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Removing cylinder J frame
- Thread starter Robert B
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If the cylinder starts getting stiff or gummy, I'll pull it off the gun and clean it. No, it won't produce a double turn line.
David Sinko
Member
I have a couple of revolvers that see hard use and lots of rounds and I never remove the cylinder for cleaning. I don't think it's necessary to remove the cylinder. I know some people who spend far more time cleaning their guns than they do actually shooting them and theirs are no more reliable than mine are.
Dave Sinko
Dave Sinko
I couldn't agree more! I shoot Steel Challenge twice a month in two different categories with revolvers. All I have ever done to clean is take the grips off. Spray down with brake cleaner. Then with Rem Oil. Brush down with a brass brush and run a bore snake through the cylinder and barrel. Done!
I've been doing this for three years and the revolvers are working like new.
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slabside2
Member
With all the problems with the cylinders sliding past the cylender stops on the frames of the newer guns you have be carefull cleaning each hole. I remove mine on my 340pd. I never did but now I do. I can't do any harm it takes a little more time cleaning it.
You guys are great!
Thanks for making me feel good about being a little lazy cleaning my 642-1. It never looks bad. But, it is never spotless either.
I love the way it shoots. But, am not much of a cleaning enthusiast, except with some of my semi-automatic pistols.
Life is good!
Yes, you can see the powder marks on the cylinder even in this small picture.
Thanks for making me feel good about being a little lazy cleaning my 642-1. It never looks bad. But, it is never spotless either.
I love the way it shoots. But, am not much of a cleaning enthusiast, except with some of my semi-automatic pistols.
Life is good!
Yes, you can see the powder marks on the cylinder even in this small picture.
First, I can't imagine a reason, other than some awful fouling, that would cause me to remove a cylinder for cleaning.
Second, let me reiterate what a cowboy action shooter once told me, and I love to repeat this:
Third, I admit to being a fastidious, gun cleaning nut back in the day. As I got older I got lazier - and my guns shoot to point of aim, zero, MOA, whatever, whether I cleaned them or not. The only gun I have ever had an issue with that I hadn't cleaned after HARD USE was a Navy Arms/Rossi Model 1892 lever rifle - the spring in the tube magazine got fouled up and rounds got stuck once.
Cleaning guns is not rocket science but I recall a line from an Old Western when a gunman was accused of shooting someone and then cleaning his guns to cover it up - "My guns are always clean". Back that refers to blackpowder - if you didn't clean those you could easily get into trouble.
I'll go so far as to note that cleaning pistols is somewhat more of an obligation, too, because a dirty slide can be an issue. Otherwise, I have no guilt if I shoot some guns and put them up without cleaning them. I never put them up hot, but clean is a whole nuthuh smoke (pun intended) and I don't worry about it like I used to.
One issue - a carried gun, one from a pocket, or a purse, or even left around (some of us do that), will pick up a lot of lint and dirt that you MUST clean more regularly.
YMMV, of course, and I accept anyone's criticism that I'm underserving to own firearms. I have many dozens and none are angry with me but some of my colleagues get that way and I understand.
***GRJ***
Second, let me reiterate what a cowboy action shooter once told me, and I love to repeat this:
Third, I admit to being a fastidious, gun cleaning nut back in the day. As I got older I got lazier - and my guns shoot to point of aim, zero, MOA, whatever, whether I cleaned them or not. The only gun I have ever had an issue with that I hadn't cleaned after HARD USE was a Navy Arms/Rossi Model 1892 lever rifle - the spring in the tube magazine got fouled up and rounds got stuck once.
Cleaning guns is not rocket science but I recall a line from an Old Western when a gunman was accused of shooting someone and then cleaning his guns to cover it up - "My guns are always clean". Back that refers to blackpowder - if you didn't clean those you could easily get into trouble.
I'll go so far as to note that cleaning pistols is somewhat more of an obligation, too, because a dirty slide can be an issue. Otherwise, I have no guilt if I shoot some guns and put them up without cleaning them. I never put them up hot, but clean is a whole nuthuh smoke (pun intended) and I don't worry about it like I used to.
One issue - a carried gun, one from a pocket, or a purse, or even left around (some of us do that), will pick up a lot of lint and dirt that you MUST clean more regularly.
YMMV, of course, and I accept anyone's criticism that I'm underserving to own firearms. I have many dozens and none are angry with me but some of my colleagues get that way and I understand.
***GRJ***
If I get an urge to make a gun spotless,taking the cylinder off makes cleaning the face easier.I think that's happened three or four times in the last ten years :-D
SgtLumpy
Member
If I shoot only jacketed or plated bullets, no open lead, I never have much need to clean a barrel or cylinders. My reloads are really clean (HP-38 or W231 powder). I get a litle black around the cylinder face and barrel gap. It wipes off with a rag.
Only chemical I use is CLP and then only the smallest drop I can get out of that little syringe/pen oiler thing. One tiny drop on each bearing under the side plate once a year. Even then, I find it still lubed from the previous year and wipe it off.
Before each range session, I run a clean, dry patch through the barrel and each cylinder hole. After each range session, I put a couple of micro drops of CLP in the barrel. Then when I get home a half hour later, I run a clean patch through there. I then run that same patch (clean or light tan) through the cylinders.
Only other thing I do to the cylinder area is pinch the extractor rod between thumb and finger while I have very slightly oily hands. I'm not really trying to put oil ON the rod, I'm cleaning it off. I found long ago that adding any kind of oil to that area only increases the collection of gunk/dirt. I try and make sure the area UNDER the extractor star is clean and dry, no oil at all.
It's a clean machine.
I've got a Ruger 10-22 rifle that I cleaned some time in the 70s. Put on a new stock and barrel a year or so ago. Looked in that 40 year old barrel and it looked as clean as new. I appllied a little CLP to the new barrel and don't expect to clean it for another several decades.
Sgt Lumpy
Only chemical I use is CLP and then only the smallest drop I can get out of that little syringe/pen oiler thing. One tiny drop on each bearing under the side plate once a year. Even then, I find it still lubed from the previous year and wipe it off.
Before each range session, I run a clean, dry patch through the barrel and each cylinder hole. After each range session, I put a couple of micro drops of CLP in the barrel. Then when I get home a half hour later, I run a clean patch through there. I then run that same patch (clean or light tan) through the cylinders.
Only other thing I do to the cylinder area is pinch the extractor rod between thumb and finger while I have very slightly oily hands. I'm not really trying to put oil ON the rod, I'm cleaning it off. I found long ago that adding any kind of oil to that area only increases the collection of gunk/dirt. I try and make sure the area UNDER the extractor star is clean and dry, no oil at all.
It's a clean machine.
I've got a Ruger 10-22 rifle that I cleaned some time in the 70s. Put on a new stock and barrel a year or so ago. Looked in that 40 year old barrel and it looked as clean as new. I appllied a little CLP to the new barrel and don't expect to clean it for another several decades.
Sgt Lumpy
snubbiefan
Member
I am with post #5. I understand the "factory method" is the carb/brake cleaner followed by a light coat of spay lubricant like mentioned above. That's my method. Spray it with cleaner in-and-out. Blow that off with an air-nozzle. Let that dry a few minutes then get everything with the spray-lubricant. Yanking-out the yoke and adding a drop-or-so of heavier oil doesn't take that long nor does rodding-out the bore and cylinders. Just remove the rubber or plastic grips.
When I was doin' time with Uncle Sam....we use to take our M14's and 45's to the showers with us. Then take them down and give them a good lube-job. HOT water will do pretty good in the absence of anything else...and if it's hot enough, most of it will vaporize by the time you get the oil on it.
You can clean a gun to death.
When I was doin' time with Uncle Sam....we use to take our M14's and 45's to the showers with us. Then take them down and give them a good lube-job. HOT water will do pretty good in the absence of anything else...and if it's hot enough, most of it will vaporize by the time you get the oil on it.
You can clean a gun to death.
spad124
Member
When ammo makers used to use corrosive primers detail cleaning after each session was a must. There are many old revolvers and milsurp pistols with dark or pitted barrels because the soldier didn't have the opportunity to clean immediately after a fire fight.
Even with modern ammo I used to detail clean after each session. Now I will detail clean and oil if I am not going to use a revolver for a while and it will just be in the safe. Otherwise, for the revolver I carry as a field gun the outside gets wiped down and maybe I'll run a couple of patches through the barrel and cylinder. I basically get the loose powder off. 100 or 200 rounds isn't enough to gum up the action. And I don't use ammo from questionable sources so corrosion isn't a concern like it used to be.
Even with modern ammo I used to detail clean after each session. Now I will detail clean and oil if I am not going to use a revolver for a while and it will just be in the safe. Otherwise, for the revolver I carry as a field gun the outside gets wiped down and maybe I'll run a couple of patches through the barrel and cylinder. I basically get the loose powder off. 100 or 200 rounds isn't enough to gum up the action. And I don't use ammo from questionable sources so corrosion isn't a concern like it used to be.
SgtLumpy
Member
Hey Snub/Mac - I've heard others talk about this method. Seems incredibly time and labor saving. Does it take a lot of rubbing OFF the sprayed on oil on the outside of the gun to keep it from becoming an oily gunk magnet?
Sgt Lumpy
For my revolvers the Rem Oil drains out pretty fast. Haven't noticed any build up.
photoman
Member
I clean my guns every time after shooting. I remove the cylinder to clean revolvers. It's easy to do and makes it easier to clean the gun.
Rpg
Member
I've never removed the cylinder from a j frame or any other S&W revolver. I can't imagine why I would want to do so.
I've put thousands of rounds through mine
I consider cylinder removal to be something a goo gun smith does, not owner maintenance.
If you think you need to remove the cylinder, you have a problem or a defective S&W.
This isn't an owner maintenance job, even if you have instructions about how to do it.
This is trouble - only a gunsmith job.
Just my opinion, of course.
I've put thousands of rounds through mine
I consider cylinder removal to be something a goo gun smith does, not owner maintenance.
If you think you need to remove the cylinder, you have a problem or a defective S&W.
This isn't an owner maintenance job, even if you have instructions about how to do it.
This is trouble - only a gunsmith job.
Just my opinion, of course.
photoman
Member
I always remove the cylinder because it facilitates cleaning, making the whole process easier. I have so many revolvers I never know when I'll shoot any particular one again. Therefore I clean them every time I fire them, a clean firearm is a dependable one.
Rpg
Member
Wow. Kick me in the nads next time while you're at it.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with removing the cylinder to clean the gun. It's not difficult at all, does not harm the gun and makes it much easier to clean the gun.
I don't intend to kick anyone, just describe my experience.
I don't / wouldn't do it and haven't for 50 years with no bad result.
I remember having my rifle team coach in the early "60s make me do push-ups for weeks for cleaning my rifle during the competitive season.
Sargent Shaw was of the vigorous opinion that me efforts did no good and took thousands of rounds to correct.
My experience since then is that he was right!
I don't fix it if it isn't broken. If it doesn't need cleaning to function, I let it function.
Funny, all mine function fine with my cleaning regimine
I agree with RPG's comment in 19, but you knew I would after what I said before.
Additionally:
That's a typical method for me. Blow some Gunscrubber through it, maybe run a patch through the bore and cylinders, spray some Ballistol, I'm done. Let it dry, put it away. IF I do it all, of course.
SO TRUE!!!! Especially if the M-14 was fiberglass stocked. Then you could take that to the shower, too, dry it off, done and done. No linseed oil needed. Thanks for the memories!
***GRJ***
Additionally:
That's a typical method for me. Blow some Gunscrubber through it, maybe run a patch through the bore and cylinders, spray some Ballistol, I'm done. Let it dry, put it away. IF I do it all, of course.
SO TRUE!!!! Especially if the M-14 was fiberglass stocked. Then you could take that to the shower, too, dry it off, done and done. No linseed oil needed. Thanks for the memories!
***GRJ***
