hornady projector/lock-n-load indexing problem

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rp85

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hello;

have an early version of the hornady lock-n-load, call the projector.

the projector indexing has messed up again. had this problem @ 6 mos. ago which hornady fixed.

after reloading @3k rounds the indexing problem is back. owner instruction are not very helpful. call to hornady was not very helpful. any suggestions????

rp
 
I, also, have a Pro-Jector. I haven't used it for many years, and am working on making a new primer tube system for it (the original primer tube assembly was lost over several moves a number of years ago, and it is about the only part Hornady doesn't make for it anymore). As I recall, the pawls are adjusted with set screws (and there are two of the set screws that you DO NOT want to mess with). They can be very fussy, requiring very minute adjustments. I'll see if I can locate my instructions when I get home, and try to remember to bring them to the office to scan and send to you tomorrow, might help. BTW, if you get a chance, I would appreciate it if you could take a few pics and measurements of the primer tube for your pro-jector (especially in the area where it mounts to the aluminum block, the inside of the outer tube (especially where it has the stop for the primer feed tube), and the distance between the bottom of the primer feed tube and the bottom of the aluminum mounting block (I seem to recall it extended flush with the bottom of the aluminum block, but am not sure). Thanks.
 
Why do I keep hearing from everyone with a Hornady progressive that the timing doesn't hold? A few others say they have problems seating primers because of timing issues.
 
Projector indexing

The problem is fixable.
Phone Hornady and get them to send you their up to date manual.
I think the problem is revealed when you drop the handle and look at the "pins" down under.
 
semi-fix to project index problem

hello;

note 310pilot, sent a pm to you.

semi fix. raised the left, as you look at press, index paw to higest point. the press will jam with the paw at this height. adjust down until the press starts indexing. still have to bump the disk to complete it next step. at least i can now use the press.

rp
 
Hi RP85, just a quick question - did you check the tension of the hold-down nut on the shell plate? If it's too tight, the press won't want to index, if too loose, it gets too sloppy on the indexing. I'm guessing you already checked that, but it can't hurt to check the simplest things first. I located my manual, and will scan it and e-mail a copy of the section on adjusting the pawls to you later today. Hope it will help. If all else fails, remember, Hornady has a lifetime guarantee on the Pro-Jector, stating that if it breaks, they will fix it or replace it. If you can't get it working decently, and if they can't get it to operate reliably (I know, shipping back and forth is a pain), my crystal ball indicates a possibility of a new L-N-L AP in your future. As I recall, in addition to the primer tube setup, one of the other things they don't produce for the Pro-Jector are the indexing pawls (I could be wrong, but I don't think the L-N-L AP pawls are the same).
 
E-mailed a pdf of the relevant timing instructions. Also e-mailed you some information I dug up on several modifications other guys have made to their Pro-Jectors to improve there operation. I haven't tried the mods, but most seem like they would work. One may directly apply to your situation, wherein the index plate was modified by chamfering the indexing grooves, allowing a greater range of adjustment to the pawls.
 
Curious question, a little off topic but got me wondering. I never heard of a Projector press before. When were these made? What is the difference between the Projector and LnL? Are there any other Hornady progressives?
 
Sorry for the late reply, just re-visited this thread. The Pro-Jector was made by Hornady from the some time in the late 1970's or early 1980's through 1996 or early 1997, when they came out with the L-n-L AP progressive press. The Pro-Jector was a new model that included a number of changes/improvements from their previous progressive (don't recall the name just now). Similarly, the L-n-L AP is a much modified Pro-Jector - same basic frame and overall design, but a completely new primer system, new sub-plate, different ejector setup, etc., as well as the quick-change setup for the dies (the Pro-Jector requires screwing in the dies, just as with nearly all standard reloading presses). They have made ongoing changes to the L-n-L during its production run, as well.

These presses are quite beefy and are very well made. I think it would take a nuclear weapon to inflict any serious damage on one. I've been tempted to get a new L-n-L, but my Pro-Jector keeps on ticking, and it just isn't worth the money for me to get one just to have the latest version. BTW, I consider these Hornady presses to be as good as Dillons (and I've known Mike Dillon for many years, primarily from our shared interest in aviation). IIRC, Mike actually had some (or a lot of) input in the Hornady progressive press design before he started his reloading equipment company.
 
Here is some info I found on the net that helped me.

There are three basic mods which will "tune up" an older Pro-Jector. If you bought an older one and it appears un-used, it probably needs these mods.

1. Clearance the upper side of the passage in the aluminum block at the bottom of the primer feed. the objective is to make sure that the primer and primer cup do not hit the top or sides of the channel as the arm swings the primer out from under the primer tube. If the primer drags on this part it can be set up on edge before it gets under the shell plate. If you forcefully seat one which is up on edge into a primer pocket it will go off. You don't need to ask how I know that this will happen.

2. Replace the piece of flat stock which actuates the primer "arm", The stock bar has a 45 deg angle cut on the top which "snaps" the primer arm over against the ram as you lower the handle. Replace this with a piece of flat stock bent to the same shape, but with a longer tapered cut which will "ease" the arm over to the ram as the handle is lowered. This will require a longer piece of flat stock so you can't effectively modify the stock piece. Slowing the movement of the little primer arm relative to the movement of the much larger handle/ram will prevent "flipped" primers.

3. Pull out the ram and remove the bottom plate. grind a "ramp" into the machined cuts which the pawls click into. Make sure you ramp the correct side so that the back side of the pawl can slide out of the cut without catching. The face of the pawls still want to act against a perpendicular wall of the cut-out. As one pawl is hitting it's working face on the plate the other pawl needs to be able to back out of its hole. This allows you to get the full adjustment out of the pawls as they wear. when you've got the pawl arm all the way back against it's socket, it's time for new pawls.

Clean and lube every year. Graphite the powder measure drum

Replace all of the springs and the ram roll pins every 2 years or 20,000 rounds, whichever comes first.

replace the pawls every 80,000 rounds or so.
 
After about 25+ years of loading on a Hornady progressive (going through the very first Pro-7, Pro-Jector, and L-N-L), I have had one (1) problem with timing. Prior to that, the only time I didn't have the press working was when I sent it in for upgrade. I had a pawl crack and I am sure it was my fault. They do not get out timing if properly Loctited in (and have a lock bolt that also keeps them from moving) and are relatively easy to replace and adjust if you crack one (NEVER force a progressive press—clear the shell plate and find the problem).
The other problem with all progressive presses in getting and keeping the shellplate properly tensioned. The latest L-N-L did not come with a lock washer for the bolt that tensions the shellplate. I found that the shellplate would gradually loosen and the first sign would be primers not being fully seated. I applied blue Loctite so the threads would be tight, yet I can still remove the bolt. Better would be getting a crown lock washer, but I had Loctite right at hand and that took care of that problem.
 
The only time I've ever had a problem with mine is when the roll pin that the shell plate sits on that rotates it wore after 20+ years of use. A trip to the hardware store & $.49 later, it's bussiness as usual.
 
I'm kind of intrigued by the Projector, never knew Hornady had been in the progressive business as long as they have.

Still can remember when the first Dillons came out but sure can't remember the year. Back then I had no need of a progressive and was more then content with a single stage.

Funny that I never see any of these for sale anywhere, were they popular?
 
projector

I had the same problem with mine. I found the pawls were worn out. While trying to adjust the pawls I stripped out the pawl holder. Hornady had both in stock and sent them quickly. parts for the primer assembly are availible except the tubes. I use a hand held primer so that is not an issue. After the new parts were installed the press works great.
 
pro-jector

hello;

sent the entire projector back. they fixed the problem. after @ another 2k it jumped time again.

did the best i could do setting the paws. now i have to advance the shell plate a small amount with my thumb to complete shell plate rotation.

just live with the issue. much better that a singles stage press. loaded @ 1k 9mm from yesterday and this morning.

rp
 
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