218 Bee Brass

Shooter29

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As you probably know 218 Bee Brass is very hard to come by these days. Could someone please give me the procedures needed to use 25-20 Brass to make 218 Cases?
I would be interested in some good loading date for the 218 also.
Thanks in advance,
Shooter 29
 
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Welcome to the forum!

You can use 25/20 brass if you can find it.

I have a model 43 winchester in .218 Bee, and a Savage 23 in .25/20. The Bee used to belong to my dad, and I remember telling him to do the same thing before the Marlin 1894 came out in .218 Bee, since before that time brass was also very hard to find.

Make sure that you start with new brass since both are very thin, and will buckle easily. You will need to create a temporary shoulder with the size die on the case neck (and use a good case lube) when necking the cases down, since the shoulder of the Bee is farther forward than it is on the .25/20 case. I know that they are both rimmed cases, and can use that to headspace for fireforming, but cases will last longer and you'll have less case loss during the process if you set the headspace off of the newly located shoulder for the fireforming process. Then simply seat a bullet and use a starting load to fireform the case. Check, and if needed trim to the proper length which will also square up the case mouth. Then load and go.

There is plenty of data available in the Hornady manuals, and also there is a great article by Layne Simpson on laoding the .218 Bee in the book Varmint and Small Game Rifles and Cartridges that is available from Wolfe Publishing.:)

Here is a link to Hodgdon's website data on the .218 Bee-

Cartridge Loads - Hodgdon Reloading Data Center - data.hodgdon.com
 
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Hey,
I picked up a S&W cylinder, (md 17 or 48) that had been opened up to .218 Bee. Does anyone have any loading data/starting loads for this combination.
Thanks Timber
 
When necking down cases it's important to have nice round case mouths and necks. Any dent or flat spot will case the case to buckle. I resize any case before necking it down.

Thin cases are also prone to oil dents, so minimize the amount of sizing lube used.
 
Hey,
I picked up a S&W cylinder, (md 17 or 48) that had been opened up to .218 Bee. Does anyone have any loading data/starting loads for this combination.
Thanks Timber

Timber,

There was an article in the November '62 GUN WORLD on converting a K-22 to the Bee. It was written by B.F. Samuels, which I believe was one of the pen names of the prolific George C. Nonte.
Noting that factory ammo was too long for the cylinder, he mentioned that 7 to 7.5 gr. of Unique gave 1800 fps, bullet weight not specified.

Keep us posted if you pursue the project!

Good shooting.
 
AND--- a good method of making your brass last longer for the Bee is to set your sizer die up to where it only sizes the neck of the case. If you start having any stuck case issues, screw it down a little more, but try to avoid the full re size on these little cases which head space on the rim.

With my Model 43 I endured many case separations until another Bee shooter clued me in. Yeah I have a lot of old brass, but who doesn't for these old rifles. I also carry a special broken case extractor when shooting the old girl, as I still suffer an occasional separation. I've now got around a thousand cases, and some of them are pretty thin. Couldn't venture to guess how many times they've been loaded.

By the by, my new favorite bullet; .224, 40 gr., V-Max. Oh yeah- IMR 4227.

jim
 
I have about 280 rounds new .218 Bee new brass for sale.
email me - Mike. msontag03#@yahoo.com
 
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