915 Duracoat Project

DaveNC

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
63
Reaction score
176
Location
Clemmons, NC
I'm pretty new to the forum but have been a Smith guy since my Dad gave me a 686 for graduation in '81. I have been interested in trying duracoat on something and saw this 915 for a reasonable price and thought I would jump in. Me and a friend tore it down and cleaned all the fuzz out and then shot it with WWII OD green and coyote tan. I think that it came out pretty good. Love to hear some feedback.
 

Attachments

  • 915 Before.jpg
    915 Before.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 232
  • 915 After.jpg
    915 After.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 283
Register to hide this ad
Looks great! Our local gun store had a 40cal model 410 that had little finish left on it, it was cheap but I wondered how I would refinish it without doubling the cost of the gun. I might swing back over there and see if they still have it.
 
Does replacing the sights scratch the duracoat off?

I got the front and rear sights back on without scratching anything, but I pressed the rear sight on and had to drift the front. I got lucky I think. I did get a scratch putting the mag release back on, the screwdriver slipped, but I used a bamboo skewer tip and a drop of duracoat and it filled right in.
 
Looks great! Our local gun store had a 40cal model 410 that had little finish left on it, it was cheap but I wondered how I would refinish it without doubling the cost of the gun. I might swing back over there and see if they still have it.

You definitely should give it a try. I had a lot fun and learned a ton. I've got a beat up 10-5 4" heavy barrel for the next project.
 
Looks really nice--care to say what sort of equipment you used? I have seen some Duracoat jobs that looked like they were applying aerosol spray paint in dusty rooms--runny, goopy messes. Aside from Duracoat, there's plenty of guns that pros have messed up on rebluing alone--I just passed on a very tight 1969 Colt Cobra that was too obviously reblued. You clearly took the time and used the equipment needed to do Duracoat right.

I think Duracoat sort of makes it seem a bit easier than it is. Having seen some not so great jobs, statements like the below give me pause:

The process of applying DuraCoat is not much more difficult than painting a lawn chair with spray paint. The biggest difference is that DuraCoat is a resin and you must mix it with the supplied hardener before spraying it on your weapon, or with DuraBake you have to bake the weapon up to temperature to cure. DuraCoat Firearm Finishes Quick Guide

and

DuraCoat is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required.

Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed. Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to DuraCoat application. DuraCoat is permanent, and provides a professional finish.
DURACOAT FIREARM FINISHES DIRECT
 
Last edited:
Wow. I'm impressed!. Doesn't even look like the same gun. Very nice work. SOME day I may try this with my M&P9 FS...
 
915

Hope no one takes offense, but I like the before pic better than the after pic.

But I'm sure the project was fun so what the heck!
 
There was definitely a learning curve. I watched many of the videos on youtube and Lauer has posted his own videos. They do make it sound like the finish just jumps on the firearm and snuggles in, not really. I used an air compressor and a cheap air brush from Harbor Freight. I hated the air brush and bought a Badger air brush from amazon much better. The first time I painted a knife and roughed it up then degreased with the Trustrip and painted it and it flaked right off with my finger nail. I called Lauer, which I must say if I had any questions the guy picked the phone up every time I called and talked as long I wanted and answered all my questions. He told me that you Trustrip (degrease) only once and as the first step, then you rough up the surface and blow off anything left over with the compressor. Another mistake I made was laying the paint on too thick. It takes longer for it to bond when you lay it on thick. Once again I called Lauer and he told me to spray a "layer" and let it "flash". What he was saying is apply a light coat that looks wet and wait a few minutes until it looks dry and then apply another layer until you get the coverage you want. This process worked great. This was the first one I did, I did have to sand some areas down and reshoot them, but once I learned the "layer flash" technique it went smooth. IMHO I think it will hold up as well as bluing, if you draw and holster a blued gun over and over you will get wear at certain spots. The thing I like about duracoat is if I do get wear, I can just reshoot it. I am not even close to trying to blue a firearm.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that, from my understanding(been reading bit about various coatings in plans to refinish my 1911) is that it takes up to 2 weeks for full curing of duracote. Even after initial "drying" the finish will be soft and mar much easier than after the curing process is done.
 
Back
Top