how to pull lead swc bullet??

SENECAHORNET

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All I read about collet type pullers is, not for lead bullets.
There must be a lead bullet puller out there, other than those hammer types.
Anyone know of one? I have tried the case holder + pliers, does not work because when ram is up the swc does not show enough to grab.
 
Ditto on what BB57 said, have pulled hundreds with hammer type
with foam in bottom of cavity. Also if you don't care about bullet
you can use press on down stroke with extended she'll holder
and end nippers to grip bullet on top of hole for dies in press
frame. Takes a little feel for it so you don't cut bullet nose off
with nippers. Faster than hammer once you get on to it.
 
The hammer should work fairly fast unless you have a really good crimp on em like the last bunch I did [emoji57] I spread that job out over a year [emoji38]
 
All I read about collet type pullers is, not for lead bullets. There must be a lead bullet puller out there, other than those hammer types. Anyone know of one?

I have tried the case holder + pliers, does not work because when ram is up the swc does not show enough to grab.

I've had the best success using a combination of a kinetic (hammer-type) puller to overcome the crimp and until the second lube ring just begins to show. I then put it in the collet puller and (with lots of lead to grab hold of) gently pull the lead bullet the rest of the way.

I initially experimented with this combination to eliminate the lead-mixed-with-powder mess in the kinetic puller because I wanted to reuse both the LSWC bullet and the powder. It works slick.

Russ
 
Don't you just bite the bullet with your teeth and pull it out that way? Worked in all the old westerns..............

Randy

PS. Isn't that where we got the phrase "Bite the Bullet?"
 
a) I have never had a problem pulling cast bullets with the RCBS collet.
The 45 collet works best for 44's (not their 44 one).
The bullet may end up with a nice ring squashed in it though so I use those for chronograph only loads.
b) "Bite The Bullet" was a phrase from pre-anesthetic surgery, usually in the field.
The unlucky wight being cut would be given a nice large cast bullet to bite on or a stick or piece of leather if no bullet was to be had.
This kept him from cracking his teeth the pain was so severe.
The leather strap was actually the most common device used for this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bite_the_bullet
 
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Don't you just bite the bullet with your teeth and pull it out that way? Worked in all the old westerns

Might have worked back in the old days. But with the rock
hard bullets sold by commercial casters these days you
would surely break your teeth without even making a dent
in the bullets :-)
 
Dang, I love this forum. I have been using a hammer-type puller for 40 years and never once thought about sticking a piece of foam in the end. Thanks guys!
 
I've had the unfortunate pleasure of pulling over 300 9mm"s with a hammer type kinetic puller. While it wasn't fun it wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. I purchased the house brand from Mid South Shooters supply and it came with a piece of foam already in it. At one point I did try to pull a 55gr 223 bullet and after 40 to 50 really hard hits the bullet hadn't moved at all but anything with a heavier bullet only needs 4 or 5 hits.
 
I put foam in mine to save my high prices rifle bullets tips.

I also learned not to hit it on metal, cement or other very hard surfaces.
Wood works just peachy...............

What ever gives minimum damage to the bullet.
 
If the round is tapered crimped, or not too much of a crimp, a collet puller usually works. just got to get the right one. I cast my own bullets so I usually don't care about saving the bullet. In that case I raise the round in the press (without a die inserted) and grab the bullet with vise grips, lower the ram and presto!

I use kinetic pullers for the tough ones, can't say I'm a fan.
 
Impact puller....

It takes a bit of practice but once you get the hang of it you can yank any bullet, often in one pop, sometimes three. When stopped trying to use my arm, though I had what seems plenty of force, it wasn't until I swung it in a short arc FAST from my wrist onto a heavy block of wood that I really started cooking with gas. The RCBS is very sturdy.
 
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I have an RCBS collett puller too. I've never tried one of the kinetic pullers and am not sure I understand how they work.

Does the head just hold the case by its base with an empty space in front of the bullet, and then when the head is whacked (bullet end first) on something the forward momentum of the bullet makes it pop free of the case?
 
That about sums it up unless the plastic breaks (it happens).

One trick that helps is the use of a regular shell holder instead of the cheezy ring spring and 3 piece "collet" some hammer pullers come with.
MUCH easier to insert and retrieve the brass. I threw away that tinker toy contraption.
I was spending more time trying to put it back together than I was using the hammer.
 

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I think I'm going to have to get myself one of these. What is a good, durable brand & model?
 
The Quinetics puller and the RCBS are the same, and that's what I've used for the last 30 yrs or so. Don't know about any others. I have a broken sledge hammer handle to strike against the end of - the end of a 2x4 would likely work as well.

Larry
 
One trick that helps is the use of a regular shell holder instead of the cheezy ring spring and 3 piece "collet" some hammer pullers come with.
MUCH easier to insert and retrieve the brass. I threw away that tinker toy contraption.
I was spending more time trying to put it back together than I was using the hammer.

The major problem with the 3 piece collet is the wire ring that holds it together.

Throw the wire ring away and use a suitably sized rubber o-ring instead. It's holds the pieces in line much more securely and makes putting the cartridge in the collet and removing the case afterward trouble free.

I thought 0-ring life might be limited, but that was several years ago and I'm still on my first one.
 
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