How to polish a nickel plated revolver? 12/24/2025

Kurt Gemelli

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I was looking for information on a SW 41mag 3” barrel nickel plated I’m thinking it’s from 1964 or 65 it was my dads old service revolver. I’m wanting to know what I could use to polish it out to make it look new again it’s just dull looking but in good shape. Thanks for any advice.
 
Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on a microfiber polishing cloth. Gently wipe the polish in circular motions across the nickel surface for a bit, then buff the polish back off with a clean section of the same microfiber cloth. It will do wonders, and it's not aggressive, so it won't damage the nickel finish. Then coat with Ren wax as mentioned above.
 
Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on a microfiber polishing cloth. Gently wipe the polish in circular motions across the nickel surface for a bit, then buff the polish back off with a clean section of the same microfiber cloth. It will do wonders, and it's not aggressive, so it won't damage the nickel finish. Then coat with Ren wax as mentioned above.
That sounds great I will get the mothers and try that first. I appreciate you thanks
 
Very cool gun. A model 58. As stated above, mothers then ren wax. It would have shipped with magna stocks. Likely with the diamonds around the screw head/ escutcheon. 64 and 65 should have an S serial. Could be your dad found the target stocks better for shooting. Thats really an awesome gun and the family LE history really adds to the cool factor.

What dept was your dad with ?
 
I once tried to removed the leading from a nickle Model 29 S&W with white vinegar and peroxide.

The solution came out deep orange colored.

Don't use white vinegar and peroxide on your nickel gun. :oops:
 
Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on a microfiber polishing cloth. Gently wipe the polish in circular motions across the nickel surface for a bit, then buff the polish back off with a clean section of the same microfiber cloth. It will do wonders, and it's not aggressive, so it won't damage the nickel finish. Then coat with Ren wax as mentioned above.
^^^ Don't forget the Q-Tips for those hard to reach places. Can't wait to see the finished product. Cleaned my funky stainless Desert Eagle up like new.

Merry Christmas!
 
Very cool gun. A model 58. As stated above, mothers then ren wax. It would have shipped with magna stocks. Likely with the diamonds around the screw head/ escutcheon. 64 and 65 should have an S serial. Could be your dad found the target stocks better for shooting. Thats really an awesome gun and the family LE history really adds to the cool factor.

What dept was your dad with ?
Ah yes, it is a 58! Good eye! I missed that it had a fixed rear sight and thought it was a 57.
 
I once tried to removed the leading from a nickle Model 29 S&W with white vinegar and peroxide.

The solution came out deep orange colored.

Don't use white vinegar and peroxide on your nickel gun. :oops:
Definitely no harsh chemicals on nickel finishes. Also, never use any ammonia solvents on nickel guns. It attacks the copper flash plating below the nickel.
 
In the past I've used Flitz with very little pressure. The 49 stays nice and shiny with just RenWax but the 32-20 wouldn't look right with the old stags and a bright finish. That and I would not want to take a chance on damaging the 120 year old finish. Some things are better just left alone.
 

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Flitz polish with a soft cloth is better than anything else. It doesn't just polish the nickel, it blends uneven nickel finishes as well as scratching to a much more consistent finish. Do not use on blued guns as it will remove the bluing.
 
Kurt, that looks to be a 4" barrel M57, not 3" as you mentioned in the OP. Barrel length is measured from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle.

The Mother's polish will shine that baby up nicely!
Yes you are correct then it’s a 4” I measured it incorrectly thanks and I will definitely get me some mothers this week and also try to clean up the grips better I appreciate your feedback.
 
Very cool gun. A model 58. As stated above, mothers then ren wax. It would have shipped with magna stocks. Likely with the diamonds around the screw head/ escutcheon. 64 and 65 should have an S serial. Could be your dad found the target stocks better for shooting. Thats really an awesome gun and the family LE history really adds to the cool factor.

What dept was your dad with ?
Beginning his career in the 60’s with the New Orleans PD and ten or so years with Kenner PD till like 1980.
 
Flitz polish with a soft cloth is better than anything else. It doesn't just polish the nickel, it blends uneven nickel finishes as well as scratching to a much more consistent finish. Do not use on blued guns as it will remove the bluing.
Flitz works well too. Flitz and Mothers are pretty much identical in terms of grit, both being super fine and not too aggressive. The reason I would always recommend Mothers over Flitz is you pay more for less with Flitz. You get more volume for up to half the price with Mothers from what I've seen, so you can do a lot more work over a greater amount of time with greater economy. Plus, Mothers is available in more sizes and from more suppliers too. And I prefer the Mothers container shape and its screw-on lid. Neither are especially expensive but given the choice, I'd always opt for paying less for essentially the same thing.
 
IMHO the Mothers is a little more aggressive than the Flitz. Be judicious. Then wax, but be sure to remove all oil first with acetone or alcohol, otherwise you will get the "swirlies." You will be amazed!
It's so close, I haven't been able to see a difference, and I've used both extensively.
 
Flitz polish with a soft cloth is better than anything else. It doesn't just polish the nickel, it blends uneven nickel finishes as well as scratching to a much more consistent finish. Do not use on blued guns as it will remove the bluing.
If a blued gun has stubborn surface oil stains, Flitz can be used VERY gently and sparingly.
I have removed stains with Flitz by taking a kitchen towel, a small dab of Flitz smeared into the towel and then basically a wipe on and wipe off.
Certainly not something I would do more or would need to do more than once if the finish is looked after and wiped down with Ballistol and Renaissance wax every 4-6 months.
It is very gentle on blue, but I wouldn’t do it unless it’s absolutely necessary to get rid of those surface stains.
I wouldn’t even call it polishing. I wouldn’t rub more than three or four circles in one area of the bluing.
You’ll see how much of the blue is coming off on the kitchen towel and it will stop you from overdoing it.
I took a little risk and doing it and it work well, but I was very cautious and gentle with it.
This said, I would never under any circumstances use mothers mag on blued gun unless it was a real heavily rusted beater that either needs a professional refinish, or a quick fix cold blue.
.
 
If a blued gun has stubborn surface oil stains, Flitz can be used VERY gently and sparingly.
I have removed stains with Flitz by taking a kitchen towel, a small dab of Flitz smeared into the towel and then basically a wipe on and wipe off.
Certainly not something I would do more or would need to do more than once if the finish is looked after and wiped down with Ballistol and Renaissance wax every 4-6 months.
It is very gentle on blue, but I wouldn’t do it unless it’s absolutely necessary to get rid of those surface stains.
I wouldn’t even call it polishing. I wouldn’t rub more than three or four circles in one area of the bluing.
You’ll see how much of the blue is coming off on the kitchen towel and it will stop you from overdoing it.
I took a little risk and doing it and it work well, but I was very cautious and gentle with it.
This said, I would never under any circumstances use mothers mag on blued gun unless it was a real heavily rusted beater that either needs a professional refinish, or a quick fix cold blue.
.
I wouldn't use either on bluing personally. I'm not brave enough.
 
It has that dull look I wipe it down with a small amount off WD40 it kinda helped but I want the true shine.
Funny, I was gonna mention WD40, especially if it has hazy patches. I use Flitz before applying Ren Wax. I use mothers on stainless, but reluctant to use it on nickel. Seems a little too abrasive
 
Funny, I was gonna mention WD40, especially if it has hazy patches. I use Flitz before applying Ren Wax. I use mothers on stainless, but reluctant to use it on nickel. Seems a little too abrasive
I keep hearing this, but I don't find this to be the case at all. I used Mothers on a nickel M27-2 just 2 days ago and had no issues and no detriment whatsoever to the nickel. You would really have to work very hard to negatively impact the nickel finish with these ultra fine polishing pastes. I have compared Flitz and Mothers side by side for my own curiosity many times and if there is any difference in how abrasive each is in comparison, that difference is so miniscule that it's basically irrelevant and comes down to what you're used to using and feel comfortable with. You're not wearing out any surface very rapidly with either, so it doesn't seem that you have much to worry about unless you just go crazy with it.
 
Flitz and RenWax for me. Flitz on factory bluing only. On either nickel or blue use Flitz gently and sparingly. These three had the treatment after being purchased used at auction. None were in bad condition just dull. 1956 Colt Op, 1974 15-3, 1979 10-7.IMG_0215.webpIMG_0096.webpIMG_0129.webp
 
Wenol, blue.

Then Renaissance Wax.


Wenol polish (Blue preferred for nickel)


• Several soft, clean microfiber cloths or cotton rags (lint-free)


• Optional: Q-tips or soft brush for crevices


• Mild soap and water for initial cleaning


• Renaissance Wax or gun oil for final protection (highly recommended for firearms)



bdGreen
 
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