What's your favorite gun cleaning lubricant?

Break Free or - hate it all you will - WD40 which I like for being only moderately toxic, cheap, and universally to be had.

I actually have used olive oil. It works.
 
A few of you guys like Corrosion-X, I went to their website, looks like an interesting product. I also figured out why I had never heard of Corrosion -X, they have no distributor in Minnesota! I will have to get some from their website directly!
 
I use Eds Red for almost all of my cleaning. Though I'll use Kroil occasionally when I think it's called for. For light lubrication I use Dextron ATF. Sounds odd but at the recommendation of an old E8 I used it to lube the M60 the Government used to let be borrow. It actually works well and doesn't gum up in cold weather.
 
MTKTM said:
Kroil. The oil that creeps. It works as a fair-to-middling solvent too. I used and liked Break-Free for years, but prefer Kroil.
Click to expand...
No doubt about Kroil...I've never used anything short of brake disc cleaner (on old Mosin-Nagants) that cleans a bore better. I always clean the bores with brush and solvent, run a wet patch of Kroil through the bore, wait an hour, and start pushing crud out of the bore. Hoppe's Nitro and Kroil, great way to clean any gun. Even though Kroil is an oil (penetrating), I usually finish off the bore with a heavier gun oil.
 
GatorFarmer said:
Break Free or - hate it all you will - WD40 which I like for being only moderately toxic, cheap, and universally to be had.

I actually have used olive oil. It works.
Click to expand...

WD40 is a excellent rust preventative.

Fun facts to know and tell: it stands for Water Displacement formula development try # 40.

It was designed to stop rust and corrosion on our ICBM Nukes back in the days when we and the Soviets were seeing who could make more and bigger.

It probably works as well as any of the higher priced spreads.

I make homemade ED's Red and add in addition some synthetic 30w motor oil. Just do not use on any plastic as the acetone on it will melt your plastic guns.
 
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Wd-40!!!

Gator,
I am surprised that someone of your intelligence and experience would not mention WD-40's
tendency to form a hard build-up on moving parts. Before going overseas and leaving my
my guns at a relative's house for almost four years I field stripped them and sprayed the innards with WD-40. When I finally retrieved my guns I found that several of them now had
very heavy trigger pulls, particularly my Browning FN Mauser-type bolt action 30-06. I finally ended up boiling the action. It never did completely regain it's original trigger pull. Other guns with perhaps looser actions, or greater tolerances, were not so adversely effected. Still, WD-40 is something for bike chains as far as I am concerned.

RKO

GatorFarmer said:
Break Free or - hate it all you will - WD40 which I like for being only moderately toxic, cheap, and universally to be had.

I actually have used olive oil. It works.
Click to expand...
 
Somewhere I had read that WD-40's main lubricant is mineral oil.

RKO said:
Gator,
I am surprised that someone of your intelligence and experience would not mention WD-40's
tendency to form a hard build-up on moving parts. Before going overseas and leaving my
my guns at a relative's house for almost four years I field stripped them and sprayed the innards with WD-40. When I finally retrieved my guns I found that several of them now had
very heavy trigger pulls, particularly my Browning FN Mauser-type bolt action 30-06. I finally ended up boiling the action. It never did completely regain it's original trigger pull. Other guns with perhaps looser actions, or greater tolerances, were not so adversely effected. Still, WD-40 is something for bike chains as far as I am concerned.

RKO
Click to expand...
 
We used mollylube mixed with engine oil to lube the teleflex cables for the variable exhaust nozzels on J 71 jet engines on B66 Bombers back in the 50's-60's. Would withstand extreame temperature changes.

I use Hoppe's mostly on handgun barrels, but lube seperately with light lube such as Break free which does not gum up. Regareless of the lube use sparingly.
 
RKO said:
Gator,
I am surprised that someone of your intelligence and experience would not mention WD-40's
tendency to form a hard build-up on moving parts. Before going overseas and leaving my
my guns at a relative's house for almost four years I field stripped them and sprayed the innards with WD-40. When I finally retrieved my guns I found that several of them now had
very heavy trigger pulls, particularly my Browning FN Mauser-type bolt action 30-06. I finally ended up boiling the action. It never did completely regain it's original trigger pull. Other guns with perhaps looser actions, or greater tolerances, were not so adversely effected. Still, WD-40 is something for bike chains as far as I am concerned.

RKO
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem with WD-40 causing anything to become gummed up or have it form any sort of build up or gunky residue (such as 3 in 1 oil is notorious for). I've heard anecdotal reports of such, but haven't seen it happen, even on things that I've let sit around for quite some time, though I have not used it for long term storage. I don't know if WD sometimes leaches out other products or gunk if left to sit for a long time. It seems that for every thread where several folks report to have used WD40 for years without incident, another reliable individual will report a problem that they attribute to it.

The manufacturer provides the following Find Out the Latest WD-40 Product News and Information

I generally like to use Breakfree CLP as a first choice, but will use WD40 to hose out anything that's gotten wet, for a quick flush, etc.
 
Our very large Sheriff Dept cleans there guns with a steam and ultrasound get up. Of course they are Glocks and are top rack dishwasher safe also.:D

I had a Master Gunsmith tell me he uses Simple Green and blasts them out with water then compressed air, then lightly oil.

(really on the steam part)

I'm gonna go clean my 629 now. I'm cheap I use Kerosene the first round, then Hoppes #9 then light CLP coating
 
CLEANING

All firearms: Hoppe's No. 9 - once and great while in the bore of a rifle I'll use some Sweet's 7.62 (careful with that stuff)

LUBRICATION

Revolvers: Prolix Extra-T Dry Lube

Pistols: Small internals - Prolix Extra-T Dry Lube; rails - was using Rigg +P Stainless Steel Lube (no longer made) but moving to Enos Slide-Glide

Rifles: M1 Rifles, M1 Carbine and M1A - U.S.G.I. Rifle Grease (plastilube); Mosin rifles - was using Rigg +P Stainless Steel Lube (no longer made) but moving to U.S.G.I. Rifle Grease; Swiss K31 rfiles - was using Rigg +P Stainless Steel Lube (no longer made) but moving to currently issued Swiss Army Automatenfett (automatic weapons grease) (just acquired a 1 lb tub); AR-15 rifles - BreakFree LP (not CLP).

Note my last jar of the Rigg . . . :(

IMG_0267a.jpg
 
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GatorFarmer said:
I've never had a problem with WD-40 causing anything to become gummed up or have it form any sort of build up or gunky residue (such as 3 in 1 oil is notorious for). I've heard anecdotal reports of such, but haven't seen it happen, even on things that I've let sit around for quite some time, though I have not used it for long term storage. I don't know if WD sometimes leaches out other products or gunk if left to sit for a long time. It seems that for every thread where several folks report to have used WD40 for years without incident, another reliable individual will report a problem that they attribute to it.
Click to expand...

After reading the following many years ago i have never used WD40 for anything
Ed Harris said:
## What are the drawbacks of using WD-40 in cleaning and lubricating guns?##



Degrades in the presense of ozone, which can cause surface rusting such as
when you have an arc welder in the shop. When I was at Ruger we once had
to reblue a week's worth of production after somebody rinsed guns after
bluing, and they were stored on open racks near an arc welder. Guns may
also rust after a severe thunderstorm. The stuff oxidizes and gums after
a few years and gives no protection. When I was at NRTA and we had to
pack up museum guns and put in storage for 2 years, EVERY gun treated with
WD40 had rust on it, whereas none of the ones treated with ordinary ATF
rusted.

The biggest problem is that it is too high in chlorides, because it
contains chlorinated paraffins. This contributes to stress corrosion
cracking in stainless steel alloys. According to FAA WD40 may not be used
in aircraft applications, nor is it permitted in military or nuclear
applications. When I was at Ruger we wouldn't allow a can of the stuff
inside the plant gate.
Click to expand...
 
I like the traditional Hoppe's No. 9, but it is a bit much when traveling (not every hotel is keen on the aroma of No. 9). When traveling I really like BC-10 Gunzilla. It clean well, no odor for the hotel neighbors to complain about and a little bit goes a long way.
 
I'm old fashioned. I always keep Hoppes and CLP on hand. For that really nasty WWII corrosive priming, I still have a few bottles of 1943 vintage GI bore cleaner. That stuff is nasty but does and excellent job...even if it is 65 years old! Actually, I don't do so bad my self...and I'm older than that!:p
 
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