OK, help out a Progressive kind of guy here.

I have not done any single stage loading in about 20 years or better.

When my dad passed away in 05, I boxed up a bunch of his stuff. Since I am loading .44 caliber and don't have anything for my Dillons in that caliber, I broke out the Rockchucker and found this Redding Match grade Powder measure in the stuff.

Well taken care of….but I have a question for those who use this powder measure….

I put in the pistol metering chamber but I have no instructions and have not thumbed through the website.

if I zero out the dial, is the increments meant to relate to grains?

Some powders are more dense than others, the increments are throwing me off.

or are they just a guide and I find my measurements for various powders and calibers and make my notes to return to those indicators and fine tune from there?

thanks in advance





Match-Grade Model 3BR Powder Measure | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment

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if you're gonna be a bear...

This is it. Useful on a progressive too. I have micrometer inserts on my powder die - along with a micrometer seating die makes doing smaller runs (i.e. 100) not to much of a pain on the progressive.

The markings are indeed a guide, but the beauty is that zero on the micrometer is darn near zero powder charge and the micrometer is quite linear with respect to charge. That makes it easy to do a little math and extrapolate or interpolate settings to zero in on a desired charge.

The markings can be used to return to a previously-used setting with suprisingly good results. I'm sure you know, but it worth repeating, that it's essential to verify any charge with a scale.

As noted the graduations are simply a guide. Some good news is that once you determine a setting for a particular powder you can return to that setting and be within 1/10 grain of what you were throwing previously.

Now for a warning about the setup shown in your pictures. That is that you do NOT put the powder baffle into the measure after filling it with powder. That will not do anything at all in increase the consistency of the charges thrown. What you need to do is put the baffle into the empty measure and then pour in the powder. Do that and you will see that baffle only allows the powder to reach a specific level in the funnel area below the baffle. So, as long as there is powder above the baffle the weight of powder feeding the measuring chamber will remain constant.

BTW, it's been my experience with powders such as H110 or Accurate #5 that the charges thrown will slowly go heavier as the powder falls below the level of the baffle, so once your powder level drops below the baffle start hand weighing one in every 5 throws and tweak that micrometer as needed to maintain your desired charge.

thanks for all the replies.

I will be loading batches of 25, therefore will likely weigh all loads since this method is new to me again.


Scooter, is the baffle in my picture at an OK level?

thats the location it was placed when I dug it out of the box.

I will mainly be loading 231 or B/E and eventually Unique….whenever I can find some?

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if you're gonna be a bear...

I have been using four Redding measures (two Match Grade, a BR-30, and a standard model) for a long time and find it helpful to make a note of the settings with various weights of different powders for each measure.

With a few powder / measure combinations, settings are perfectly repeatable. Most, however, while not exactly repeatable, are close enough that only a little adjustment is required. Before charging cases for loading, settle powder hopper contents by throwing five to ten charges briskly.

Experiment with and without the baffle. In theory, a baffle makes sense. In practice, not necessarily so.

The baffle should be all the way down in the clear cylinder. If it wont drop all the way down just put a hair more fold in it until it will drop all the way down. I keep a long pair of hemostats on my loading bench specifically so I can reach into the reservoir and grab the baffle when I want to empty the powder measure. Also to keep from having to dismount the measure from the loading bench I turn the micrometer screw all the way out and just dump charge after charge in the powder bottle.

Finally, using Accurate #9 with a 12.5 grain powder charge if you fill the measure to the point where the powder is just getting to the baffle you'll find you've put in enough powder for 30-40 throws. Keep that in mind when throwing a small lot because that baffle won't do a thing and you don't need to bother with putting in the measure. Also remember that the measure will throw a bit heavier as it empties if you are using a ball or fine flake powder, so your micrometer screw adjustment will NOT match the setting you'll need if you are running with the baffle and a full reservoir. It will get you close but you'll probably need to tweak your charge 1 or 2 tenths heavier.

thanks for the advice everyone! I appreciate it.

will try it tonight but the 100 degree weather we have been experiencing, I may mount on a 2X10 and do my powder throws in the house!!!!!

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if you're gonna be a bear...

You may want to consider getting a longer drop tube. You can then set a loading block of 50 rounds on the bench and charge them quickly moving from right to left.

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The American dream is alive

is the drop tube threaded or pressed in?

I tried taking it out but it would not budge….assuming it was a pressed fit?

I did not see any allen screws or pins in that area.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Most measures have the drop tube retained by a collet araingement somewhat similar to a Dremel grinder. Look for a hex or knurled nut around the base of the drop tube and unscrew it until you feel the drop tube free up. Then then you can pull it down to extend the length. Note, if you pull it out completely you may have to remove the retaining nut to get it back into the collet.

SW CQB

I've attached the directions to my Redding 10x Powder Measure.

I don't know how alike or different they are - but I'd guess they're close.

Hope it helps

Attached Files

	redding 10x (1).pdf (1.20 MB, 23 views)
	redding 10x(2).pdf (1.31 MB, 13 views)

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I'd like to agree with you BUT

With respect to the baffle, here is a pic of it as described (all the way down).
I never take it out.
I have never needed a longer drop tube either.
Big stick powders that don't meter well I end up weighing and use
Mic McPherson's "swirl" method of dropping into the case.
"Metallic Cartridge Handloading" Safari Press page 181



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Nemo

everyone thanks for your help.

I would have actually gotten on this a few days ago, but had a issue with my backyard light that required a complete rebuild of everything.

Forestswin, thanks for the download.

I will print it and keep it close by.

Hoping for an early winter in South Texas so I can get to some reloading.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Twentyfive years ago, I upgraded to a Redding Match Grade Powder Measure purchased from a big box sporting goods store in Denver. The box had been opened in the store and resealed. I got home and found that the baffle had been removed and was gone. I tried and tried to get consistent throws without the baffle. It just wasn't possible. I made one from an old M 1911 magazine as best that I could duplicate using a picture of the factory original. My Redding now threw all but perfect repeatable throws. I'm still using that measure and baffle today. IMHO, any powder measure that does not have a powder baffle should have one installed for best accuracy. ...... Big Cholla

Sir,

You need this pdf:

www.allmantrading.com/reloading/baffle.pdf

I use his templates and .010" thick aluminum sheet to make baffles for all my various measures.

BT: Thank you very much. I bookmarked that pdf and will refer anyone that I encounter who is entering the reloading hobby. Stuff like that is invaluable to the beginner and a few stubborn old coots like me. :-) ................ Big Cholla