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Old 01-06-2013, 10:06 PM
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Hey guys, i am new to reloading, using a rcbs single stage press and reloading rem .223. I am using .223/5.56x45 SB T/C die set. Also using Sierra 22 cal. .224 Dia 53 gr HP MatchKing. My question is after i seat the bullet and get my overall lengh do i have to do and crimping... Thanks Rick
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:15 PM
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No, you don't need to crimp them. Crimping is unnecessary for most bottle neck rifle ammo such as 308 223 3006 etc. If you're resizing correctly neck tension holds the bullet and there shouldnt be any real flare to remove. Also even if setback does occur its not a big deal, seating a bullet deeper results in lower pressures which is opposite of pistols.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:45 PM
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Hey appreciate the quick reply, i didnt think u had to but was not sure, was watching some u tube videos and a guy was reloading with the same set of dies i am using and he said dont forget to crimp after seating the bullet. So i was a bit confused. Thanks again
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:39 AM
Alk8944 Alk8944 is offline
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For rifles. If it is a bolt-action for a cartridge giving moderate recoil there is no reason to crimp.

If it is a rifle for cartridges giving heavy recoil such as most magnums a crimp is advisable to prevent setback from collision with the front wall of the magazine under recoil.

Ammunition for semi-automatic rifles should be crimped to prevent setback during the feeding cycle.

Ammunition for tubular magazine rifles should be crimped to prevent setback due to recoil/counter-recoil while in the magazine.

Ammunition for single-shot rifles does not require a crimp unless it is a straight case using a compressed charge of slow burning powder. In this case a crimp is necessary to aid in consistency of ignition/combustion.

It is not a simple yes or no answer!
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:40 AM
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The only time I crimp rifle ammunition is when it is intended to be used in rifles with tube magazines.

I load and shoot rifles up to .375 H&H, and don't find crimping is necessary. That includes AR's in 5.56 and 6.8, an M1A in .308, and various M1 Garands in .30-06.

If I need more bullet pull, I will chuck the neck expanding ball in a drill press and polish it down a couple of thousands. For that matter, I usually polish the expanding ball just enough to remove tool marks without markedly reducing diameter. The ball much easier to pull through the neck after polishing.

Like Alk89844 said, there is no simple answer.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:44 AM
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I learned the hard way. A little crimp will bulge the case just slightly. My AR would almost chamber these and lock it all in tight. Then I had to pack it all up and come home. I only did this 3-4 times before I had enough sense to ask for help.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:59 AM
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Some do, so don't. I use a crimp for loads that may see rough usage, hauled around a lot and such.

The small base dies are likely unnecessary for the forgiving 5.56 chambers most AR's have. I own and use Lee, Redding, and RCBS dies for loading .223's and have yet to have an issue with chambering.

I actually own RCBS SB dies in both .308 & .223. In a sporting/match chambered rifle they may be needed. They simply over work the brass in my AR's with 7.62 & 5.56 chambers.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:24 AM
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I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die to crimp all my rifle ammo.
Rifle Reloading Dies | Dies - Reloading | Reloading Supplies
They use a collet so you don’t have to worry about buckling the case shoulder. I have several loads that have shown accuracy improvement with a modest amount of crimp applied even without a bullet cannelure. The only down side is the cost of the crimp die, (cheap IMO.) and the time at the bench.

Jeff
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:38 AM
JenniferG JenniferG is offline
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Having loaded thousands of 223 for my Colt AR 15 HBAR I can tell you this. The case head spaces on the shoulder of the case in the chamber and not on the mouth like straight walled cartridges. The bullet should be crimped to prevent the bullet from moving in the case when used with a semi auto. Set back can cause over pressure problems at worst and feeding and accuracy issues in the least. The case should also be full length resized and trimmed to length if using fired brass. If your gun is jamming with a crimp at the mouth of the case the case at the shoulder is entirely too long. It is making the mouth reach too far into the chamber. The case needs to be full length resized to get the right dimensions. It also may be the crimp is too much.

The bullet is designed to sit in the chamber at a certain distance from the lands of the barrel and the case shoulder is what accomplishes that space. If the bullet is too close to the lands it creates too high of a pressure because pressure has to force the bullet to overcome the friction of the bullet when it first moves and is touching the lands. It should have just a bit of a running start before the bullet hits the lands. If it's too far back in the case the pressure builds high to get the bullet moving to overcome the friction of the bullet being pushed into the case too far. Check your reloading manuals and use cartridge gages to speed things up a bit and to increase reliability. Full length resizing is extra work believe me I know but it is what it is.

Single shot rifles used for bench shooting need not be full length resized and can be neck sized and trimmed for a case length of 1.750 (from dog eared Hornady manual :-). Some bench rest shooters adjust the case length and COL for their own rifles but that's entirely different than a semi auto that relies on case consistency and mechanical feeding. It's been a while since I reloaded 223. There are some things I remember that should be done but it's entirely up to the shooter on whether they do the things that improve feeding and accuracy or make a day at the range frustrating or even dangerous.

I'm just a noobie to the forum but not to reloading I hope that is taken the right way.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fltbed View Post
I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die to crimp all my rifle ammo.
Rifle Reloading Dies | Dies - Reloading | Reloading Supplies
They use a collet so you don’t have to worry about buckling the case shoulder. I have several loads that have shown accuracy improvement with a modest amount of crimp applied even without a bullet cannelure. The only down side is the cost of the crimp die, (cheap IMO.) and the time at the bench.

Jeff
I also use the Lee crimping die for my center fire rifles. The design as is said to improve accuracy by providing a more even tension from round to round. It makes sense to me, but I've yet to test my loads.

However, Lee's Carbide Factory Crimp Dies for pistol calibers are the next best thing to sliced bread and peanut butter. Their claim to resize (crimp) the round to factory specs measures true for the .45 ACP, .40 S&W, .38 S&W Special and the .357 Magnum loads. Lee also claims that overall case length is not a concern with their design.

IMO both of these products are worthy of consideration.
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