Recent content by kmca1

Just reexamined the problem and it seems the sear isn't too long. The forward edge of the sear has a "square" corner where the old sear is radiused. This sharp edge bumps into the "ramp" on the hammer, not allowing it to return to the proper position.

The sear is so long, it won't clear the sear surface of the hammer. I have the tools and I have access to an armorer. I was just wondering if the Apex hammer was supposed to be a real drop-in part, or it's like most other drop-in parts and needs to be fitted. Guess I'll wait for the weekend...

A quick question before I get into any trouble. Just received an Apex Tactical Specialties Gen 4 hammer for my 627. It doesn't quite fit. It says on the website, "gunsmith fitting may be required". The sear interferes with the hammer by about .010. Is this typical and should I file/stone the...

Thanks for the replies. I don't mind the expense (well, not really) of adjusting a brand new gun, but I hate the wait. Local gunsmiths are telling me it would be a couple of weeks to a couple of months to get the work done. From Harrishmasher's post, it seems a 25% return is good for quality...

Just looked at my new Performance Center 627. In reading some threads about the Performance Center, my expectations were rather low. I wasn't disappointed. The crown looks okay, but the forcing cone had burrs that would cut and the barrel is not in line with the frame. I can fix the...

Exactly. It must be fixable, they got it in there in the first place :)

It's the part of the yoke that goes into the frame, upon which the yoke pivots (the yoke pin fits into its groove). Sorry, I don't know the proper terminology. I did look at some schematics and I guess it isn't a part by itself.

Just got back from the smith. It seems the yoke/crane pin (don't know if that's a proper name) is loose. Is it supposed to be a press fit? What now?

It's tight, but I'll have the gunsmith check again. I have an appointment this afternoon.

I was going along fine, 3 or 4 reloads, then on the next reload, the cylinder wouldn't close, like it hit a hard stop. Took the cartridges out and it still wouldn't close and I didn't want to force anything. It looked as if the yoke was further forward than normal. It was suggested the screw...

Thanks for all the help. I was in a local gun store, got to talking about the screw and a retired S&W smith said he was pretty sure he had one. He also offered to go over my revolver to make sure that was the problem :)

Thanks for the find. Too bad the vendor only accepts Paypal, and for personal reasons, I refuse to use Paypal. I'll try to contact the vendor to see if he'll accept a money order or something.

The title says it all. I checked Brownell, Numrich and Midway, they're all either back ordered or discontinued.

I reloaded 12 with new primers (from the same box/lot), the others I just shortened the existing cartridge. Thanks again.

Just a quick update. The shortened cartridges all fired. I shortened some of the batch that didn't work, that's the only thing I did and they fired. I don't know what difference that could make, but I'm not going to argue with success. Thanks for all the help :)