1911 Full Length Guide Rod *** ADDED 2ND QUESTION )***

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1911

OP
There is some thought that it might be a cure for a yet to be discovered problem.
A good 1911 will most likely work with either option.
Lots of strong opinions and no for certain data or review.
I have some of both.
It is all your choice.
Bill@Yuma
 
When the 1911 is chambered in 10mm Auto, the full length guide rod may help smooth the heavier recoil spring's ride along the guide rod and into the spring plug. For other calibers, I've tried them and generally did not like them. They usually require the use of a bushing wrench for disassembly and reassembly.
 
When the 1911 is chambered in 10mm Auto, the full length guide rod may help smooth the heavier recoil spring's ride along the guide rod and into the spring plug. For other calibers, I've tried them and generally did not like them. They usually require the use of a bushing wrench for disassembly and reassembly.
Assembly and disassembly using a full length rod is frustrating and complicated. It is almost a two-person job. And it does not get any easier with experience. A bushing wrench helps, but not that much. After hitting the ceiling with the thimble one time too many, it did not take me long to go back to using the conventional short rod and thimble, never to return. It sucks and is not worth the hassle for me.
 
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It's designed to sell you something that's never been necessary and to line the pockets of those who make and sell them. They will give you all kinds of reasons why full-length rods are needed but promoting their brand is what's most important.

1911 platform pistols have been using the original design since 1911 and still work just fine.

But...they don't hurt anything even if they don't help...so if you want one...go ahead. It's your wallet being lightened.
 
Back in the 80's and 90's I built a total of around 40 1911's. Most were on cheap Fed Ord aluminum frames and reweld slides and surplus GI parts.

Of the early one I built the only one with a full-length guide rod, that was my personal gun. But as the years progressed, that was a desired feature that wasn't that expensive on a new build. In the long run those frames are short lived! About 800-1000 round count. When the dust shield below the front of the slide cracked, it was usually at the slide stop hole, and rendered the frame next to useless. I transferred my entire parts set to an Essex steel frame. I refitted the slide and bead blasted to white metal and Parkerized every piece (except springs). In the 20 teens I shot a Cowboy Action Class called "Wild Bunch". Loosely based on the movie of the same name, for handguns it used one 1911 and several magazines loaded with 5 rounds of LRN Ammo. The category for non-race guns didn't allow rubber grips or one-piece guide rods. (So, I replaced them with GI parts) I shot in competition maybe 15 times, that equates to 150 or so rounds, never a problem. The few thousand rounds of lead nosed, slow velocity, and very dirty rounds I shot in practice also never had a problem! If the gun runs smooth with "Cowboy" ammo and no guide rod, it will run smooth with Ball or SD ammo. So, my personal full size 1911 has no guide rod.

My two Para-Ordnance LDA 1911's have short barrels and multiple return springs and guide rods, from the factory. They work fine, so I won't "Fix" them!

The things I learned that are a must building 1911's are: 1) Good Barrel bushing fit; 2) Good and free moving springs; 3) precise fitting of the sear & disconnector; 4) Good magazines.

Ivan
 
I have both, I agree it's a little more cumbersome to take apart, but not rocket science. I installed the EGW FGR flat recoil spring system on one of my 1911 Officers I rebuilt and put a dependability package on for carry just because it was the best option for this build. I honestly can't tell any difference in performance vs the SGR though.
IMG-2494.jpg
 
My SW1911 E came with a full length guide rod so I tried a flat wire recoil spring I had on hand but ended up switching it back. I found the few oz of weight up front felt better to me.
 
I agree with everything that been said. They're useless.
I've purchased three 1911s that came with a FLGR. Two have been converted to the original short version. The other is a special edition gun, so I left it alone.
I remember some 20-30 years ago I read an interview in one of the gun magazines with Les Baer. He said the only reason he put FLGRs in his guns was because customers wanted them. Then added that none of his personal 1911s had one. I don't know if he still feels that way.
 
On a 1911, a full length guide rod is not an essential part. It does take the snakey kink travel out of the recoil spring, producing what some feel is a smoother action. The full length guide rod made from steel, either carbon or more often SS, does put a bit more weight forward, which is a good thing for recoil control.

I do not recommend FLGR's for duty or other working guns, as they limit options for emergency jam clearance.

The bushing-style compensator is near totally worthless. It's too wide open to trap any gas for a real compensator effect.
 
My Koenig PC 1911-2 38Super has the FLGR , but it's as easy to break down as any other 1911 . I have a 6in 1911 in 10mm that has the shorter guide rod , never had the first problem with it . So I guess it doesn't really matter . I have both models of 845's and 945's , if the FLGR's are important , I would think these guns would have them .
 
I once tried a full length guide rod in a Lightweight Commander. Besides not making a difference and complicating takedown…it increased the weight to a steel frame Combat Commander…getting away from the idea of the aluminum frame gun to begin with.

Leasson learned.
 
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