Recent content by 2152hq

Could those primers causing the problem be LR instead of LP primers. They are both the same dia, but LR are (about) .010 taller. It's been a very long time since I took a SqB apart for anything, so I can't help from that angle.

No they are certainly not 'like the old days'. Fun to recall the good times, but I (we) didn't make or have much money either. I still go and still seem to come away with something. Since I don't look for anything NIB or even near that, project guns are and always have been on the radar. I...

With being that difficult to remove, the old finish may have been one of the so called Epoxy type finishes that were somewhat popular for a time. There were hobby types available. The gun mfg'rs used their own stuff. Much of it was near impossible to remove w/o scrapping & sanding. They were...

The Belgian revolvers generally have a proof mark (ELG in an oval w/crown on top of the oval) on the rear face of the cylinder. That is the BP proof. It is a provisional proof on guns further proofed for smokeless powder (Nitro) which the Crown/N marks on yours would indicate. If the outside of...

The reddish/plum color on Hot Salt Blued pieces I believe comes from more than a few things. Since it evolves on some Ruger SA revolvers and parts (investment cast) quite often,,some hot blued Milsurp (mostly) bolt action rifle recv'rs, hot blued cast malleable iron framed break open single and...

That's the American Gas Furnace system. The 'rotary drum furnace'. It used the proprietary oil Carbona, and thats where the term Carbona Bluing comes from. Truth is the system will produce bluing with use of most any type of oil, even plain Linseed which Winchester used with the process when...

I suspect a refinish also. The sharp edges just aren't there in a lot of places. The Made in USA.. marking looks polished thin. Though they can be lightly imprinted at times, that usually shows as a somewhat uneven marking on one side of the entire mark or starting from a corner. Not individual...

I think what is seen as a main spring screw adj hole in the front may just be where the wood was cut too thin at one time during a refit/refinishing job. The area punched through and then was cleaned up a little to make it more presentable looking. It still doesn't have that 'drilled' or cut...

Very hot water and you'll be OK, but still wear protective clothing and eye protection. The Nitre still clinging to the parts will spatter when hit even by the extreme hot water. The water can only be as hot as 200F+. The part with the Nitre still on it will likely be around 550F yet right out...

I'd guess it was re-blued. Some smallpitting under the blue on the bbl ring of the frame on the left side. A tiny bit of the same interspaced among the bbl lettering, Probably trying to stay away from the lettering as best they could when polishing. The sideplate fit shows polishing off of the...

Should have Hard Rubber grips. The style has the name COLT in an oval at the top edge of each panel. A large 'C' encircles the grip screw escutcheon with the inner area matted. The checkering pattern border has a stylized 2 leaf 'fleur de lis' at the top and bottom border edges. Originals are...

Soft fitting and Hard fitting when speaking of production of most European firearms of good quality meant that the (Soft fitting) was done to assemble parts with the metal being in the un-heat-treated state. Hard fitting was then done again and if needed once the parts had been HT'd. During the...

The 2-letters marked along with the Proof Mark are a Year Date Code. W.German proof houses started using that system in early 1950s. It's still a confusing system to me as I see multiple stampings of different 'date codes' on the same firearm and on different parts. As shown on this revolver...

The bbl portion looks to me to be perhaps a cut-off from an orig rifle bbl that had the bullet starter on it all along. Maybe the rear half of the bbl was damaged or the rifling in the first portion was pitted so the forward section was salvaged along with the Bullet Starter. What makes me...

I've used many Clymer chamber reamers w/o any issues for a long time. Especially 30-30, 303Brit, 38spcl, 45Colt and acp and 9mmLuger. But there does seem to be a lot of bad feed-back about them on the net. If the orig bluing is Hot Salt Blue or Carbona Blue/Charcoal Blue,,the insides of the...