Any Objection to Kroil

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ROAD GLIDE

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Been using on my 686 and 66, seems to work well. Any reason not to use it or anything better for copper, powder and lead ?
 
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i wouldn't use it for a lube or near ammo. I've been told that because it's so thin of an oil it can get into primers very easyly and ruin the ammo. It's great to clean the carbon on my AR, but i make sure I get get of it and lube with CLP.
 
Not a real problem on most handguns but I've been told to keep it away from scoped guns. I've been told it WILL creep into the scope and ruin it. We use it at work like crazy (i'm a mechanic in the coal mines) and man does it work! A few guys from work say that it does clean well though.
 
It's a penetrating oil, as a bore cleaner it's as good as WD40, if Kroil is working for you no reason not to use it. For stubborn deposits you might want to pick up some J-B bore cleaning paste to go with the Kroil.
Remember it is a penetrating oil and it does penetrate very well, it might be the best. I've used it on some RUSTY nuts and bolts, I thought were never coming apart. A little soak time and they unscrewed.
I have been using Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner lately, mainly for the low odor -scent free aspect. It does clean and it smells good.
My wife doesn't even say a word after a cleaning session in the bedroom and I put it on the nightstand. I have used others that even I couldn't stand the stink !

Gary
 
I used to use Kroil to clean but I switched to M Pro 7 which I found worked better and is much less toxic.

I have also used M Pro 7 copper cleaner. You have to let it soak, wipe it out and reapply. Use a nylon brush. Be patient but it works well. Make sure you remove it all when finished.
 
Kroil works well on leading given enough time, but a standard bore solvent works faster on carbon and especially copper deposits.

Kroil "can" work on copper, but it takes much longer soaking then a copper remover bore solvent.
 
Kroil 25% + Shooter's Choice MC#7 75% is an old benchrest shooters formula. Works very well on carbon and is not bad on copper.

I've switched to Wipe-Out Patch Out and Accelerator. Works even better on copper and carbon. You apply it, leave it on overnight, and get the darkest blue patches you have ever seen in the morning with no scrubbing. It will eat brass or bronze brushes, as will most any good copper remover.

I use a Lewis Lead Remover for heavy lead fouling or a brush for lighter lead fouling. I've never found a chemical that does much for removing lead, so I still use the old mechanical methods.
 
Aerosol carburetor cleaner works well for powder fouling.
I have an '88-'90 5906 that was a police trade-in.
I swear, the cop who was issued this gun should've been kicked in the baby-maker. I think he/she NEVER cleaned it.
It was so nasty (but not badly worn) that I think he/she would shoot it for qualification, oil it and put it back in the holster.
That practice could have cost him/her his/her life, were it not for the fact that 3rd gens seem to be reliable to a fault.
Funny thing, lockup is still tight. Gun is not too loose. It seems to have had a lot of rounds put through it, but doesn't show signs of abuse.
Who needs a Glock? Not me. These 3rd gens seem to have "hell and back" reliability like a Sig or a military 1911.


No lie, some areas had carbon fouling that came off in sheets when scraped with a flattened (split) brass case.
Sheets, I tell ya.
I soaked and scrubbed, ad nauseum, with very little result.
Finally, I hosed it down with spray carburetor cleaner.
That did the trick.
Now, it's clean and lubed.
Can't wait to try it out.

None of my commercial bore solvents would do anything more than cause the patches to come out black.
Ed's Red didn't do the trick. Military rifle bore solvent didn't, either.
Carb cleaner knocked it out of the park.
 
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I use Kroil for frozen bolts and screws but would never consider using it as a normal firearms maintenance product for several reasons. First off I can not stand the smell - it's quite strong and lingers for days. It also gets all over the place - including unwanted places which would include holsters, clothing, furniture, etc. I'd just use Kroil if and when you have stubborn screws and/or bolts and use something else for guns - Just my personal opinion.................
 
better for copper, powder and lead ?
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Click to expand...

I've never used Kroil, so I can't comment on how well it does or does not work. For exterior lead, powder, and general clean up on stainless Steel firearms, I sue a lead-a-way cloth with a gentle touch. For bore cleaning I use Hoppies #9 or Elite and LOTS of patches.
 
Jaymo said:
Aerosol carburetor cleaner works well for powder fouling.
I have an '88-'90 5906 that was a police trade-in.
I swear, the cop who was issued this gun should've been kicked in the baby-maker. I think he/she NEVER cleaned it.
It was so nasty (but not badly worn) that I think he/she would shoot it for qualification, oil it and put it back in the holster.
That practice could have cost him/her his/her life, were it not for the fact that 3rd gens seem to be reliable to a fault.
Funny thing, lockup is still tight. Gun is not too loose. It seems to have had a lot of rounds put through it, but doesn't show signs of abuse.
Who needs a Glock? Not me. These 3rd gens seem to have "hell and back" reliability like a Sig or a military 1911.


No lie, some areas had carbon fouling that came off in sheets when scraped with a flattened (split) brass case.
Sheets, I tell ya.
I soaked and scrubbed, ad nauseum, with very little result.
Finally, I hosed it down with spray carburetor cleaner.
That did the trick.
Now, it's clean and lubed.
Can't wait to try it out.

None of my commercial bore solvents would do anything more than cause the patches to come out black.
Ed's Red didn't do the trick. Military rifle bore solvent didn't, either.
Carb cleaner knocked it out of the park.
Click to expand...

As a warning, carburetor cleaner will devolve some types of wood finishes and ruin (melt) some types of plastic grips.
 
I use Kroil for cleaning and am pleased with the product. (I do not use the product with silicone.) IMHO it is among the best products for that purpose, and when combined with a bit of time, for me it does an outstanding job. I do not use it for lubrication or storage. That is not what it is made for. As for odor, I do not find it at all offensive. I recommend it without reserve.
Now, if you want to talk 'stink', talk Ballistol. That stuff will do a great job cleaning and preserving, but phewwww! I get complaints from my wife when the lid comes off of the can. It takes stuff off that you didn't think was even there.
Asking about cleaning products is almost as controversial as asking which caliber is better. We all have our favorites, and everyone else has their own. Try several and you will find some that please you more than others. (Often overlooked, but effective and inexpensive, is ATF. It is relatively thin and full of detergents. Works great for cleaning.)
 
In my experience Kroil is a very good penetrating oil; but, it's not ideal for either gun cleaning or lubrication.

For cleaning a barrel like nothing else will, without using any sort of abrasion, I strongly prefer to use Flitz Metal Polish. It's fast, thorough, and removes everything while leaving a thin film of protective Carnauba Wax behind. (Which can be removed with a patch soaked in isopropyl alcohol if desired.)

I protect the outside of my guns with FrogLube; and I lubricate the inside with any of the better CLP's: Weapon Shield, Ballistol, and Break-Free among them. (It really doesn't matter.)
 
MichiganScott said:
I've never found a chemical that does much for removing lead, so I still use the old mechanical methods.
Click to expand...
An old bullet caster gave me this formula for lead removal. 50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide.Lead will actually "foam" when subjected to this mixture! Don't believe me? You will! Take a teaspoon of each and add a few shavings from a lead bullet.It will foam. Now for the drawback. It will cause blued steel to rust!! stainless is ok. I never did let the mixture to soak in either one. I used a wet patch, would leave bore wet for a minute at the most and dry patch it.
Cylinders are easier because you can see when the mixture stops foaming. It's faster and just as safe as the old Lewis system (I have one of those too) when used with caution.
When you are pushing a dry patch any lead still in the bore will have a dark gray color to it. (oxidized) use the Lewis screen to remove that layer and the lead will have it's normal "silvery"shine. There will be less lead in the bore. Re-apply mixture. repeat above steps.
 
I shoot moly coated lead cast bullets. After the shoot I rung some jacketed rounds through it. I clean it with the original USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER. When I use oil it's the USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL.
 
My custom pistol smith, David Sams recommended NEVER shooting jacketed bullets after lead before cleaning the barrel. It can result in oversizing or expanding the diameter of your barrel by a measurable amount. This may not concern you but might concern those of us that are looking at keeping our guns in top condition over the long haul. Shooting lead after jacketed is not a problem.
Keith

BigBill said:
I shoot moly coated lead cast bullets. After the shoot I rung some jacketed rounds through it. I clean it with the original USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER. When I use oil it's the USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL.
Click to expand...
 
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