Recent content by Nine Smiths

I went with the RL550B because I wanted manual indexing. I like the production rate capability....but choose to load a little slower and take my time. I visually check each powder charge and monitor all the stages closely. I still get 300 rounds an hour, and caliber change overs are pretty...

I concur with kaibabmd...pull down the ammo and start over. Pistol primers are made of somewhat thinner cup material, and rifle pressures will likely blow some, most or all the primers. Not a chance I would take. In reloading, there is no such thing as too much caution.

I'd just put 'em away until I could toss 'em back into the casting pot. The lube will flux it and the checks will skim right off. Consider then pre-lubed miniature ingots.

I voted to pull the bullets and reload to your specs...with the caveat to use a starting load only due to the unknown primer

My cast boolits get a 100% visual inspection, and random samples are weighed. If your casting technique is reasonably good, the weight variation won't be significant. After lube-sizing, more samples are weighed to determine suitable load data.

I second Snapping Twig's comment. Although it does seem ridiculous to me that one might ignore such a wealth of information simply because the website in question chooses to use the term cast "boolits". Come down to earth, take a deep breath, explore the site and learn something. ;)

Please include me as well. Many thanks to you Sir!

I second this advise. I would also suggest adding the Lyman # 49 loading manual. Read the manuals until you understand the process, then decide what equipment you want. BTW...don't let my post count on this forum fool you. I've been reloading for over thirty years.

I'd jump at the chance to get one too! My first experience with S&W's was as a SP augmentee at my first radar site (North Truro AFS, MA). My M-15 was parkerized...and very accurate. Maybe this will come to be...

I've been wondering about this same issue. I've got a 3" Model 30 and a 4" model 31. The info from this thread fits perfectly. Thanks guys. :)

Mine came from the factory with a flash suppressor. S&W makes them configured differently so they can be legal in the more repressive states.

The factory trigger on my rifle was pretty rough...but I'm used to the RRA match triggers in my centerfire AR's. So I swapped out the trigger and hammer with stock (DPMS I think)parts I had laying around. Used the factory hammer spring and the result was a big improvement. Not a match...