Have you used this lead remover and if so dose it work good.
Or is their better out there. Thanks for any info.

I believe[IMO] that when it was introduced many years ago there was a place in the market for it. Since then there are other alternatives including a foaming style that are probably better. I believe its been on the market for atleast 15 years and perhaps many more. Just my $0.02!!

I am a gunsmith and I prefer the foaming bore solvents to their liquid cousins. The Foaming solvents (in my experiance) do a better job with less scrubbing and less work from you. Plus all the green copper and dark grey lead just drips out the muzzle and into the solvants catch pan. I prefer the Break-Free Foaming Cleaner but most foaming solvants work close to the same.

Trey Cranford
Gunsmith

Thanks I'll check them out.

Some of these solvent's may work as a final treatment, but to get the lead out use a Lewis lead remover, also has an attachment to clean your forceing cone as well.

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Stay safe people!

Yes, I've used this lead remover, and it didn't work very well for me.

Brownell's also sells a "double tuff bore brush". After years of frustration with lead and trying about everything there is, these and Hoppes #9 are about all I use for getting lead out anymore.

I do actually use that lead remover. I swab it inside the forcing cone and barrell, then the chambers in the cylinder with a qtip and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Then I use a .375 bronze bore brush that I chuck in a cordless drill and run it on slow speed. Works good for me.

I cheat! After every 25 rds or so I send a FMJ down the tube.

Haven't used any mentioned, but yesterday I bought and used a lead remover cloth. It works like a champ on stainless, but it says not to use on blue guns, so I won't. I cut a small parch off and easily removed the rings around the front of the cylinders of several guns. Today, I'll swab the charge holes and barrels.

I've used the Shooters Choice Lead Remover and it works fine if you give it time. It is safer than the lead removal cloths on blued firearms. The cloths work very well on stainless for light leading and carbon removal.

For heavy barrel leading, nothing beats the Lewis Lead Remover's mechanical means, followed by a cleaning with any good bore solvent.

Roe

For the barrel and cylinders I tried the chore boy and it is more trouble that it's worth. I use the Hoppes Tornado Brushes.

Work great and way less than the Lewis lead remover.

Hoppe's 9 - Tornado Brushes

Couple of dry runs with these and then any magic formulas cleaner/solvent.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I tried this product several times before giving up on it. I saw absolutely no benefit to using it vs. using Hoppes #9.

I agree that they would work well on leading, but I'd be careful with the 'tornado' brushes. They are made out of stainless steel, and can/will (in time) cause wear to bores and barrels...

In my experience:
* The Lewis tool works well on heavy leading.
*Chore boy, applied correctly, also does a good job.
*Otherwise, a good 'lead remover' solvent, with soaking time and elbow grease will get it done.

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NRA Life Member

No, I would not go crazy with them(2-3 times) but with the rounded over coils, rather than sharp pointed ends they should not be a problem. All my revolvers are stainless steel anyway so hopefully the barrels are harder steel.

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Still Running Against the Wind

The chore boy method always works great for me only solvent I use is Butch's Bore Shine it seems to do a pretty good job as far as cleaning goes.

First off: Something is wrong if you cannot get a clean barrel with any solvent. Size of your bullets or hardness is wrong for the load you are trying to develop.

Go to this link: Homemade Firearm Related Products
Make the Ed's Red as prescribed. If that doesn't do it scroll down the page to the Peroxide/Vinegar solution. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!

I have had problems in the past, I will admit, using purchased lead bullets and had to use this remedy. Most of my firearms are stainless though and I didn't have to worry too much about finish although, I have used it on blued ones as well with no ill affect.

One thing you NEVER do is send a jacketed bullet down a lead coated bore. Not if you want any accuracy out of that barrel again. Some have even said that they have seen 1911 barrels split doing so. I haven't experienced it.

This I do know though, the FMJ doesn't usually remove the lead, it simply "irons" it into every pore of your barrel only to come out at the most inopportune time or in serious cases, filling in the rifling.

That page should be made a sticky from. It is good information all the way around. Bookmark it.

As to the peroxide/vinegar solution, I spoke with Chemist and it is not recommended to use in a rifled barrel. It was used in smooth cannon barrels.

It forms Peracetic acid and is very corrosive.It will eat your lands and grooves.

Mix a very small amount, say 1oz of each in a plastic container, drop a lead bullet in it and see let it sit over night.

I did it with a 22lr bullet, It melted to nothing!

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Still Running Against the Wind

OCD,
In the instructions it mentions that too long a time is counter productive. In my opinion, it is a safe thing to do IF you are near the sink when you do it.
In the Marine Corps, we used hot water over and over and over again to clean firearms. I mean, hot water. BP guns are routinely cleaned with it. Here is what I do with the Peroxide/Vinegar solution.

As the instructions say, but then I rinse it out with water so hot that you couldn't stand to leave your hand in for very long. I do that right over the sink and all the black mush goes right down the drain. Like I said earlier, I have only had to do this once or twice, period.

I suppose if you had to do it over and over, without correcting the problem, or if you left it in longer than the 2 to 3 minutes, you could damage your firearm. Then again, you didn't read the instructions, did you?

Of course I read the instructions. I still would not use it. The average Joe shooter would be better off not using it. It is a excellent disinfectant, but if you want to eat up a $600 revolver barrel than to each his own,

Besides I am the one to originally post the link to the Homemade Firearm Products

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Still Running Against the Wind

A little bit of Chore Boy wrapped around a copper brush and dampened with Hoppe's is all I use.

Cheap and simple...always a good combination.

I have used the Lewis Lead Remover, Chore Boy, Lead Free cloths, and solvents with "elbow-agitations".

If there is a large amount of a lot of leading I use the Lewis kit first. Then I follow up with copper Chore Bore wrapped around a copper brush with solvent.

If there is any left after that I finish off with patches of Lead Free cloths.

Most of the time the Chore Boy alone solves the problem.

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Have guns...will shoot'em.