Enfield No2 Mk1 revolver .38/200

A long time ago, I stumbled across a beat up Enfield top break sitting on the bottom shelf in the shop. It was fairly rough looking with approx half the painted black finish missing, broken Vulcanite stocks and a loose latch.
For $95, I figured it would be a good fixer upper. Once home, I discovered it was actually pretty solid mechanically, nice bore and chambers, and lockup was strong.
First time out at the range, it shot really well for a heavy DAO trigger...but lots of light strikes. I soon realized it was missing the stirrup latch spring, allowing the latch to interfere with hammer fall, causing the light hits.
Soon, I had whittled a fresh pair of stocks from a block of walnut, replaced the spring and had a local 'smith Gunkote it in olive drab.
Since then, it has seen maybe 350-400 rounds thru it....aside from the low POI with typical 145gr .38 S&W ammo, it does fine.

As many know, the Rem and Win variety 145gr rnl ammo is even more butter soft than the British 200gr rnl and 180fmj loads issued for these guns.
Last chrono session had the Winchester barely hitting 600fps and often slower than that.


The other day, I tried it for the second time ever at 25yrds. First time out, it was pretty ugly with the gun about a foot low and the 15-17lb DAO trigger wreaking havoc on my marksmanship.
I only had 18 rounds, held high this time and nearly held black. Pretty good for this shooter...I need to hunt down some 200gr loads.

It's actually a fun gun despite all the weird shortcomings that mostly can be summarized with being British. I would like to hunt down a spurred Hammer with the SA notch.

I like it! You can put some reasonably stout loads through the Enfield. Be certain that the bullets are .361" in diameter for best accuracy and rifling engagement. Heavier bullets will tend to shoot toward the revolver's original point of aim.

Cheers!

attn OP

Check the right side of the frame between the trigger guard and grip for a marking showing the year of mfg. If that marking has been ground off, it indicates the gun has been de-milled. This is described more properly in a Wikipedia article.

I bought one of these guns so "de-marked" and returned it to the owner.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Never heard that. How were they demilled?

I got one at a local show a few years ago for $100. Action was frozen and dealer didn't want to mess with fixing it. I took it home and poured some solvent through it to flush out the hardened grease and it worked fine.

I think top breaks are a hoot.

kaaskop49 said:

Check the right side of the frame between the trigger guard and grip for a marking showing the year of mfg. If that marking has been ground off, it indicates the gun has been de-milled. This is described more properly in a Wikipedia article.

I bought one of these guns so "de-marked" and returned it to the owner.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Click to expand...

I don't understand your post. Are you saying you got a refund from the seller because it was demilled?

Goblin said:

I don't understand your post. Are you saying you got a refund from the seller because it was demilled?

Click to expand...

It was a FTF transaction. He took it back and returned my $. It had been sold with the understanding that it was a shooter. Perhaps "demilled" is the wrong term. The proper term can be found in the Wikipedia article.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Got it, thanks.

Try some hollow based wadcutters in your revolver,they work great in my Enfield.Also notice the front sight is mounted with a screw,you can fabricate a new sight and fit it to your loads.

Milton said:

Try some hollow based wadcutters in your revolver,they work great in my Enfield.Also notice the front sight is mounted with a screw,you can fabricate a new sight and fit it to your loads.

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I hope to be Handloading for it in the near future....I was thinking this would be a perfect Wadcutter gun, too. First I want to find some 200gr loads and try those.

Is that a No2 MkI*,,,or a No2MkI**

Both are the D/A only versions (the No2MkI is the SA/DA w/a hammer spur early version)

The MkI* was the first DA only variation. These can be converted back to a MkI w/a MkI hammer w/DA strut, ect.

The MkI** was the late DA only variation and came about around late '43. It was a simplified version and doesn't make for a simple reconversion back to the early MkI SA/DA style. In fact they were a bit dangerous from the stand point of firing when dropped on the spurless hammer.

IIRC, the Enfield front site came is 3 different widths,,one centered, and one each off-set to the right and left a few .000 (6?) for armourers POA windage corrections. They may have had a couple differnt heights also.
If not the latter, it's not too hard to make up a lower front site blade to replace the current one to have the revolver shoot higher with the ammo you're using.

Fun revolvers. You can work over the action parts a little to improve the DA pull. They were never meant to be bullseye guns,,just be able to hit a man at 20yrds or so.
One of my favorites was a No2MkI made in 1935 or '36 I think. Beautifully made revolver,,wish I still had it.
Used to load 158gr LSWC (.357d) in 38S&W cases w/Reddot powder by just sizing the brass but now expanding it. A perfect fit for the .357sized slugs and they were plenty accurate at 25m.

2152hq said:

Is that a No2 MkI*,,,or a No2MkI**

Both are the D/A only versions (the No2MkI is the SA/DA w/a hammer spur early version)

The MkI* was the first DA only variation. These can be converted back to a MkI w/a MkI hammer w/DA strut, ect.

The MkI** was the late DA only variation and came about around late '43. It was a simplified version and doesn't make for a simple reconversion back to the early MkI SA/DA style. In fact they were a bit dangerous from the stand point of firing when dropped on the spurless hammer.

IIRC, the Enfield front site came is 3 different widths,,one centered, and one each off-set to the right and left a few .000 (6?) for armourers POA windage corrections. They may have had a couple differnt heights also.
If not the latter, it's not too hard to make up a lower front site blade to replace the current one to have the revolver shoot higher with the ammo you're using.

Fun revolvers. You can work over the action parts a little to improve the DA pull. They were never meant to be bullseye guns,,just be able to hit a man at 20yrds or so.
One of my favorites was a No2MkI made in 1935 or '36 I think. Beautifully made revolver,,wish I still had it.
Used to load 158gr LSWC (.357d) in 38S&W cases w/Reddot powder by just sizing the brass but now expanding it. A perfect fit for the .357sized slugs and they were plenty accurate at 25m.

Click to expand...

This is the single * version.
I've had it apart a few times to look into cleaning up the trigger...it's really just stiffly sprung, best I can tell. It stacks hellaciously before the break.