Recent content by postoak

Okay, I took it to the gunsmiths today and after quite a bit of head scratching we figured out what was wrong. The replacement center pin I bought from Numrich to replace the incorrect one that the bluer sent back turned out to have its own problem. The center pin spring didn't work -- it was...

Okay, here's measurements. Yoke shaft length on 10-5 1.485" Yoke shaft length on 10-7 1.492" Cylinder length on 10-5 1.562" Cylinder length on 10-7 1.545" Yoke cylinder depth to step down at rear on 10-5 1.485" Yoke cylinder depth to step down at rear on 10-7 1.422" Also, it probably...

Huh, well that's confusing. I was expecting something like 1.45"/1.45". I measured the length of the cylinder and compared it to the length of that on a 10-5 and they're about the same. I guess I'll disassemble my 10-5 extractor and yoke assembly and compare those measurements to the 10-7.

I believe my yoke looks just like the one in your photo. What length does that one measure from the end to the abutment and what is the depth from the front of the cylinder to the ridge inside the yoke cavity?

Armorer951 - I just saw your last post. If the yoke cavity is what I think it is then it is smaller diameter at the rear end. It has to be because it is the diameter of the extractor shaft whereas most of the cavity is the diameter of the OD of the yoke. Or am I not understanding you? I took...

I wanted to confirm that the yoke shaft that is hollow is bottoming out on the back side of the central shaft near the rear of the cylinder. If a gunsmith decreased the length of the yoke shaft then it would go all the way in and that may be the easiest way to resolve this. Of course, it is...

Thanks, the issue is with the crane not going all the way into the center shaft of the cylinder; it goes all the way into the frame. I think there must be a raised area in the central shaft of the cylinder (that is, the shaft has a smaller ID at the back end) I think the crane is bottoming out...

I bought a Model 10 off of Gunbroker and it worked fine but it needed refinishing so I sent it off to be reblued (they wanted it unassembled). They did a good job on the reblue and I didn't get around to reassembling it for a while. Now that I have, I noticed the the bolt plunger and spring...

I thought I would add something here. I removed a K-frame locking bolt for bluing, and couldn't get the bolt to go back in. I could push it in with great pressure but the front part would stop at the front hole. After reading this thread, I measured the diameter of the bolt at front and rear...

I've got two center pins in front of me for 4 inch revolvers. One has the stop collar 0.800" from the cylinder end and the other is only 0.700". The two revolvers I have take only the 0.800". What's the 0.700" fit?

Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention that it is a square butt. Thank you, Chris, that's what I figured.

I just bought a 10-5 off gunbroker and it came with plain, smooth, convex grips. Doing some reading it seems like the convex grips didn't come on anything later than the WWII Victory models. Do I have the correct, original style grips on this revolver?