Trim 460 S&W Brass or Don't Bother?

sparkyvega

sparkyvega

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I'm not new to reloading, but am fairly new to loading for the 460 S&W Magnum. I by no means am an expert, nor do I already know it all; I continue to learn in almost every reloading session. I have noticed that my 460 brass is starting to exceed the case OAL of 1.800”. I don't recall ever exceeding case OAL for any other handgun brass I shoot, thus my question. Note that I use the Lee collet crimp die for the 460. Is there any need to trim the over-length 460 brass? I'm pretty sure the collet style crimp die mitigates the need to trim regardless if the projectiles have a crimp groove, but I'm inquiring for confirmation / reassurance.
 
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I like to trim my straight walled rimmed pistol cases when the OAL of a batch (yes, I try to keep my brass separated into batches for straight wall rimmed cases) vary too much, in order to get consistent crimps. And while I'm at it, I trim back to the suggested trim length. The brass that gives me the most problems with case growth are 357 Mag and 44 Mag. I don't have anything in 460 S&W, but it's a high pressure cartridge so it should behave like the 2 I have observed doing this.
 
I load some super hot loads in 44 mag and 45 Colt, and never had a need to trim brass. I would look at your chamber's dimensions and how much your brand of dies works the brass.

Since you current need and question is about already too long brass: Definitely trim all the brass to the same length!

I would think the easiest way would be with a Lee case trimmer, but only for brass of one brand (they gauge off the inside of the case web-where almost all others are gauged from the outside base of the rim.)

Ivan
 
The 460 peak pressure is 65k I believe so it is likely to stretch. This pressure is probably about 20k higher than the 44 mag cartridge.
Went to the SAAMI site.
357 35k
44 mag 36k
460 65k
 
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You never mentioned what the case length was? Did you resize them first?


A tiny bit doesn't matter in a revolver. But if you want resize them all, trim once and forget about it.
 
If the brass OAL already exceeds max specs, I would definitely trim the brass. Could put you in an over pressure situation and you don't want that.
 
Every piece of brass I load, except for 380ACP/45ACP, is trimmed on my old Lyman Universal Trimmer.
Rifle and Handgun.
380/45 are monitored as trimmed as necessary.

Otherwise my screen name might apply. :eek:

I scoop and weigh and handprime.
The only time I'm in a hurry is to get to my fishing spots and get my lines wet without missing the tide.
FHP has been kind. :rolleyes:

Consistency
Repeatability
One ragged hole.... hopefully.
Just following orders as taught by SACs best decades ago. ;)

Green grips on my Gold Cup today.
I'll take all the help available. :D

I keep my brass clean but don't tumble.
Ultrasonic when necessary.

have fun
stay safe.
RT
 
Take Care

When I was new to reloading I thought I had to trim everything. It's just not necessary where case mouth crimping or chambering is not dependent on OAL. I split many a case neck by overzealous trimming and chamfering, even with low pressure .38 Spl target loads. Hand operated chamfering tools are the problem. It is very easy to end up with sharp edged case mouths. Those skinny edges are stress risers and split very easily. Trim if you have to adn 460 S&W reloads might be one of those instances, but take care not to sharpen the case mouth edges into a circular punch.
 
Personally I trim 460 and 500 brass. The crimp is important to prevent bullet creep and potentially tying up the revolvers in these calibers.

I don't recommend the use of Lee collet crimp die as I believe it overworks the brass and shortens it life. I do own one and believe they are unnecessary if the parts of reloading process have been done correctly.

As other have pointed out the operating pressure of this cartridge does effect brass and coupled with the length does result in brass length changing.

For a roll crimp to be consistent requires all the case be the same length.

In 460 I use Hornady, Redding, and RCBS roll crimp dies and find them all to perform well when adjusted correctly.

I have yet had a set of Lee dies in 460 work to my satisfaction (I have tried 3 sets).

Sometime this year I will surpass the 75,000 round point reloading 460 S&W cartridge.

be safe
Ruggy
 
ruggyh said:
Sometime this year I will surpass the 75,000 round point reloading 460 S&W cartridge.



be safe

Ruggy
Click to expand...



Wow at 300 gr that’s over a metric ton of lead down range!
Now that’s out of my system back to topic - I trim my revolver brass for consistent crimp (even 10mm for my 610)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If you run rimmed brass hot it doess stretch. I use a conventional roll crimp, so I like my brass uniform for max loads.
 
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Thanks for all the responses. I will shoot until brass exceeds SAAMI OAL and then trim...hopefully only once.
 
I length trim all cylindrical brass from 44spl to 444 after firing once and then resizing to try and uniform the diameter before the length trim.
All brass is kept in the 50 round batches I bought them or organized them in originally.
Have only had to re-trim the length on a couple of well used batches.
I only use the Lee collet crimp on the 444 when there is no cannelure under the rim.
The rest get a Redding profile crimp in the cannelure or taper crimp where there is none.
The more recoil, the more crimp you need (to a point).
Look at some commercial ammo to see how much they apply.
You might be surprised at how little they sometimes use.
 

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To trim or not to trim.
Crimp consistency is part of the formula.

Will forward a request to a VIT robotics engineer to prototype a brass mouth sensing, auto-adjusting crimp die attachment. :cool:
 
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