I went with redding 460 dies for my dillon 550. They are the pro series titanium carbide set, made for a progressive press. I am having problems with sizing though. If I size almost all the way down the brass, the die wants to dig into the side of some of the brass. It is almost as if the brass is tipping as it is sized. The brass is left with a ring around half the case and some brass will actually build up where the sizing die stopped. I tried this die with my 550 and on a single stage and both gave me the same results. It only happens on 5-10% of the brass. All the brass is starline that I bought new.

Tonight I tried resizing only 2/3rds of the way down, on about 10 pieces, and I didn't have issues. The brass still drops easily into my revolver after being partially sized. Is it ok to just size the top 2/3rds of the case?

Dillon's tech support said that sometimes this is the nature of tall revolver brass. I have been reloading for about 20 years and have done well with a number of other calibers, but this one got me.

Thanks for your help.

I am having the same exact problem. I hope someone can help.

I don't have that particular problem when sizing my 500 brass; however, I have found it beneficial to lube the cases prior to sizing, even when using carbide sizing dies. Lots of pressure involved in sizing those big cases, might help.

Not sure if this helps but I do lots of 460 reloading with the cheaper Lee dies in a turret style reloader and have never had this issue, yes it takes more effort for to size these cases........I actually considered the dual carbide ring dies from Redding to see if it sizes with less effort. I often wondered how those fancy blue machines handeled large revolver cases like this.

I lube my cases before resizing with my Redding carbide die and it still digs into the case forming a ring. It doesn't take too much force to size the case until it gets close to the bottom and that is when the ring forms. Should I only be sizing the top part of the case in order to get proper neck tension and leave the rest untouched as long as it fits into the cylinder? I am tempted to buy a different brand sizing die. The sizing die that came in my 460 die set is marked 45 Colt / 454 Casull.

What you describe is actually two separate problems, but both a result of improper die adjustment and/or inattention.

First, assymetrical sizing. This can be caused by two things. First, a mis-aligned press. If this were the situation it would consistently occur with every case sized, so it can be eliminated. Second, a case not fully seated in the shellholder. If you don't get the case fully into the shellholder there is enough friction on the head to hold the case out of line with the die which causes the case to enter at a slight angle. Sometimes you will hear a distinct "snap" as you complete the sizing stroke. Pay closer attention and be sure the case is fully seated in the shellholder.

Second, the "ring" that forms just ahead of the case rim by 1/8" or slightly more. Depending on dimensions of your die and brass the degree will vary. The cause of this is that the solid portion of the case head is larger in diameter than the die ring. You are trying to size the solid portion of the case! You are over-working the brass in the web, and putting far too much strain on the carbide ring, which can break the insert Maybe this is why you thing sizing these cases takes so much effort! Instead of lubing the cases, be sure the press ram is clean and lubed. This reduces effort for all operations. There is no reason to use lube with a carbide die with straight cases.

What to do? There are several approaches. First, back the die out a turn or so, you only have to size the portion of the case which expands on firing. The solid head does not.

Second, neck size only. May or not work if you are shooting only one gun in the caliber.

Third. Spring for the Redding double sizer die. This will size the neck adequately to hold the bullet while sizing the remainder of the body only to SAAMI Maximum case diameter, instead of under minimum as the standard carbide sizer does.

Fourth. Buy a Lee "Carbide Factory Crimp" die. This can be used two ways. First, if you are shooting "standard for caliber" diameter bullets (.451 for .460), neck size only as much as needed, seat and crimp in two steps using the Lee CFC die to crimp and post-size the case body. Second, size in two steps. Neck size with the standard sizer, then, in a separate operation, size the remainder of the case body using the Lee CFC die. You have done exactly the same thing the Redding double ring die does, but without paying $100+ for the one die!

Either of the last two methods will reduce the amount of working the brass is subject to, and should result in somewhat longer case life.

Yes, sizing in two operations takes a bit more time. Loading for one of the big S&Ws should be more about consistency and care than simply "getting it done as fast as possible". Slow down, take more time and care, learn to enjoy reloading for its' own sake, instead of just loading to shoot more.

For Dang1182,

You don't need to buy another sizer die. The .45 Colt/.454 die is correct. It won't cure any problems, just waste money. The only real difference among the three cartridges is case length, diameter is identical. As a practical matter a .45 ACP die would work too. Keep what you have, read what I have said above and take it to heart.

__________________
Gunsmithing since 1961

I tried hornady one shot lube first. I use one shot for all of m pistol brass and dillon lube for rifle. Then I tried hornady unique case lube. Same issue.

I noticed the brass sitting at an angle on the shell plate of the dillon 550. I tried the single stage press with a different shell plate (rcbs single plate). Not as bad, but still happened.

Then it dawned on me that I might be sizing further than necessary. Sizing 2/3rds of the way down worked fine and the brass still fit into my revolver (I'm only using one for 460).

Dillon suspected a misaligned press. Mine did have too much play. They sent me some new parts. That helped, but didn't solve the problem. I looked carefully at the brass as it touched the shell plate. It was as far in as it would go.

The only thing that stayed consistent was the same die was used in both presses and I was sizing as far down the case as I could. It was easy to back off with the die. I suspected that the sizing die may work all the way down for 454 or 45lc, but not 460 since it is taller.

I haven't had problems sizing other brass (9,40,45,38spl, 44, 45lc,223,243,30-06) in my presses, so I suspected it wasn't the press. I have used carbide dies with and without lube. I prefer the ease of using lube. Even on 9mm with a dillon 1050 and bullet feeder, I notice a nice difference with lube.

I will stick to sizing only part way down and I will keep the two step die and lee dies in mind.

Thank you for your help.

Thanks Alk8944 and CGT80, I really appreciate your time. Before I read your posts today, I wasted a little money on a Lee carbide sizer. I used the Lee sizer last night and it worked flawlessly. Even though I purchased the Lee and had no issues with it, I am going to apply all the points you gave me to my reloading process. I am also going to order the Lee carbide factory crimp die. As is, I always seat and crimp separately, but I would rather use the Lee crimp die than apply a roll crimp. When I resize the mouth only I'm guessing I will have to use my Lee universal decapper first? Thanks again!

Dang,

All you need to do is adjust the de-capping stem down as far as it will go and it will usually do its' work just fine, at least for .357 and .44 Magnum. For .460 you will probably need the universal decapper. You ought to have one anyway!

Hint. If you buy the universal decapper adjust it in your press and take note of where the lock nut is. Then put the die in your lathe, or a friend's, and turn off all but about 3 threads. Makes it a lot quicker to install in the press, and 3 threads are plenty.

__________________
Gunsmithing since 1961

Thanks again Alk8944, you have been a huge help.

I also had exactly the same problem with exactly the same sizing die. I spoke with redding about it and they suggested not using the Titanium Carbide die for full length sizing and to just resize the mouth (neck size)...

I ended up going with the Hornady Titanium Carbide full length sizing die and am very happy with it!

I still use the other Redding dies as I find them brilliant and consistent :-)

Hope this helps a little

p.s, I could adjust the decapping pin down far enough with this die to deprime and purely "neck size"