Important thing to do to keep knives sharper, longer and in tip-top shape - many miss this simple procedure.

Honing knives on fine stones and very fine stones can be done by hearing. The steel makes a coarser sound when the upper or lower corners of the cutting edge are being cut away by the stone.
 
It worked great, but we'll see how long it lasts. I started the stropping with red Rouge then went to the 3.5μ and got it whittling 15# test fishing line with little effort.
3.5 micron will work well - close enough. I've never heard of that brand but there are probably many I have not heard of yet. Let me know how it works and how the longevity is please.

3.5μ Diamond Strop 15# test Whittling 260711 06.webp






I have a ceramic knife, and it works great, but they are known to chip, so I stopped using it, since I mainly had used it for food prep. I've never sharpened it, but I do have diamond stones should I ever decide to.
Ya’ll have any thoughts on the kyocera ceramic kitchen knives?
 
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It worked great, but we'll see how long it lasts. I started the stropping with red Rouge then went to the 3.5μ and got it whittling 15# test fishing line with little effort.


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I have a ceramic knife, and it works great, but they are known to chip, so I stopped using it, since I mainly had used it for food prep. I've never sharpened it, but I do have diamond stones should I ever decide to.
I have never attempted to sharpen ceramic knives. I had two from my Daughter's college years but tossed them as I have little interest in them.
 
Most of my day-to-day sharpening is done on a Work Sharp Guided field Sharpener. One of the things I really like about it is the incorporated strop. It has two grades of diamond plates and a ceramic rod, but the strop gets by far the most use, followed by the fine diamond plate. The strop will get almost all of my knives to shave arm hair.
The other thing I like is the size, about as big as a large harmonica and easy to throw in a bag for travel.
I sharpen manually, but agree the stropping is the difference between a mediocre-sharp and really sharp. There is a reason barbers used razor strops for a hundred years or so. I have used and accumulated numerous types and grits of stones over the years, including the razor stones barber used to hone their razors before stropping. I also hone and sharpen straight razors and give them the "arm hair test." There is nothing like the shave a good properly honed and stropped straight razor will give you.
 
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I sharpen manually, but agree the stropping is the difference between a mediocre-sharp and really sharp. The stropping just polishes-up the honed edge. There is a reason barbers used razor strops for a hundred years or so. I have used and accumulated numerous types and grits of stones over the years, including the razor stones barber used to hone their razors before stropping. I also hone and sharpen straight razors and give them the "arm hair test." There is nothing like the shave a good properly honed and stropped straight razor will give you.
 
I once saw a man at the Buck Knife Company simply take a Buck 110 and walk up to a spinning grinding stone and stroke it only once across the stone and that was finale. I also noticed most of my hunting knives only had a very rough factory grind at 30 degrees and they were all plenty sharp enough for most cutting purposes.

So I said to myself all these years I have been slaving away and doing everything but hand stands and using a series of extra course stone followed by Course and then Medium and then fine and then ultrafine was nothing more than a big waste of time.
 
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