Model 19-9 misfire/failure to ignite

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jamesallen

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I'm trying to figure out why my Model 19-9 is having a lot of trouble igniting cartridges lately. At least one or two rounds each cylinder fail to ignite the first time I fire them, but then they usually ignite the second time around. I'm using factory ammo that I got at the range, and I tried the same ammo in a couple of other revolvers and had almost no problems (only one failure to fire in 100 rounds). As per the advice on previous threads, I checked the mainspring screw and it was as tight as can be.
In addition, I am also finding that the cylinder gets stuck sometimes. I'll close it and it doesn't snap in, or even if it does snap in, it freezes and the trigger won't pull and the cylinder won't turn. This happens sporadically, and I am able to release it after working it open and shut a few times. And this has happened even with the area under the ejector star completely clean.
Should I send the gun to Smith and Wesson? Since neither of those two problems happens every single time, with the second one being particularly sporadic, I'm worried they'll say we can't duplicate either problem and can't find anything wrong.
 
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Do the misfired rounds show a firing pin strike on the primer?

Have you tried to identify if it's always the same chambers?
 
ReloadforFun said:
Do the misfired rounds show a firing pin strike on the primer?

Have you tried to identify if it's always the same chambers?
Click to expand...
Sometimes the misfired rounds show a strike right in the middle of the primer. Other times I see a little tiny divot right along the edge of the primer. These little divots are much smaller than the actual divot left by a hammer strike in the middle. The attached picture is not super clear, but you might be able to see what I am talking about. The two rounds on the outside are unignited. The middle one may have been too but I don't remember for sure.
No, I did not try to figure out which chamber it was. I find that hard to do unless I get the chambers numbered.
 

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I'm just an amateur enthusiast, but the photo of the brass seems to indicate that something's sporadically throwing off the timing/lockup (as in lockup is occurring way too late or not at all). I can't help but think that the sometimes-stuck cylinder is a clue.

I'm curious as to the condition of each cylinder notch and the cylinder stop/bolt. The cylinder stop/bolt spring too.

How handy/willing are you to tear down your 19?
 
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I have a 19-9 and the few failures that I have experienced were all ammo related. I would contact Smith & Wesson and start the warranty process.
 
jamesallen said:
Sometimes the misfired rounds show a strike right in the middle of the primer. Other times I see a little tiny divot right along the edge of the primer. These little divots are much smaller than the actual divot left by a hammer strike in the middle. The attached picture is not super clear, but you might be able to see what I am talking about. The two rounds on the outside are unignited. The middle one may have been too but I don't remember for sure.
No, I did not try to figure out which chamber it was. I find that hard to do unless I get the chambers numbered.
Click to expand...
If I'm seeing that picture correctly, I think those firing pin strikes are way off center, indicating that the chamber is not aligned with the barrel when the hammer falls. Looks like the cylinder is rotating too far before the hammer drops, that would likely be an issue with the cylinder stop not engaging the stop notch in the cylinder. Do not continue to shoot this revolver until it is repaired!
 
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You couild use crayon or Sharpies to temporarily mark the cylinder if you want to pursue that.

However, there clearly seems to be a timing problem, and best to send it to S&W and let them sort out if it's the pawl, cylinder rachets or locking bolt, or a combination of the three.
 
Something is seriously wrong in the timing to have firing pin indentations not in the middle of the primer. And yours is on the edges!

Empty the revolver, cock the hammer slowly, see where it locks up. Cock the hammer quickly, see where it locks up.

I think in one of my books, the author was using a brass rod down the muzzle, to see if the cylinder was centered.
 
familyman357oh said:
I'm just an amateur enthusiast, but the photo of the brass seems to indicate that something's sporadically throwing off the timing/lockup (as in lockup is occurring way too late or not at all). I can't help but think that the sometimes-stuck cylinder is a clue.

I'm curious as to the condition of each cylinder notch and the cylinder stop/bolt. The cylinder stop/bolt spring too.

How handy/willing are you to tear down your 19?
Click to expand...
Weirdly, I just got the gun back from S&W a few months ago, and they fixed the timing and the actual timing seems to be good now. So it's something else, I guess.
I won't be doing any tearing down. I'm probably going to send it to S&W and see what they can make of it.
 
stansdds said:
If I'm seeing that picture correctly, I think those firing pin strikes are way off center, indicating that the chamber is not aligned with the barrel when the hammer falls. Looks like the cylinder is rotating too far before the hammer drops, that would likely be an issue with the cylinder stop not engaging the stop notch in the cylinder. Do not continue to shoot this revolver until it is repaired!
Click to expand...
Yes, I think I'm going to just send it to them and see if they can figure it out.
 
SlamFire said:
Something is seriously wrong in the timing to have firing pin indentations not in the middle of the primer. And yours is on the edges!

Empty the revolver, cock the hammer slowly, see where it locks up. Cock the hammer quickly, see where it locks up.

I think in one of my books, the author was using a brass rod down the muzzle, to see if the cylinder was centered.
Click to expand...
Strangely, I just sent the gun to them and they fixed the timing, and the timing has been very good since then. They replaced the extractor, they said.
 
jamesallen said:
Strangely, I just sent the gun to them and they fixed the timing, and the timing has been very good since then. They replaced the extractor, they said.
Click to expand...
S&W did the same thing with my 617, which is now one of my favorite shooters and constant range companion. Two of the ten charging holes/chambers were not carrying up and out of time. They replaced the extractor and all good now. Just went to the range yesterday.
 
jamesallen said:
I'm trying to figure out why my Model 19-9 is having a lot of trouble igniting cartridges lately. At least one or two rounds each cylinder fail to ignite the first time I fire them, but then they usually ignite the second time around. I'm using factory ammo that I got at the range, and I tried the same ammo in a couple of other revolvers and had almost no problems (only one failure to fire in 100 rounds). As per the advice on previous threads, I checked the mainspring screw and it was as tight as can be.
In addition, I am also finding that the cylinder gets stuck sometimes. I'll close it and it doesn't snap in, or even if it does snap in, it freezes and the trigger won't pull and the cylinder won't turn. This happens sporadically, and I am able to release it after working it open and shut a few times. And this has happened even with the area under the ejector star completely clean.
Should I send the gun to Smith and Wesson? Since neither of those two problems happens every single time, with the second one being particularly sporadic, I'm worried they'll say we can't duplicate either problem and can't find anything wrong.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the yoke barrel is either too long, the ejector rod is loose, or you have bent the yoke. Off center hits can be caused by the yoke center pin not locking into the recoil shield (bent yoke). My guess is a bent yoke. I taught S&W armorer's courses for a number of years and I would still see bent yokes from the uneducated individuals closing the cylinder like some TV detective.
 
Taj said:
Sounds like the yoke barrel is either too long, the ejector rod is loose, or you have bent the yoke. Off center hits can be caused by the yoke center pin not locking into the recoil shield (bent yoke). My guess is a bent yoke. I taught S&W armorer's courses for a number of years and I would still see bent yokes from the uneducated individuals closing the cylinder like some TV detective.
Click to expand...
I assure you I have never slammed the cylinder shut like on TV (although I may have been tempted to try it).
 
jamesallen said:
I assure you I have never slammed the cylinder shut like on TV (although I may have been tempted to try it).
Click to expand...
Roger that Brother. Wasn't accusing you, just commenting that I have seen a lot of bent yokes as a result. Many folks don't realize how easily yokes are bent out of alignment.
 
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