Recent content by 3T'sX3

David, thanks for the reply. Yes, this is a recent mail order purchace. I was not able to physically inspect the gun prior to purchace and their is no history available. The serial number on the frame has an S prefix dating to 1969. The 6 digit serial number on the back of the extractor star...

I have an N-Frame revolver made in 1969. It is in Like New condition with very few signs of use. Close examination has revealed that the serial number on the back of the extractor star does not match the serial number on the frame. Another clue is that the finish on the cylinder does not match...

Shell inlay artists use Diamond Needle Files to smooth out the rough edges that remain after cutting with a jeweler's saw. They work great for removing a .001 here and there. They are not expensive. Diamond Coated Needle Files: Widget Supply

I have done a great deal of shell inlay work. Luthiers and inlay artists use a dremel tool mounted in a plunge type router base to rout cavities to within .001 of depth. I use the Stewart McDonald pictured here; YouTube - Precision Router Base

Have a Model 27-2 with significant extractor rod run-out. I have replaced the extractor rod and center pin with new parts. Both of these parts are straight. I have determined that the shaft of the extractor star has a slight bow. This can be seen by rolling the shaft on a flat surface. Is their...

Thank you for the responses. You have given me some additional things to look for.

Have seen several recent threads dealing with bent extractor "rods" but none that address bent extractors. I'm having run-out and binding problems with two of my revolvers. A Mod 27 and a Mod 10. I have replaced extractor rods and center pins. The yoke alignment is perfect. The run-out seems to...

Thanks for the response. If this is a reblue it is sure a good one. It is hard to tell.

Would the letters RE within a circle, or the letter X within a circle indicate a factory reblue has been done? The letters are stamped into the frame under the stocks on an N frame revolver made about 1972.

Endshake repair completed successfully. Thanks to everyone for the advice. It took a lot more striking force to peen the button than I anticipated. Fortunately, I resisted the urge to get a bigger hammer. Time will tell if the repair is durable. It concerns me a bit that the compressive load of...

Acquired a used 10-5 several months ago. Made around 1969. It does not seem to have been fired extensively. It is in good condition with the exception of the hammers movement. The hammer deflects to the left just as soon as pressure is applied to the trigger in double action mode. It travels...

Wow! Very Clever idea. I assume this is a shop fabricated tool. Have never seen one of these in any catalog. I'm still looking for some lead round stock. I think my local gun shop has lead bars for bullet casting that may work.

Looking for a Tap to clean up a sideplate screw hole on an N-Frame. It is the front, cylinder retention screw. It measures .125 dia so it must be a #5. Can someone tell me the thread size used on N-Frame sideplates?

Thanks for the advice everyone. Now to find some lead or babbit bar. One more question. I have looked at the button very closly under magnification. It looks as if their is a slight cam or inclined plane on the inside of the button in the notch where the screw rides. Can't tell for sure if it...

Thank You for the replies. Is their a way to support the front of the yoke without scratching the finish while you are peening? This old 27 has a beautiful blue job. I am not in favor of using yoke washers because they fix the yoke in a position too far forward. Would like to move the yoke...