Recent content by agentadam

I finally bit the bullet and fit the 2" barrel because I much prefer it in this configuration. I filed a small amount off of the barrel shoulder with a triangle and small finishing file, checking fit as I went, until the barrel came 1/8th of a turn from lining up. I then shortened the ejector...

Slightly off topic but I picked up a complete, like new, top end for a WWII issue Remington Rand 1911 with the British lend and lease stamps on the slide and barrel.

As pictured is only hand tight. I know i can't torque it the rest of the way as is. I will go for a .004-.006 gap but I just hope I don't have to shave too much off and have to have the forcing cone re-cut. For that added cost it would put me over budget rather than just buying a nice condition...

On ebay for 60 but they usualy go for $80-100+. They weren't sure what model it was for but I knew it was a k-frame because of the flat cut for the crane clearance. It looks re blued or possibly new.

I got the barrel off without too much trouble. The new 2" barrel screws on to within 1/8 turn from top dead center. Too far off to torque it down without breaking something. I am guessing I will need to trim the contact surface on the barrel until I get to about 1/16th of a turn from top dead...

The aluminum cylinders where used on early model 12's airweights bought by the US AirForce. They supposedly didn't stand up to extended use and where changed to steel cylinders shortly after. It came with the shorter ejector rod assembly that I needed at least so I may give it a try with low...

She is finally finished. I had to order parts twice. It needed a trigger return (slide) spring, and had a 3-screw instead of a 4/5-screw cylinder stop. I also had to shorten the cylinder stop screw. It's not as smooth or as tight as my other model 10 but it is in decent shape. Model 10 $200...

The reason why is I got this old model 10 as a project for only $200. It needed a trigger slide spring, and has an incorrect cylinder stop in it. I already have a pristine 4" model 10- and have a thing for snub noses. I found a nice 2" barrel for $60 and the old pinned barrels aren't too hard...

I have an old model 10 no dash with 3 side plate screws and the cylinder stop screw on the front. I would like to convert it from a 4" to a 2" barrel and was wondering if the short ejector rod is all I would need or if I would also need the other parts of the ejector also.

Ok, well these were made in the 50/60's and maybe closer to an I frame and is a 4 screw side plate. They also came in a .32 but besides the leaf-spring instead of a coil spring and hammer mounted firing pin its nearly identical to my M34 and even uses the same side plate screws ,grips,and the...

I have a .22lr llama ruby extra revolver made in Spain that is almost an exact copy of a S&W I/J-frame 22. It is brand new but the end-shake is pretty bad with a cylinder gap of .001 with the hammer down on an empty shell but .017 when the cylinder is push back by hand. I got a few light primer...

Jack First gun parts has them for older model 34/36 ect

The if the sideplate screw above the trigger is longe enough i can just remove the threads from the end of it and make it into a yoke screw. The brownells part number for the J-frame model 60-9 screw im talking about also comes up as fitting a K-frame side plate also. 940-000-254WS Side Plate...

I cannot find an early J-frame yoke screw without the spring loaded tip. I have tried Numerich,Midway,Brownells, ect.

I looked at the gun again and was a little turned off because it was missing a side plate screw allowing the yoke to come out when you open the cylinder and the hammer wouldn't stay back for single action. A few days later I ended up trading in a old rusty little Astra cub in .22short with a...