Bought a Redding profile crimp die in 44 magnum.The instructions state you should lube the die every few rounds to increase case and die life.Does anyone have expierence with this?If this is true I am going to send it back.No lube is the reason we have carbide sizing dies.

That's correct because it squeezes the a small section of the case down also giving a combination taper/roll crimp. I use one with heavy bullet high velocity .44mag loads only. The rest get a regular RCBS roll crimp.

I use mine for heavy bullet 32 H&R Magnum and heavy bullet 327 Federal loads. With a Q-tip it is easy and quick.

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William Iorg

I have used the Redding "pro" crimp die for years and have
never lubed it. I do run a grease rag thru it after use for
shelf time. I don't crimp the hell out of the cartridges especially
with jacketed bullets. Just enough to engrave the cannelure.
With cast bullets, just lay the brass down into the groove a
little. I trust the friction fit to provide most of the bullet
resistance and use the crimp to prevent movement during
recoil. In 30 years I have never had a bullet bind up a revolver.

YMMV, generic disclaimer, etc.

...Nemo...

I have a few Redding roll crimp dies. I don't lube them. Just keep them clean. I load 99.9% hard-cast and dust my bullets with mica. That leaves enough lubricant for crimping.

BTW , clean yer carbide dies every so often and you'll actually feel a difference.

If you are using cast bullets with a relatively soft lube such as Saeco or any of the Alox blends there will usually be adequate lubrlcont deposited around the case mouth to do the job. If you are using commercial bullets with a hard wax lube (or jacketed) then just a very light wipe every 4-6 rounds is adequate. You don't need to wipe it off.

I don't know of any carbide crimp dies, all being steel. A bit of lube now and then is acceptable for a quality tool, I believe. I have two profile crimp dies; .44 and .357...

My only Profile Crimp Die is in .45 ACP for use in my 625's. And that is just for one bullet type - the 200 grain LSCW. I use a heavy roll crimp over the front of the cylindrical section to provide easier chambering (along with some pretty aggressive chamber chamfering). It's still not as slick as 200 grain LRNFP, but if you have a large supply of the SWC, it makes them useable as something other than the first load in a string.

BTW, the standard Dillon taper crimp die can turn the front case edge into the crimp groove on the 200 LRNFP well enough that I never have bullets that get dislodged.

Buck

Thanks to all that replied.I load only commercial cast bullets but I tumble lube with Alox and then a light dusting with Mica.I will try crimping as suggested with no lube and see what happens.I appreciate everyones help.

There's really not enough metal moving across enough surface area to be concerned. But ya just might get some residual build-up after a few thousand rounds. I get more lead & lube build-up than brass. Just clean it every so often with solvent , and wipe dry. A tiny drop of lube will prevent rust.

As much as I love Redding products , the Dillon crimp die I use in my 550B is da bomb. Pull the hairpin , remove the center and clean. No readjustments needed.

Mkk41 read my mind.Was thinking about ordering the Dillon crimp die and trying it and sending the Redding die back if I liked the Dillon better.Anyone else use the Dillon crimp die?Do they recomend lubing it?

Only in .45ACP, .38 Special, 9x19, and .40S&W. Dillon dies with removable internals (seat and crimp) are one of the slickest ideas I've seen in reloading. If you run a lot of lead bullets, they will save you a lot of time and trouble.

IIRC, Dillon dies are made by Redding to Dillon specs.

Buck