Balance Beam Scale Suddenly Lost Zero?

Have a Hornady balance beam scale and have loaded 300 rounds using Red Dot and 158 grain LSWC. When I got the scale, turning the little knob underneath the scale wasn't enough to zero it with the pan on there, so I had to turn the 2 little wheels on the right end of the beam. The manual says not to mess with those since they are set at the factory, but it was the only way I could zero the scale.

I have a set of check weights from Lyman and I check the scale by putting the weights on there. Right down to 1 grain, it was measuring perfectly.

I loaded 100 rounds today in sets of 50, and before my last set of 50, I rechecked with the weight. All was good. Had powder thrower set to around 3.2 grains. Being Red Dot, it wasn't always exactly 3.2, but always between 3.1 and 3.4. The Alliant recipe calls for a 3.4 max charge on a .38 Special, but a 3.8 charge on a +P. The rounds will be fired through two different .357 Magnums, so I'm not worried.

Anyway, when I was done I was cleaning up and putting everything away. Bumped the scale as I was moving it, and all of a sudden, the beam is bottomed out. The arm was pointing as far down as it could be. All the way below the zeroing line on the scale. ***? All the weights were moved back to zero. Only way to zero it out was to turn those little wheels again. Zeroed it with the pan on and re-checked with 1 grain weights. Reading 1 grain. Ran a few more powder throws through it, and now the hopper was throwing close to 4 grains! After a few cycles it calmed down again.

Now, I measure every charge before putting them into the cases. Verified the scale was reading zeroed with the empty pan and verified 3.2-3.4 grains every throw. The completed bullets are now in a box with the other completed bullets, so I don't know which were done today. But I am 100% positive that the scale was dead on the balance line with empty pan and reading 3.2-3.4 with every charge.

Could I have somehow moved those wheels when I bumped it? They spin pretty freely.

New reloader here and I freaked myself out.

You really need a set of scale check weights to verify the readings. Both RCBS and Lyman sell them. It could be static buildup in the scale itself. Use a dryer anti-static sheet to wipe off all the scale parts, then check with a verified weight. If all else fails, contact Hornady about sending it back for recalibration. They should be able to do this for you.

dillonhelp said:

You really need a set of scale check weights to verify the readings. Both RCBS and Lyman sell them. It could be static buildup in the scale itself. Use a dryer anti-static sheet to wipe off all the scale parts, then check with a verified weight. If all else fails, contact Hornady about sending it back for recalibration. They should be able to do this for you.

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I have the Lyman check weights and used them before the first 50, then again before the second 50. The scale was reading dead on. Readjusted those wheels went the arm went south and re-checked again with the check weights. Reading right down to the grain.

Anytime and balance beam is moved it needs to be re zeroed. I looked on Hornadys web site and there is not Manual listed for that scale. I would call them

If you don’t find what you need, or have additional questions or concerns, contact us via the online inquiry form, or call us at 1-800-338-3220 during business hours.

Nice that Dillon chimed in. I have their Eliminator scale and it is just the adjustment foot that needs to be turned, Most all of them are made by Ohaus.

kbm6893 said:

. . . Anyway, . . . Bumped the scale as I was moving it, and all of a sudden, the beam is bottomed out. The arm was pointing as far down as it could be. All the way below the zeroing line on the scale. ***? All the weights were moved back to zero. Only way to zero it out was to turn those little wheels again. Zeroed it with the pan on and re-checked with 1 grain weights. Reading 1 grain. Ran a few more powder throws through it, and now the hopper was throwing close to 4 grains! After a few cycles it calmed down again.. . . Could I have somehow moved those wheels when I bumped it? They spin pretty freely.

New reloader here and I freaked myself out.

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This scale is NOT one of the seven I've gone through lol, so can't be sure.

On some scales both the leveling wheel/knob and beam-end zeroing adjustments are VERY easy to move. A bump can certainly change the zero on those scales. You can look at your own scale and judge for yourself. You've already showed good judgement by having a set of checkweights lol.

Check also that the beam's axle and the scale's pivot point are kept clean, and the beam assembly rests properly and moves freely. Also check that the pointer end isn't misaligned. Then zero the scale and checl with your checkweights . . . should be good to go until you bump it again lol.

(For future reference, bumping the scale can also change the position of the sliders you use to set the target weight. Since the scale will not tell you that has happened, care in using a beam scale and frequent (ie, every use) looking at the sliders' set points is advisable. Note also that despite these "issues", my own experience is that a good beam scale is necessary, and it's overall consistency is only approached by digital scales over $100, and goes unmatched until $500+).

Hope that helps some.

Sounds like the time I somehow nudged one of the sliding weights on my 505 just a smidgen. Fortunately I caught it and only had to dump about 15 cases. That's the only time my 505 has ever read wrong or changed readings.

This reminds me of high school chemistry lab.

I had a lab partner that worked at the next bench in the lab. He is a smart guy, but not always practical about mechanical things.

One day we had experiments to do separately, and while I worked on my experiment, I noticed we was futzing around with his balance beam scale.

This went on with for nearly the whole lab period, and finally I asked him what was wrong.

He said he couldn't get the scale to balance.

I took a look, and saw he had left the pan off one side of the scale.

45 years later, I'm still friends with this guy and occasionally give him a hard time about HS chem lab.

In the future if you find the zeroing foot doesn't have enough movement put a simple carpenters level on the bench holding the scale. Then prop up whatever end of the bench needs it to make it level. All these adjustable feet do is level out the scale relative to the beam so if you are out of range for adjustment it's because it's not on a level surface.

As for trim adjustments on the beam itself, unless they are locktited in place any vibration can cause them to shift. Lee uses a trim wheel with a spring that is supposed to hold it in position but as I found out pretty quickly that spring doesn't do the job. Ended up replacing it with an RCBS 502 and mounting it on a table opposite the reloading bench. As a result the zero on the 502 never changes because all that table does is hold the scale, my manuals, and boxes for ammo. Yeah, I do have to turn around to use the scale but if I am hand weighing each charge that brief pause allows the scale to settle.

Point is that I think that it's best to isolate your scale from the bench your reloading press is mounted on. By doing this you won't be subjecting the scale to the repeated vibration produced by the press. As a result your zero won't be prone to shift and it will probably extend the life of your scale because the knife edge will keep it's "point" longer.

Twoboxer said:

This scale is NOT one of the seven I've gone through lol, so can't be sure.

On some scales both the leveling wheel/knob and beam-end zeroing adjustments are VERY easy to move. A bump can certainly change the zero on those scales. You can look at your own scale and judge for yourself. You've already showed good judgement by having a set of checkweights lol.

Check also that the beam's axle and the scale's pivot point are kept clean, and the beam assembly rests properly and moves freely. Also check that the pointer end isn't misaligned. Then zero the scale and checl with your checkweights . . . should be good to go until you bump it again lol.

(For future reference, bumping the scale can also change the position of the sliders you use to set the target weight. Since the scale will not tell you that has happened, care in using a beam scale and frequent (ie, every use) looking at the sliders' set points is advisable. Note also that despite these "issues", my own experience is that a good beam scale is necessary, and it's overall consistency is only approached by digital scales over $100, and goes unmatched until $500+).

Hope that helps some.

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Sliders didn't move. First thing in I checked. Pan was on the she too. And the arm was down to the table as if there was no weight on the scale. After my post I rechecked the scale with the weights and refilled the powder thrower and threw some powder. Still holding around 3.2 grains. I'm gonna email hornady and sees what they say. Gonna shoot some reloads tomorrow. Let you know how it goes.

Oh and the table is level. Checked that too although I knew it was. Just built it 2 months ago. And I checked the zero and the position of the sliders in every charge thrown.

I don't have a permanent place........

I don't have a place for my $25 Lee balance scale so I have to set it up every time I use it. It does a good job, but if I bump it or anything I have to recheck it.

You put all the poises on zero and screw the little weight back and forth on the threaded rod. Pretty simple. I'd like to know why the Hornady has adjustments you aren't supposed to move. Please let us know what you find.

Do you have powder trickler? They are great for creeping up to the exact load.

kbm6893 said:

Sliders didn't move. First thing in I checked. Pan was on the she too. And the arm was down to the table as if there was no weight on the scale. After my post I rechecked the scale with the weights and refilled the powder thrower and threw some powder. Still holding around 3.2 grains. I'm gonna email hornady and sees what they say. Gonna shoot some reloads tomorrow. Let you know how it goes.

Oh and the table is level. Checked that too although I knew it was. Just built it 2 months ago. And I checked the zero and the position of the sliders in every charge thrown.

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You may have to wait in "Que" if you call, but will get a faster and better response than e mail.

Could be days before you get a e mail reply and it may say "send it to us"

I've been using an RCBS 1010 scale for around 30 years and have never had a problem. I do take a Q-tip with some denatured alcohol and clean the V block the arm rests in from time to time. I keep a Circle level sitting on the bed of the scale all the time and can easily see it it has been bumped from level.

scooter123 said:

In the future if you find the zeroing foot doesn't have enough movement put a simple carpenters level on the bench holding the scale. Then prop up whatever end of the bench needs it to make it level. All these adjustable feet do is level out the scale relative to the beam so if you are out of range for adjustment it's because it's not on a level surface.

Point is that I think that it's best to isolate your scale from the bench your reloading press is mounted on. By doing this you won't be subjecting the scale to the repeated vibration produced by the press. As a result your zero won't be prone to shift and it will probably extend the life of your scale because the knife edge will keep it's "point" longer.

Click to expand...

Hell, I don't know, but this is probably it. Any time the scale is moved, it needs to be re-zeroed, particularly if the surface it is on is not perfectly flat and level.

Add me to the list of folks telling you what you already know, but you did have a problem, and maybe one of us is telling you the solution.

Just got off the phone with Hornady and they are sending me a return label. Those little wheels on the end of the beam are only supposed to be moved a tiny bit, and mine spin freely all the way up and down, so there is a problem. But the tech said as long as before I started dropping powder that the beam was balanced at zero with the empty pan on the scale the numbers would ring true.

I fired 100 rounds of reloads today that I made using that scale. The zero was checked with check weights before the reloading session, and the powder level was where it had been with the digital GS-1500 scale that came with the kit. Rounds fired fine but I'm not rolling any more until the new scale comes in.

And the bench is perfectly level. Just built it and checked it a bunch of times.

As noted, if you move the scale at all, it has to be re zeroed. If yo ubump it hard enough, you may have shifted the knife points off their bearing, check, re zero, check with your check wts. My scale sits on a shelf, I never move it.

I have about 18" of space to the left of the reloading bench I just built. And I have plenty of wood left over. Looks like I'm building another small bench to out the scale on so it neve gets moved. Put a couple of shelves on it to store more stuff anyway

I have a 60 year old Redding (oil dampened) pan scale. I keep it clean, clean, clean. Between loading sessions it is stored in a lidded plastic shoe box which keeps out dust.

A clean scale is a happy scale.

I zero each session, use check weights and test every eight rounds.

The lab scales.....

The lab scales where I worked were seated on slabs of polished granite. I think there may have even been a soft pad under that Whatever, it worked. There was a plant nearby that gave off vibrations but the super sensitive scales weren't affected with that setup.

In the first post you said that the wheels spin freely. My scale is very similar to yours and, on mine, the wheels are just nuts. I adjust the nuts by first, leveling the base using the screw at the end of the base; second, set the poise to match the check weights that I am putting in the pan; lastly, adjust the nuts until the beam pointer reads zero. During the last part keep the nuts together and when you are done, lock them one against the other. This way they cannot come loose and cause you to lose the zero. From this point on all you have to do to zero the scale is to use the screw in the end of the base to level the base.

cfplinker said:

In the first post you said that the wheels spin freely. My scale is very similar to yours and, on mine, the wheels are just nuts. I adjust the nuts by first, leveling the base using the screw at the end of the base; second, set the poise to match the check weights that I am putting in the pan; lastly, adjust the nuts until the beam pointer reads zero. During the last part keep the nuts together and when you are done, lock them one against the other. This way they cannot come loose and cause you to lose the zero. From this point on all you have to do to zero the scale is to use the screw in the end of the base to level the base.

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The manual said not to touch those wheels, and the tech on the phone said they should have been loc-tited in. I checked with weights before starting to reload. It's off to Hornady now. Let them look at it and send me another one.