Recent content by ChuteFar

669 caterpillar to 6906 butterfly, for free I bought a 669 new in the mid-80s. It cycled very reliably with whatever ammo was on sale but was insanely inaccurate, like 4 foot groups at 25 yards. I put it away for several years, then sent it to Smith; it was way out of warranty. But four...

Inexpensive dummy/snap caps I bought 6 dummy rounds on eBay. They're cartridges without powder or primer, and the pockets filled with silicone caulk or something similar. That's all that's in these A-zooms. It was an A-zoom that got stuck. So far the filling in the dummies is holding up...

Thanks Scooter123 and Don, I think it was the snap cap. When I got it out, it two fresh, shiny flat spots on the rim 180 degrees apart. That seems consistent with your theory.

Slide unstuck, but mystery unsolved Leave it to a 19-year-old boy. He walked in, asked what was up, I described the problem and by the time I said, Hey, be careful with that, he'd smacked the nose of the slide real hard with heal of his hand and cleared the problem. Now that I can see the...

BIG Clue: The point at which the broke gun's slide hits the obstacle (1mm back from battery) is exactly the same point at which the good gun's slide starts encountering resistance (other than that caused by the recoil spring itself). So, what part in the slide hits what part on the frame at...

If I misalign the recoil spring assembly on the good gun, I can see that its front end is not parallel to the face of the slide. So I don't think the broke gun's recoil spring assembly is installed crooked.

Mag out, empty mag in, loaded mag in. No effect. I'm going to try the 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then a lot of working it. Thanks to all.

Thanks CB3, I'll try both those things. Sorry to make you repeat info contained elsewhere, but I still don't have the hang of doing effective searches on forums like this one.

Thanks, I'll examine the gun again with that in mind. As Sherlock Holmes told Watson: eliminate the impossible an what's left is the answer, no matter how improbable.

It's an A-Zoom, they've been ejecting fine. The Dowel Push Test (you've invented a new technique, "DPT") pushes snapcap, barrel, and slide back about 1mm, then they spring forward that same 1mm when I stop pushing. The good gun does exactly the same thing.

Not seeing the gap, but: with both guns not cocked, mags out, and snapcaps chambered, pushing down on the barrel hood gets me no play at all in the stuck gun, but it puts the good gun in exactly the same condition as the stuck gun: slide back about 1mm, which means muzzle and guide rod protrude...

I'm not sure how that could be but then, my only view is through the mag well. I have a second Shield, also new and unfired. I'm comparing the view through the well, and all the parts I can see are in the same places on both guns. I can see the rims of the snapcaps and both guns look the...

Thanks, Smoke52, turns out that doesn't work in Shieldland.

Thanks PaJerry, but the slide won't go back nearly far enough to allow access to remove that cover (my parts blowup calls it the endcap). You have to get a small punch/screwdriver/whatever in just ahead of the striker and push forward.

Re: Unhappy Shield with PaJerry's problem (slide stuck) I forgot to mention that the slide stop lever is very hard to release from the hold-back position. I have to use both thumbs and all my strength (please no cracks about just how much strength that is). I've only ever bought one S&W new...