.32 S&W

pmanton

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I am looking for some antique .32 S&W ammo to go with my .32 DA revolver.
When I search I can't get past the modern .32 ammo.
Can anyone give me an idea how to search?

Thanks.
 
Current production, not "Modern", .32 S&W ammunition is all perfectly acceptable to fire in any revolver chambered for that cartridge, regardless of top-break, solid-frame and any maker! There is no truth in the assumption (myth) that current production ammunition is more powerful that what was loaded when the cartridges were first introduced! This applies equally to any caliber originally introduced before 1900! The natural exception is ammunition designated as +P! For these cartridges there is no "modern" ammunition.
 
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How much do you need?
I was given some of that ammo in an identical box. I don't know when it was made but I chronographed some of it when I had two 1970s S&W .32s. As I recall, one had a 3" barrel and I think the other one was a 4". MV was in the mid 500 fps range. I wouldn't shoot at anything stouter than a beer can with that ammo as the the bullet might make a return trip toward the shooter. Handloads were much better.
 
I am looking for some antique .32 S&W ammo to go with my .32 DA revolver.
When I search I can't get past the modern .32 ammo.
Can anyone give me an idea how to search?

Thanks.
Go to reed's ammo. They only sell online only but they make both black and smokeless loads of it, so your covered no matter what the manufacture year of your old revolver is.
 
I was given some of that ammo in an identical box. I don't know when it was made but I chronographed some of it when I had two 1970s S&W .32s. As I recall, one had a 3" barrel and I think the other one was a 4". MV was in the mid 500 fps range. I wouldn't shoot at anything stouter than a beer can with that ammo as the the bullet might make a return trip toward the shooter. Handloads were much better.
Careful about hotter handloads in a top break, they could stretch the latch and wear it out over time.
 
5 would be great. I'd also buy a full box if available. I try to match up some period ammo with my guns. I have WW2 9mm for my Luger and P-38, WW1 .45 for my S&W Model 1917 WW2 .45 for my 1911A1 Etc.

Thanks,
I like to do the same thing, makes for a nice display. Try logging into gunbroker, change search category to ammo, and search "collectable vintage .32 S&W ammo", I just did, there are some nice options there from different eras, good luck/
 
I like to do the same thing, makes for a nice display. Try logging into gunbroker, change search category to ammo, and search "collectable vintage .32 S&W ammo", I just did, there are some nice options there from different eras, good luck/
You just have to be careful about corrosive primers because those can hurt your gun. Most brands from back then have a term they use for their version of non-corrosive. Peters is "Rustless," Remington is "Kleanbore," Winchester is "Staynless" (but make sure it also says "non-mercuric"), and Western will just say "non-corrosive priming." Additionally, Winchester and Western can be positively identified as non-corrosive if they have perfectly flat, silver or gold primers. If the primers are brown (in these or any other brands) they are corrosive. In Winchester and Western, silver ones that are slightly domed are non-corrosive only if they are 100 percent certainly the original product in an appropriately marked box. If the box is mixed lots because a previous owner consolidated them or if the box is absent because they were selling them in a baggie on the gunbroker ad, DO NOT trust domed Winchester or Western primers to be non-corrosive.
 
If shooting old ammo that isn't positively known to be noncorrosive it's best to just clean the gun as if it were corrosive ammo. Use a water based cleaner (such as the old WWII military cleaner) or just plain old soap and water. Clean the bore and chambers, wipe down all surfaces exposed to fouling, then dry and oil. I was taught to do it this way years ago and it still works, no rust problems. I've shot a lot of old ammo, both military and commercial and it really doesn't take that much longer to clean a gun if done this way
 

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