Hello,

I and new to reloading and waiting for the delivery of a Hornady LNL AP with dies for 45acp and 9mm.

Will be shooting a CS45 and Sig P220 Equinox.

I have been able to acquire the following reloading components and would appreciate if someone has loaded these before and can provide the load data used.

Berry's 45 acp plated 230 grain
Starline 45 acp brass, new, unprimed
Federal 150 large primers
Bullseye Powder


Searching the web I have found several load data's but many are missing the OAL which I understand is critical.

Also, looking at the Lyman's Reloading Handbook I only see 1 OAL for all load data which is 1.275. I thought this varied based on bullet weight?

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

I load the 230 to 1.250" OAL. This works well in my Smiths and Colts.

However you should use your gun barrel as a gauge to see if a loaded round chambers properly.

With Bullseye 5 grains is all you need for 800+fps.

Sometimes I will load 4.5 grains just to soften the load a bit.

Of course, it is said, that YMMV

Bruce

Bruce,

I have read elsewhere that there are 3 steps for checking the round for loading.

1. fits in the magazine
2. loads from the magazine
3. check fit in barrel

How do you know if the round chambers properly - drop it in the barrel and if it slides in easily it's good? Not quite clear on that one?

Thanks for the quick reply!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

When it drops cleanly into the barrel, it makes a "plunk" sound, hence the plunk test name.
Another item to watch is the case mouth outside diameter. .469-.470" works fine for me.
I've shot a lot of this bullet with 4.4 grains of WST. As noted above, 4.5 of bullseye would be a good starting point.

__________________
-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

We call it the plunk test. The round should drop into the barrel and it kind of plunks right into the chamber. The barrel is supposed to be out of the slide for the test.

If the round chambers properly the back of the case rim should be even with the back of the barrel hood.

Pretty simple test using the barrel as the gauge.

I had to do this with a commander barrel as I needed to keep adjusting the die until the round chambered properly. The Smiths are not as sensitive but you need to get the case size with bullet down to .473"
or less depending on your gun.

Bruce

How is the case mouth outside diameter set? Is that the "PTX Powder through expander die" or already part of the 45acp die set from Hornady?

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

Your crimp die should remove the bell and taper crimp the case. Once you taper crimp the case should be at .473" or less. You can tighten it a little more but if you go too far bad things can happen. Bullets can loose neck tension or you can forget to adjust the seating stem and push the bullet in too far.

Some swear by the FCD. I have one, but never use it as it can reduce the bullet diameter.

You should carefully read a good reload manual which fully explains the processes and pitfalls. Then ,when those odd problems occur ,you can always ask for answers. We have all had problems and this is how we have learned. Even after 30 years of reloading sometimes I have a WTH moment.

The .45 acp is a good starting point. enjoy.

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks again! I will do some more reading!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

I to am going to load .45acp (new reloader waiting on equipment).

I have a m1991a1 and a Kimber CDII in .45acp

Question, do I need to plunk test both barrels or just the one?

Thanks,
Jim

Well it wouldn't hurt to test them both. Some chambers are a bit tighter than others. I load for my tightest chamber and they work in all my firearms. Once you learn what works in your guns then just keep doing what works.

Bruce

5.0 Bullseye/230prn/1.25OAL/830FPS. That's been the standard load since forever, can't go wrong with that one.

Good luck, start slow, and be careful.

Scattershot - thanks!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

This picture might be helpful to understand the proper relationship of the cartridge length to barrel:



Keep in mind that the illustration is for the 1911...

Dale53

Dale53,

The illustration is very helpful!

Thanks!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

This is a great thread! Thanks OP for asking questions about this caliber. I have reloaded only for rifles and was wondering about pistol loads. I am going to get the dies for 45 ACP. I learned something new here today. Thanks again. OP- you can never have too many reloading books. I have 4 that cover most but I would like to get a couple more-speer bullets and the new hornady book. Mine is now 2 issues old. Good luck and have fun with the new press.

I found 6.0 grains of Unique with the Berry's 230gr plated to be very accurate in my S&W 1911. Crimp was .471" and the OAL was I believe 1.260 to 1.265".

Dale-What is the difference between pics two and three? Is two a little more seated than three ?

I see a dark line on pic three, is that the rim showing or more of it?

I will be reloading lead from Missouri bullets.

Thank you very much for the pic-it really helps me understand.

Jim

This is how I roll!

mmesa05,

Go to Powderfunnels.com

You're waiting on a LNL AP, this expander is way better that the Hornady.

You might also want to look at Ultimatereloader.com for some LNL accessories also.

Inlinefabrication. com has a GOOD Strong Mount, LED LIGHT set-ups, and ERGO Roller Handles for the LNL AP press from Hornady.

Time to start reading and watching videos from those sites.

Good Loading and better Shooting.

You might also give CastBoolits.com a look also. (That is correct spelling)

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Moonman,

Thanks for the advice! I have been watching the Ultimateloader videos, in fact that's what sold me on the Hornady! I also found quite a few other great videos on YouTube that I have watched and will watch several times over.

Which handle from Inlinefabrication did you purchase? Did you purchase the stand as well?

Thanks!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

I made a stand from a Dillon & Wood, I'm going to do a base from Inline fabrication to replace it, as they really look nice and sturdy too.

I have a handle made by someone before he started producing his.

I have LED press and Safe light set-ups from him.

Good Products, Good Service, Fast Delivery, Shipping Included, You can't beat that.

__________________
NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Yep, #2 is entering the chamber a bit more than three, indicating that a few thousandths either way (above or below the shoulder) is acceptable. Best indication if a cartridge fits/chambers easily is the "plunk". The cartridge should drop freely into the chamber, bottoming out with a "plunk" and dropping freely out when the barrel is inverted...

Moonman,

Thanks!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

For 230gr FMJ. OP is using Berry's plated. I found the groups started to open up at about 4.6-ish. Plated manufacturers generally say to go with a midrange lead bullet data.

My Bullseye load for 230gr plated is 4.2gr at 1.25"

2.5 OAL?

While sitting here typing on my computer MY best advise to you is

GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND READ THE MANUAL.

Specifically the "ABCs of Reloading", and Lyman's 49th Edition.

The reason I say this is because internet advise is free, meaning its worth what you pay for.

Some people posting here are truly knowledgeable, and go out of their way to help. Some are novice and learning just like you. Others are just repeating what they've heard over the years and a LOT of it is pure BS.

You need a basic understanding of reloading to protect yourself and to be able to sort through the replies.

Good luck and when you have a question don't be afraid to ask.

If I were getting a new LnL (which I did recently) I would set it up just like it comes and use it awhile before buying any upgrades/accessories. You will save yourself a ton of cash by not buying things that you will probably not use.
Like a new gun, shoot it awhile before you modify it.

2.5 OAL? Scattershot do you mean 2.5 inches OAL or was the a fat finger move?

Also I agree with the poster who said get a manual. Get a loading manual and go by the loads in there!

I have 3 manuals, Lyman, Hodgdon, Lee! Doing a lot of reading!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

I may just be a "grump" this morning, but why doesn't today's new reloaders read the manual? No offence to the OP, but every question is answered in the reloading manual. 230 gr. RN using Bullseye? You gotta be blind to miss that! I know it's easier to just type a question and get some answers, but is reading a book so out-dated that no new fellers even try anymore? Not everything can be learned on a computer forum! Show some initiave! Get some manuals and read. Much, much more info at you fingertips than you'll find on a forum (and without the wild opinions/pet loads). Again, no offence ment towards the OP, as this is one of many that is posted daily...

Thanks. Fixed the OAL.

Fat fingers, thanks for the catch. That OAL might give feeding problems, lol! I fixed it in the original post.

I finally received my reloading press and dies and made my first batch of bullets! Checked each one for size, weight, length, and fit in barrel.

I loaded the following:

Berrys 230 grain Plated
Bullseye 4.8 - 5.0 grains
OAL 1.255
New Star Cases
Federal Lg Pistol Primers #150

I used a Lee Classic Single Press with Lee 4 Die Carbide Set. I also used a Lee Perfect Powder Measure which was anything but perfect!

Can't wait to get to the range and shoot them!

Attached Images

IMG_20130413_160323_332.jpg (71.8 KB, 20 views)

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

I fired my first batch of .45acp today and after policing up the brass I noticed that each of the cases has a small dent in it. I also noticed some leading at the tip of the barrel @ 1/2" in and only on one rifling groove.

My thinking right now is that I need to reduce the amount of powder? I did a web search and found that dented .45acp cases is not unusual? Will reducing the amount of powder fix that? I did not notice the dents when shooting Blazer .45acp 230 grains.

Can I reload these or are they trash?

Thanks!

Attached Images

45dents.jpg (59.6 KB, 51 views)

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

Those cases look OK to me. Probably what is happening is that the cases are contacting the ejection port on the way out of the pistol. Nothing to worry about.

Agree there's nothing wrong with the cases. What I am curious about is how you are getting leading with plated bullets?

Above 4.4gn caused the leading. Plating wore off?

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

Reloading Report - 1911 Commander

note: 4.25"

__________________
Professional Trainer

Most of the Plated bullet manufacturers recommend using load data for Hard Cast Lead or low to mid range FMJ load data. In a secondary recommendation you may also find a maximum bullet velocity listed. Unfortunately those maximum velocity recommendations are usually specific to the thickness of the plating and the manufacturers process. What all this means is that there is a LOT of gray in the mix.

In addition the Overall Length can also have a bit of "play" in the recomendation. However, the Lee manual lists the MINIMUM overall length in their load data and it's distinctly advisable to pay attention to that particular bit of data, especially when approaching maximum loads. BTW, per the Lee Manual the Minimum Overall Length is Powder and Pressure specific. An indicator to me that this bit of data was actually a result of actual, in the flesh TESTING.

For Bullseye powder the Minimum Overall Length can range between 1.190 and 1.260 inch with 1.260 listed as the minimum with a 230 grain Lead Round Nose bullet. The Lee manual also lists 5.0 grains as being the starting point for loading with a lead bullet. Based on Lee's data your load is likely a bit too light. I would suggest increasing your powder charge to 5.0 grains and see if that reduces your leading. Perhaps a bit counter intuitive but perhaps your velocity is low enough to allow the copper plating to slightly "seize" to the surface of the barrel and cause your leading.

As for your dented casings, those can be sized and re-used without any concern at all. The 45 ACP operates at such a low pressure that I consider the life of the casings to be near Infinite, which means we will all lose our casings downrange well before we "wear" them out.

I'd consider another check. Berry's plated bullets can have the plating cut if over crimped. You should only crimp the case enough to take out the belling that you made to seat the bullet.

Two things I's want to know:

First, are there any dents in your fully loaded rounds?

Second, if you have a bullet puller, please pull a couple of bullets from your fully loaded ammo. Are the copper platings cut?

A 'yes' to either of these may indicate that your final stage is not just removing belling. It may also be pushing the bullet down a bit more and/or cutting the copper plating. If that is your situation, remove all crimping, then start to re-crimp, adding just enough to remove the belling. See what that does.

If you are new to reloading watch what brass you get for primer size. Some of it is SPP and some of it is LPP.

Depth of the bullet below the case mouth varies. Heavier bullets are usually longer but still need a tight range of OAL to feed reliably. A bullet that is seated to deeply for its size can raise pressures. By observing OAL, bullets generally seat to the proper depth.

doc540, Scooter123, FloridaFlier, tlay, rwsmith,

I appreciate the recommendations. The 45 acp Berry's Plated Bullets were my first loads. I did my best to take my time and measure every bullet from powder to bullet seating and crimping. I don't have any of those bullets to take apart for inspection. I will however, make a fresh batch. I have since been reloading 38 Special and getting more comfortable with the reloading process. I also just received a Lee Classic Turret Press and I just loaded some Hornady 185 XTP's. Plan is to shoot those tomorrow.
I will load some of the Berry's 230 RN's that I have and try a few at 5.1gn of Bullseye and report back on the results. I now have a Colt 1911 that I can compare to the Sig P220. Also, I did find the Lyman Cast Boolit data recommends 4.6 of Bullseye with a Velocity of 800 and 5.1 of Bullseye with a Velocity of 876, both with an OAL of 1.170".

Also, I have new Starline Cases and Federal LPP #150's.

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

Which bullet is it you are going to load to 1.170"? If it's the 230gr RN I would definitely go back and have another look at the data. That doesn't sound right.

Here's some Bullseye data from Alliant.

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloade...1&cartridge=35

I am planning on 1.255 - 1.265 OAL.

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

That sounds like an excellent plan to me. One thing to keep in mind is that in the case of the Lyman Cast bullet data is that data is SPECIFIC to a particular bullet. I would expect that Lyman data that recommends a 1.170 length is for a Super Wad Cutter with a "long" barrel engagement but a shorter than typical typical bullet length.

It's one issue with loading data that I find distinctly lacking. Because the major concern when loading to a specific length isn't the overall length of the assembled round, it is the volume defined by the REAR face of the bullet and the casing itself. Load a round using data for a bullet that is actually a lot shorter than the bullet you are actually using can lead to an overpressure situation. What I would really like to see is a column listing the overall length of the bullet used for the data set right along with the assembled length. Because knowing that I'd be able to use a bit of simple arrhythmic to determine the correct overall length. Unfortunately with current load data many times I find I have to assume that a 230 grain bullet has the same length as the 230 grain bullet I am loading.

BTW, with the low operating pressure of the 45 ACP this isn't really a huge concern. However, when you are loading for a high pressure Rifle caliber such as the 308 the enclosed volume can become EXTREMELY critical. It's also why I won't load over mid range for a Rifle caliber unless I can find data SPECIFIC to the Bullet, Powder, Primer, and Casing being used.

I really appreciate all the great advice I am getting from everyone here!!

__________________
Regards,
mmesa005

As scooter123 said it is a great idea to have the reloading books for the bullets you plan on using such as Sierra, Lymann, etc. Their recipes better fit their bullets.