Primer impact reqirements ?

[Naphtali]

All of my carry guns are 357 Magnum revolvers - one "J" frame and two SP101s. My carry ammunition has been Remington HTR 38 Special +P 158-grain LSWCHP.

Reloading to replicate this ammunition in practice form, I intend to use TiteGroup.

I also intend to create HEAVY 357 Magnum 180-200 grain hard cast bullets with gas checks for my long-barreled SP101 using H110.

TiteGroup will ignite reliably with standard small pistol primers. H110 requires magnum small pistol primers.

Both SP101s need action jobs to smooth their workings and reduce double action "pulls." Emphasis will be to render the revolvers for best use of Remington HTR 38 Speical +P ammunition rather than 357 Magnum handloads.

Anticipating first-class gunsmithing that will have furnished reliable smooth functioning, will primer impact now be unreliable with magnum primers?

Will I be able to use magnum small pistol primers for all handloading - that is, will required primer impact for magnum primers require the SP101s (and possibly "J" frame) to need heavier double action "pulls" than were the revolvers using only the Remington ammunition?

[ArchAngelCD]

It's impossible for anyone here to tell you if the work done on your revolvers effected their ability to ignite a primer. I would say if they now have no problems with factory ammo you should be fine. In reality you need to try for yourself and see. Good luck.

[OKFC05]

The fundamental birisance of standard and magnum primers within a brand is not significantly different. Brands differ.
The difference between rifle and pistol primers is significant.

IMHO, if you intend to use any and all primers and commercial ammunition in a carry revolver, lowering the double action pull significantly (below about 10#) is asking for problems sooner or later.
If somebody comes along and says he uses X springs at Y pull, that does not mean YOURS will work.

[bigggbbruce]

^ Yep.. you wont know until you pull the trigger on different primers.

[bigggbbruce]

The only changes I make to a carry revolver are grips and any gritty feel in the action.

Springs are not changed.

A harder pull will not be noticed when used for SD. But a round not going off will.

[Pisgah]

In my opinion, backed only by decades of trial-and-error experience, when it comes to reliability reducing the pull weight by anything more than smoothing the action is a crapshoot, particularly in small-frame revolvers. A smooth if somewhat heavy pull can be managed perfectly well by the shooter who applies himself to the task, but a lighter hammer blow can create a situation completely unacceptable in a defensive gun.

[bluetopper]

In a Smith, changing to a lighter trigger rebound spring plays no part in how hard the hammer hits the primer......in my shade tree gunsmithing non-professional opinion.

[DWalt]

Unless someone is screwing around with the hammer spring, all small pistol (and small rifle) primers should be 100% reliable. I use mainly small rifle primers in reloading .38 Super, .38 Special, and .357 Magnum. Has always worked for me without fail in all guns. Best way is to make up a number of primed cases and see if all of them pop. Try small rifle primers if you have them.

[gwpercle]

A first class gunsmith does not simply drop in springs and call it a proper trigger job. He will also insure proper functioning. A gun that misfires is not acceptable.
Now the gunsmith may tell you that to have reliable functioning, the pull weight will have to be at least XX lbs.
I can recommend Clark's Custom Guns for trigger work. They have different action jobs for target guns , hunting and self defense guns.
Founded in 1950 and their work is excellent !
Gary