Shot my first batch of reloads yesterday and I wanted to post a little about it and get some feedback. I made 6 44 magnum rounds each of the same load (19.3 grains of IMR-4227 behind 240 JSP Nosler bullets) with different primers: Federal Large Magnum (#155), Federal Large (#150) and Winchester Large Pistol (WLP). The Winchester primers are listed as for standard or magnum loads.

I felt like the best primers were the #155 Large Magnum Primers, even though the Lyman handbook I was referencing only called for standard primers. They seemed to have a little more pop to them. I'm having trouble explaining why I feel like they were the best. All 6 rounds fired with no issues, the bullets appeared to strike the paper cleanly without tumbling. I was pleased with how these performed.

The next best were the #150 primers. These seemed to be a little easier shooting and I was also pleased with their performance.

What kinds of things should I be noticing as the differences between these two primers with otherwise identical loads?

I had read that Winchester primers are "harder" than Federal, but I more fully understand that now. I had one of the rounds fail to fire on first strike and the strike mark (is this the right term?) definitely looked shallow. I don't think I'm going to make more rounds with these primers.

Anyway, I wanted to post those initial thoughts and get some feedback. What kinds of things should I be paying attention to at this juncture? What kinds of things would you be expecting to see as the differences here?

Thanks for your help and I'm anxious to learn more.

You can use any primer you wish as long as you start low and work your way up.

The problem with the Winchester primer may have been that it wasn't seated properly. I've never had problems with them. If you like the Federal 150's, use them.

I too have never had problems with Winchester primers. In any event, six rounds are not enough to draw conclusions about accuracy and without a chronograph there isn't really much else you can tell about the differences. If they make your gun go bang and that's what's available, that's what you should use.

So, is what y'all are saying is that there is no functional difference between these 3 primers?

I definitely feel like the indentations on the Winchester primers are shallower. To me, this explained the one which failed to fire on first strike.

And I'm positive all of the primers were seated correctly. This being my first time, I was super careful to make sure everything was done according to spec.

I have a 1911 that was set up with a weaker than normal hammer spring that would sometimes misfire with win primers,but was very reliable with federals.

Does your gun have factory stock springs in it or are there reduced power springs inside? You can also check the strain screw to make sure it is in tight or if it isn't then maybe you turn it in 1/4 turn and try the Winchesters again.
Karl

The large magnum primers have more brisance, and may cause pressures to be higher. The non-magnum primers are interchangeable for all practical purposes.

Primers blow back out of the pocket to a certain extent when the powder charge is ignited. That is why the one that didn't go off looks like it wasn't struck as hard.

By the way, it's known as the firing pin indentation.

I typically use magnum primers only where the load data calls for them, Winchester being the exception. They are "supposedly" acceptable for either load.

I do not concern myself with brand name of primer, although I will not buy the Russian junk for any number of reasons. I have not found one brand of primer to make a distinguishable difference on target than any other brand name.

While some make claims CCI primers are "thicker or tougher" than others, I say if your gun has a problem with CCI primers (or any other quality brand name) it's time to fix your gun. It's not a primer issue.

Op. it's very possible the one misfire was due to a primer not fully seated. Bad primers don't fire on a second strike--they are duds. Congrats on getting into reloading. It's a great hobby that keeps hte barrels from rusting away.

The only "good" method, besides a pressure testing set-up is a chronograph. It takes many, many rounds fired to tell by "feel" the differences in recoil and type of recoil but the slight differences between primers and pressures would be extremely difficult. When I was shooting a lot of .44s I could tell the difference in powders used (not identifying a specific powder, but the difference between a fast powder and a slow one). But that was after a year or so of weekly shooting sessions of about 100-150 rounds...

In all my reloading for .44 Magnum I only used Magnum primers for the slowest pistol powders; Win 296/H110, 4227, WC 820, etc. All the rest were standard large pistol primers, 90% CCI...

That's my thoughts too. A gun should be able to ignite any quality primer reliably.

.

Everybody has their own favorite primers but FWIW, here's an interesting test. One test, one opinion.

.500 Linebaugh Primer Test

.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

Firstly , 4227 is a good powder for you at your present stage of handloading experence ( and I like it generally also). You do realize that 19.5gr is a fairly light load ? 4227 works fine with std primers , in loads near 100% load density if not compressed. In lighter loads using a mag primer will burn cleaner, and give somewhat higher vels. In theory more consistantly also , but I still get great accuraccy with std primers , so that that part if theory with grain of salt.

In my formative years , the wisdom held that Win primers had the hardest cups, and they are my test subjects to ensure 100% reliability. And yes indeed properly seated primers that are struck with marginal force will frequently go off on second strike. Been there, done that.

I suspect your gun is having marginal hammer fall. It might be previous overzealous "tuning" , severly worn stock spring, or somthing causing drag internally. Double check your strain screw for being loose , or having been shortened in the past. After that try a stock mainspring.

I have found backed out strain screws, shortened strain screws, and "tuned" (bent) main springs on used revolvers. Every one was represented as having been tuned, and had a light trigger pull.

Once these issues are eliminated by returning to factory spring tension, never had a primer fail to ignite.

Interesting read. I would expect the more modest standard pistol primers to have trouble in something as large as a 500 Linebaugh. I will have to keep an eye out for the CCI 350 and Remington 2.5 as it looks like they're good options as well. Of the three I'd tested, I'd already decided that I will default to the #155 Federal (they're readily available around me) and this little read did nothing to dissuade me.

Yeah, I was pretty pleased with how the 4227 performed, but it was my first time, so what do I know? I started with 19.3 grains because it was the "start here" load in my Lyman handbook. I'm going to move up closer to 20.5 grains or so for my next loading.

I'm pretty confident there is nothing wrong with the action of the gun. You can click through some of my other threads around here to read the issues I've been through with it. All of them have been resolved and I've had perfect functioning since it was last worked on (~7 months ago).