257 Roberts brass

gsfxst

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I have been trying to find Remington or Winchester brass. on the internet every place is sold out. any one know where to find some.
 
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Reform 7 MM Mauser, when you own an odd-ball, creativity is sometimes needed.

http://www.gunbroker.com/All/BI.aspx?Keywords=257+roberts+brass

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Idaho Gun Shop - aka Old Fart's Gun Shop - Winchester, Remington, Ruger, Marlin, Browning, Dan Wesson, Springfield, Norinco, Cimarron Arms, Uberti Arms, Cimarron Arms/Uberti Arms, Glock, Colt, Savage, Stevens, Fox, 1911, pistol grips, navy arms, cust Call for quantity and price, 257 brass is listed as In Stock.

For the price of 257 Roberts brass, I'd buy a rifle in 25-06 and save bunches of money.
 
Do what Ned Roberts did originally for brass; full length re-size 7x57 Mauser brass. The two cartridges are identical in all dimensions except for neck diameter. Usually it isn't necessary to even trim the newly formed Roberts brass. Use a quality size lube and be sure to lube inside the neck. Clean, chamfer the neck inside and out and you should be good to go. ....
 
I have been trying to find Remington or Winchester brass. on the internet every place is sold out. any one know where to find some.

Wow, it sounds like there are a bunch of us still shootin this odd ball rifle. Mine is a Win. mod. 70 super grade dating to about 1950 and still doing very well.
 
I have a 7X57 and there is not brass for it behind every tree. Hard to find. It is easier to find ammo and there is not a lot of it.
 
I bought a SHOT Show special .25t Roberts in the fall of 2012. I managed to pick up 300 new WW +P empties that fall and have been looking for another 200 ever since.

I think if I truly needed brass I'd swallow my pride and look for some factory loads and use them for practice.
 
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It's getting hard to find, perhaps only seasonal runs now. Nosler has +P brass available, but it is expensive. I have seen fired brass for sale on several different gun forums.
 
How much do you need ,

I believe I may have a couple hundred once fired
 
If you neck down 7mm Mauser, there is a very good chance you will have to turn case necks to have safe neck clearance.
 
8x57 Mauser is another case that can be used. It's pretty common and not usually so coveted in price as 7x57 and some others when you go to buy them.

I use commercial 8x57 to form into 256 Gibbs Magnum and 6.5 K Mauser.
It's an easy one pass neck down in a shortened 6.5 Swede Mauser FL die. Should be the same one pass in a 257Roberts die to make them from 8x57. Check OAL, may need a slight trim.

Remington cases at the present time, they don't need any neck reaming in these instances. But check if you do any neck down exercises as chamber specs & brass thicknesses can vary.

Good luck w/the 257Roberts,,a great caliber.
 
If you neck down 7mm Mauser, there is a very good chance you will have to turn case necks to have safe neck clearance.

I ran 300 new 7x57's through a full length 257R die and had no issue with case necks sticking. Use plenty of lube outside the case and a little inside the neck.
 
I suppose I didn't adequately explain. I wasn't referring to case necks "sticking" in a size or form die; something inconvenient to deal with, but it causes no safety concerns.

When cases are necked down to form a different cartridge, the necks of loaded cartridges are often too thick to safely fire, though they will usually chamber fine. This can cause a dangerous increase in chamber pressure.

Conversely, when cases are necked up, for instance, .257 to 7mm, case necks seldom require turning to thin the necks. The forming process takes care of that.
 
I don't like necking cartridges up or down; I like to have the correct headstamp on all of my ammo. You could just buy some loaded ammunition, shoot it, then reload it. A quick check found some loaded ammo at Midwayusa. Not the cheapest way to do it but some of the empty brass is pretty expensive, too....
 
I don't like necking cartridges up or down; I like to have the correct headstamp on all of my ammo. .

I load all sorts of obsolete/obsolescent ammo calibers starting from other suitable and available cases. That the headstamps are not correct is totally meaningless to me, as by appearance alone it is obvious what the cartridges are. Just last night I made up 50 .300 Savage cases from 7.62 NATO Lake City cases. All it takes is FL sizing them in a .300 Savage FL die, followed by neck shortening. Why should I care that they have LC headstamps? There's no mistaking they are .300 Savage.

I used to have a .257 Roberts rifle, always made up my own cases from 7x57 brass, no problems at all to do. Never tried using 8x57, but no reason that wouldn't work also. Speaking of 8x57, I have made up hundreds of them from .30-'06 brass, no problem. You can make many other calibers from .30-'06 brass, it's very versatile. .270 brass is the easiest to make, just slightly shorter, and I've made hundreds of them also (even though I have hundreds of factory .270 cases).
 
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I load all sorts of obsolete/obsolescent ammo calibers starting from other suitable and available cases. That the headstamps are not correct is totally meaningless to me, as by appearance alone it is obvious what the cartridges are. Just last night I made up 50 .300 Savage cases from 7.62 NATO Lake City cases. All it takes is FL sizing them in a .300 Savage FL die, followed by neck shortening. Why should I care that they have LC headstamps? There's no mistaking they are .300 Savage.

I used to have a .257 Roberts rifle, always made up my own cases from 7x57 brass, no problems at all to do. Never tried using 8x57, but no reason that wouldn't work also. Speaking of 8x57, I have made up hundreds of them from .30-'06 brass, no problem.


I have both a 30-30 and a 32 Special. It is not so obvious which is which and it would be very easy to get them mixed up if I still made 32 Special (hard to find brass) from 30-30 (easy to find brass). I understand the process of necking up and have in fact necked up 30-30's to get 32 Specials but after I was given a 30-30, I decided to pull all mis-marked 32 Specials and use the correct brass.
 
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I suppose I didn't adequately explain. I wasn't referring to case necks "sticking" in a size or form die; something inconvenient to deal with, but it causes no safety concerns.

When cases are necked down to form a different cartridge, the necks of loaded cartridges are often too thick to safely fire, though they will usually chamber fine. This can cause a dangerous increase in chamber pressure.

Conversely, when cases are necked up, for instance, .257 to 7mm, case necks seldom require turning to thin the necks. The forming process takes care of that.

Maybe I didn't explain well enough. If they chamber after sizing, they will shoot just fine. Then I neck size em after initial firing. Never turned a neck to fit a chamber.
 
Maybe I didn't explain well enough. If they chamber after sizing, they will shoot just fine. Then I neck size em after initial firing. Never turned a neck to fit a chamber.

More or less true. I do not re-form Federal .308 cases to make .300 Savage brass as, for some reason, I have found that Federal .308 cases do require a bit of neck wall thinning. I have never had that problem with any other .308/7.62 NATO case brand, even military, and I have used them all. I used to make up 6.5x55mm Swedish cases from .30-'06 brass (there is a slight problem with doing that conversion as the .30-'06 base is slightly too small in diameter for the 6.5x55, but it still works OK), and the 6.5 neck walls must be thinned. I have also resized 8mm Mauser cases to 7mm Mauser, and never had any problems with excessive neck diameter. I had a large quantity of 8mm Turkish military ammo which seemed excessively hot loads to me. I pulled the 8mm bullets, resized the cases in a 7mm FL die, and re-loaded with 7mm bullets, using the same powder charge used in the 8mm ammo but reduced by 20%. They worked fine without any neck thinning required.
 
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Brownells has some Nosler brass but it is pretty pricey, seems like buying factory ammo and reloading it would be more cost effective.
 

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