rehardened and drawn to the desired hardness - specifics depending on the type of steel.
 
Most lawnmower blades will be hardened to around a 40-50 Rockwell C-scale Hardness. Consider that a good knife blade will be around a 55-65 C-scale, and that will give you some idea of how hard a lawnmower blade actually is. If it was me, I'd just buy a new set and be done with it. YMMV.
 
If it was me, I'd just buy a new set and be done with it.

Yeah, you guys are right about just getting another blade but I must admit I am a "fixer" by nature. Think I got that from my dad.:)

Thanks for the input guys.
 
Yeah, you guys are right about just getting another blade but I must admit I am a "fixer" by nature. Think I got that from my dad.:)

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm a "fixer" also. I have a hard time parting with money for something new, when I can fix the old, sometimes better than new. :D
 
I have some rough terrain I insist on mowing....

Hear that. I mow a total of about 3 acres ( not all on the same day-;)) and it varies from fescue to small bushes to bluegrass that comes up to my seat. Plus any number of rocks, sticks and bees nests.

Hell, if I replaced a blade every time one got bent, I could save money by hiring someone else to do it.

I can pull a blade, straighten it and put it back on before the ice in your lemonade melts. Come to think of it, I'm kinda like Ralphie's old man in "Christmas Story." :D
 
Hear that. I mow a total of about 3 acres ( not all on the same day-;))

I hear that. I keep about 4 acres mowed plus various paths through some of my woods.. AND my 150 yard (so far) rifle range.... It's seriously a day project when I do everything. Plus I have to use the push mower (:mad:) for a good portion.. which I loathe........

My brother and I share 102 acres which requires a lot of upkeep... I was active duty Air Force until this past fall, and he enlisted Jan. 08.... so I have a LOT of catching up to do this year.....
 
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Look at it this way. A city contractor in Memphis had is tractors out cutting the weeds along the interstate a few years back. One of the tractors ran over a rock and threw one of the blades. The blade went through the windshield of a car and decapitated a woman driving on the interstate. The blade had been bent/heated/straightened/bent/heated/straightened/bent/heated/straightened and finally gave way. Every time the blade was heated and straightened it became more brittle. Is the potential for damage worth the replacement cost of a new blade(s).

Class III
 
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Sure it can. The other part of that is what is it and how should it be tempered if at all?

Iy is likely not tempered or quenched at all. It is after all a loawn mower blade not a blade for something requiring a specific Rockwell hardness or a set ammount of bend.

With all the variations, air quenched, water quenched, oil quenched, where it need to be heated and then cooled at a specific rate etc of a good knife/blade steel, I'd just bang it straight and not worry about it.

RWT
 
Not knowing the specifics of the steel involved, you'd be just guessing at trying to re-heat treat the blade. Temps involved, quench type , draw temps & times, etc.

If you're satisfied that it's straightened, not cracked and is balanced OK not to damage the engine, I'd not worry about any hardness beyond it having to be steel slicing off grass.

Soft is better than too hard & brittle. They file sharpen anyway when they are new and I doubt most have much tech put into the blade hardness. Probably recycled steel whatevers from China or India anyway.

Keep the guards in place!
 
First, a few specifics on heat treating of steels. Tempering is actually a process of reducing the hardness of steel, it's also referred to as "drawing it back". Fully hardened steels are quite brittle and have a high level of internal stress due to the quenching process that causes it to harden. Air hardening steels, which do not require quenching, will actually fracture into pieces just sitting on a shelf if they are not tempered. Properly tempering a specific alloy is actually a rather exacting process. The steel must first be heated to a specific temperature and then cooled at a specific rate. Bottomline, you realy cannot temper most steels without a special furnace designed for doing this. There are some exceptions, oil hardening steels such as O-1 or O-6 can be tempered in teh field by simply heating it to a specific temperature and then letting it air cool, for that you will need an infared thermometer that reads up to about 1200 degrees minimum, the level of temper is determined by the temperature it's tempered at.

Now, concerning lawn mower blades. I would expect that these are normally heat treated to achieve a hardeness in the range of 40-43 on the Rockwell C scale. This is commonly referred to as a "Low Spring Temper", an area which will resist bending but is not so hard to facture if it's hit too hard. BTW, 4140 steel can only be hardened to a range of 42-44 Rc unless it's carburized, so I would expect that many lawn mower blades are made with 4140 steel. It's also possible that they are made using "half hard" 4140 which has a hardness of 28-32 Rc, while it's bit soft it would be areal cost savings because it wouldn't require any post manufacturing heat treat and it's easily machined using Cobalt or Carbide cutting tools. A normal spring temper is in the range of 48 Rc and is hard enough that the part won't bend, it will either spring back to it's original shape or break.

Now to the original question. I would recomend replacing any mower blade that has been heated and straightened more that twice in any specific area. I would also recomend the purchase of an infared thermometer and it's use. After straightening the steel, heat it to 700 degrees and hold it at that temperature for a minimum of 1/2 hour. This will allow the steel to normalize and reduce the tendancy to fracture. However, it will produce a reduction in the hardness so the blade will dull faster than normal. Personally, I would not try to re-use a mower blade that has been bent, there is a real potential for internal fractures forming within the steel when it's bent. I should also point out that a harder blade will have a greater chance of developing internal fractures due to being bent. If you really must save money by straightening a bent blade, start out by purchasing the cheapest, softest, blades you can find. It might also be a good idea to pre-nomalize the blade by heating it to 700 degrees before you ever use it. You'll have to sharpen them more often but the risk of having a blade come apart will be much lower. Keep in mind, any blade that comes apart can produce a fragment of shrapnel flying at better that 200 fps and it can kill. So be as safe as you can instead of sorry.
 
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