I have a model 13 that I've been shooting 38 spl loads through. I'm not happy with the accuracy.

I'd like to switch to using .357 brass but I'd rather not give it a steady diet of .357 magnum pressure loads. Basically, I'm looking for a recipe for a 38 spl or 38 spl +p load in the larger volume .357 case.

Any suggestions?

Start with the loads you are using, see how they do and then increase the powder if necessary.

Hi Max,
I could be wrong, but I don't think you can expect to pick up much by a change to magnum brass.
It has not been my experience. I would think if there is not a problem with the gun that you will find a load if you keep looking that will satisfy you in Special brass.
Good luck with the 13.
Mike

Accuracy;

What are the CHAMBER SIZES?

A different diameter sized bullet may be in order,

or the chambers REAMED to make them EQUAL.

Does the BARREL CROWN have a DING?

Has any LEADING occured?

The Cylinder Gap Size?

The Barrel/Cylinder Alignment?

What the Forcing Cones condition?

What's the accuracy from the bench/sandbagged up close?

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Assuming that you have ventured up near max loads for your 38's, try loading max charges at max OAL. I just read an article that claimed that the longer the 38 round (in 357 mag guns) the better the accuracy.
I have just started loading at max length for a few loads myself.

I've been loading 7.0 grains of unique on a 158 grain bullet and I am having the best accuracy ever with my 13-3. I tried 38's 38's+P and some light 357 loads but I could not get the accuracy I wanted. 7 grain of unique is not a hot load by any means and the gun can fire them all day. I just finished loading up 1000 of them because for me there is not better load for me. Hope this helps.

1. How does one determine this? I bought the gun from the original owner; hasn't seen a lot of trigger time.

2. I've shot Lead and FMJ; same results.

3. See #1.

4. Crown is good

5. No leading that I can see; I'm pretty fastidious with cleaning my revolvers.

6. Visually okay; haven't measured it though.

7. Alignment and timing look good to me.

8. Seem okay too

9. That's mostly how I've been shooting it; off a bench and sand bags, at 10 yds. The same loads in my Model 15 rip a ragged whole, that's why I wonder if I should try .357 brass...

Was that the one in Handloaders Magazine? It got me thinking...

Thanks everyone....

alpingeo,

The cylinder chambers can be measured with whats called "A STEEL PIN GAGE".
These are usually sold in sets.
Pins are GROUND sizes and 2 inches long each.

Grizzly.com has them.

The pins are usually graduated in sizes by .001 each.
The sets come in MINUS .0002 and PLUS .0002 sets
You would want a MINUS .0002 set, so they would fit the holes easier.

People who are REALLY into revolvers, should all have sets of these, as they are not that expensive.

The holes should be the same size for best accuracy, Gunsmiths can ream them if they are not.

Lead Bullets should be equal to or .001 over the size of the cylinder chambers for best accuracy.

John Taffin has an article in this months AMERICAN HANGUNNER magazine on page 32 (magazine is just out for this month). At the top right of the page is a photo of a PIN GAGE and a CYLINDER being checked for CHAMBER SIZE.

Another way would be to find a machinist or Gunsmith with a set of SMALL HOLE GAGES AND MICROMETER to measure them for you.

The longer .357 cases may HELP SOME as the bullet would be slightly closer to the CHAMBER to start out but remember,
FULL WADCUTTERS in a 38 that are loaded just flush to the case are some of the most accurate 38 revolver ammo out there to 50 yards.

Checking the barrel size by SLUGGING with a soft lead ball is harder to do with a S&W as they have a 5 Groove set and you CANNOT DIRECTLY READ THE SLUG WITH A MICROMETER. It requires a SPECIALLY "ANGLE" GROUND V-BLOCK, not a 90 degree ground one.
A Gunsmith could probably do this, I don't like the method of wrapping the lead with thin SHIM-STOCK or whatever and trying to slug it that way.

CHAMBER size should be larger than Barrel Groove size.

Hope this helps you.

SOMETIMES there are firearms that just won't shoot very accurately, hense the saying "Buying someone else problems with a USED firearm."

They just may have sold it for a GOOD REASON.

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Using 357 cases instead of 38 should decrease the bullet jump to the forcing cone and (theoretically) improve accuracy. In real life, unless you're shooting off sandbags & using a scope, it may not make that much difference. Sight alignment & trigger control are probably the biggest factors.
years ago, I used to load a 125 gr JHP over 5.5 gr W231 or 6.5 gr Unique for a 38 special-power round for my 4" model 19. Gun is long gone, I don't recall how accurate it was but I loaded a fair number of both so they must have been acceptable.

hotrod150,

Look at the accuracy of FULL WADCUTTERS not Semi-Wadcutters, that are seated FLUSH with the CASE,
they're super accurate in a firearm with any real accuracy.

Especially in 38 Special caliber.

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I've had real good results with 158gr SWC over 5gr of Titegroup in my 4" M13.

Be careful if you go that route. 5gr of TG doesn't fill the case much.

Thanks for all the info Moonman; your point about wadcutters is well taken. I shoot them often in my Model 15 over 3 gr of HP38. My 'mouse fart' load that makes me look like a champion.

The Hodgdon page lists a fairly light .357 load for 158 gr SWC with HP38.

And Gwalchmai, I agree one does need to be careful with just about any load in a .38 or .357 load. I've purposely added a double charge and had my son place it randomly in a loading block just to see if I can pick it out. It's tough. (The real trick is getting a 17 year old to remember where he placed it...)

PS: Moonman; I grew up in Cleveland Hts; my mother still lives in Richmond Hts and my sister is in Lyndhurst... Go Browns...