Model 63 with trigger creep

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cjwils

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My model 63 stainless .22 shoots nicely in double action, but in single action I am not happy with the trigger feel. In single action I first need to take up slack in the mechanism with just a bit of drag. After taking up the slack, then the trigger breaks nicely with a feeling similar to my other S&W revolvers in single action. Is it relatively easy to get rid of that slack? Could most local smiths do it without S&W training? Could a non-smith like me fix this?
 
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IFF you are comfortable with removing the sideplate and removing and reinstalling the hammer and trigger and perhaps rebound slide, I would recommend doing so in order to clean and lubricate those parts sparingly with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. No guarantee, but it might save you a trip to a gunsmith and a few bucks.
 
That would probably drive me nuts! Even though I shoot mostly double action, I still want my guns to have good single action pulls. If cleaning doesn't help, you are probably looking at a new hammer or trigger, or both.
 
Here is the OP back after a long delay. I finally got around to taking the side plate off. I thought I might find the works gummed up with dried grease or something, but it was totally clean. It was also totally dry. I put a tiny bit of oil on some parts (3 in 1 oil was the only thing I had handy), and after putting the side plate back on, it seems the problem of trigger creep is mostly solved. That got me wondering, is there a particular part or two, or three, that I should take special care to lubricate correctly, to see if the trigger creep can be complete eliminated?

Moderator, move this to Gunsmithing if you think that would be better. Thanks
 
cjwils said:
Here is the OP back after a long delay. I finally got around to taking the side plate off. I thought I might find the works gummed up with dried grease or something, but it was totally clean. It was also totally dry. I put a tiny bit of oil on some parts (3 in 1 oil was the only thing I had handy), and after putting the side plate back on, it seems the problem of trigger creep is mostly solved. That got me wondering, is there a particular part or two, or three, that I should take special care to lubricate correctly Thanks
Click to expand...

Old trick from a long time revolver competitor: Each time you clean it, cock the hammer and put ONE small drop of REMOIL down into the action low on the front of the hammer. This will keep the sear/hammer lubricated and will help smoothness.

NEVER use 3 in 1 oil in a revolver.
 
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OK, I'll bite....what is so noxious about 3 in 1 oil? I have never used it on any gun I have owned but, you know, curiosity killed the cat :>))
 
FWIW, I have a M29-2 that had a similar problem. It did not creep too much, but there was a noticeable take-up to a stacking point before it let off. Perhaps some would describe it as a crunchy, notchy point. All S&W lockwork works basically the same. These parts are case hardened and hopefully fitted correctly by the assembler/fitters. I can see how an assembler or QA inspector would let the zillionth piece go like this. It's not a big deal, but noticeable. Stoning on a case hardened surface to remove the last bit of grittiness is delicate. You could easily break through the 0.005 in. thick hardened surface and ruin a trigger or hammer. The single action engagement shelf is pretty narrow. I don't know if S&W hardens stainless parts. They should be 410 series stainless steel, which is hardenable. Lord knows what they do with MIM parts. They have made so many triggers and hammers that they probably get all of them pretty close without a lot of fine stoning work.
 
clipper1 said:
OK, I'll bite....what is so noxious about 3 in 1 oil? I have never used it on any gun I have owned but, you know, curiosity killed the cat :>))
Click to expand...

If you look at a few dozen old guns notice all of the oil soaked stocks with dark oil stains and cracks next to the actions.

Most of that is due to 3 in 1 Oil being the universal firearms lubricant back in the day. It was originally formulated in 1894 for bicycle chains, to CLEAN off the road crud, and lightly lube the rusty links.
It's so thin it runs out one end when you put it on the other end!
And it offers almost zero rust protection.

Use it to oil your rusty gate hinge and buy some modern gun care products.
 
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The TOTAL "creep" on my S&W revolvers is just 0.012 to 0.015 inch. Yeah, I really did measure them. Used digital calipers to "pull" the trigger. That level of creep is nearly undetectable by hand. BTW, revolvers tested are 19-3, 36-0, 610-3, 617-0, 620, 625, & 67, a variety of both calibers and vintages. There is zero pre-travel on all and every one features a wonderfully crisp trigger. I will also note that I have not modified the sear surface on any of my revolvers but suspect a previous owner had the SA sear on the 617 worked over due to the 2.1 lbs. trigger break on this revolver, all others break consistently at 3.0 - 3.2 lbs. I will also note that the trigger weights have been tuned by me to 9.0 lbs DA and 3.0 lbs. SA with the exception of the 19-3 which came from the factory with a 9.0/3.0 trigger.

Based on my experience you should contact S&W about the trigger on your model 63 because it should not have any pre-travel and the amount of creep should be almost beyond detecting. I suspect that when you check you'll find your model 63 has a lifetime warranty and that you can have your revolver repaired at no cost to you.
 
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