Looking for extended firing pin for spur hammer 686

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Methuen, MA
Does anyone make an extended firing pin for the early 686's with the spur hammer?
I've read that an extended firing pin can help fix light primer strikes.
I have Miculek spring kits in several of my early 686's and am getting occasional light primer strikes/failure to fire.
No reliability issues with factory Federal ammo.
 
The "firing pin" on the hammer on the older guns is called a hammer nose. As far as I know there is no "extended" ones made. A longer hammer nose would most likely hit the frame as it drops into the chute in the frame. The extended firing pins you read about relate to the frame mounted firing pins that were designed into the new frames beginning around 2000. Originals were made too short from the beginning.

As to your issue, remove the Miculek mainspring and put the original back in. I just recently installed one I had laying around in an old .357 Magnum, and yesterday had several failure fail to fire with Winchester primers. It will be replaced by the original spring today!! The Miculek mainspring was laying around because I had the same issues with it when I bought it. In fact I really prefer the original Smith mainsprings in all my guns. Trouble begins with the installation of an aftermarket mainspring!

You could increase the strenght of the Miculek mainspring by installing a longer main spring strain screw, which kind of defeats the purpose of installing a Miculek mainspring.
 
Nightowl, Thanks for your response. It's sound advice. However, I really like the lighter trigger pull so I'll try some different types of ammo as options and can still shoot Federal Ammo which works reliably and can go back to the S&W main spring or increase the tension on the Miculek spring as you related. I don't carry any of my 686's or use them for self-defense, just punch holes in paper and ding steel with them.
 
Does anyone make an extended firing pin for the early 686's with the spur hammer?
I've read that an extended firing pin can help fix light primer strikes.
I have Miculek spring kits in several of my early 686's and am getting occasional light primer strikes/failure to fire.
No reliability issues with factory Federal ammo.
Installing factory spec springs will fix the light primer strikes that were created by installing underpowered aftermarket springs.

Installing an extended firing pin is fixing the wrong problem.
 
If you have just a little end shake that maybe a problem....Installing a shim would move the cylinder rearward just enough to correct it
 
Installing factory spec springs will fix the light primer strikes that were created by installing underpowered aftermarket springs.

Installing an extended firing pin is fixing the wrong problem.
How can you know that is fixing the wrong problem without inspecting the gun?
 
Depends on what problem he's trying to solve. More reliable ignition with a lighter spring setting is often better with an extended firing pin.
 
You can try to put me down all you want. I don't care. I try to treat others with dignity and respect.

I have been a toolmaker/machinist for over 50 years, and built custom S&W revolvers for over 40 years. I have won a lot of matches using those revolvers.

I share my experience to help others when they have a question or problem that falls within my skill set. Everyone is free to either use or ignore that information at their discretion.

Best Regards
 
Bottom line ALWAYS-
a reliable heavy trigger beats an unreliable light one every time.
Go up on spring weight until 100% ignition with every possible ammo type then practice to overcome the heavier trigger.

I have seen competitors that play with springs until the gun is only reliable with one type or brand of ammo/ primer. Then go to a match find themselves short of ammo and have to pick up a different brand of ammo on short notice then the misfires start. Not worth it
 
However, I really like the lighter trigger pull so I'll try some different types of ammo as options and can still shoot Federal Ammo which works reliably
Those cartridges work because they have Federal primers which are the softest. I have a 327 WR 9mm competition only DA only revolver with a lighter trigger return spring, extended firing pin, and 3/4 turn off factory main spring yielding a 6lb sweet trigger. I load my own ammo using Federal #100 primers only. Goes bang every time. It will not fire with CCI or Ginex or other primers, just makes a small dent lol even with the extended firing pin. So just use Federal or load your own with Feds.
And I shoot this gun at least 700 rounds per month (steel challenge only) loaded to 500fps too.
Revolver.webp

My WR.webp
 
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I took my very early 686, 6" to the range this morning and had about 30% light primer strikes on some older reloaded .357 ammo. I gradually increased the main spring tension on the Miculek main spring while shooting about 75 rounds of Federal hydro shok .357, 125 gr. ammo with no light primer strikes in DA and SA mode with 100% ignition. I don't carry this revolver and don't rely on it for defense. I only shoot paper and steel with it so I'm satisfied with the way it currently shoots and will stick with Federal ammo. I thank all of you for your worthy comments.
 
Post 18,
It's not my gun, but I'd figure out the correct length of that strain screw, then I'd file or cut the screw to that length. I'd then be able to screw that strain screw tightly in all the way, maybe even use some thread-lock.

It's my understanding the strain screw shouldn't be considered a screw adjustment, although some folks use it that way.
 
Oh yeah, I forgot about that. But, a crane stretcher is about the price of a 12 pack of dew. I have a new one in the bag if you want it. Don't know how I ended up with two of them.

Im assuming you're just being humorous but stretching the crane is a real thing. Again, assumption on my part but just in case you're unaware.
 
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